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Starting off new aquarium - tips

Jeffrey

Seedling
Joined
13 Feb 2017
Messages
11
Location
Roosendaal
Hello All,

I'm planning a new Nano Cube 60L aquarium, including a CO2 system on a 300L Eheim pump.
I've been looking on the internet for a lot information, I'm however kinda stuck on some things.
Starting off:
  1. Is a special substrate required for the plants I want (see below)? If so, what substrate is needed? Currently I have a substrate which hasn't have any fertilizer in it (had it hanging around).
  2. Does the plant combination I chose, seem like a logical choice? Are there any issues with this plant combination (or plants in specific)?
  3. What kind off lighting is needed? I've read 50% of the total volume of the tank (in litres); meaning 30W?
  4. Do I need, in addition to the substrate and CO2, some plant growth fluid?
  5. How much CO2 is required?
Plants that are foreseen:

American Eleocharis - easy
Anubias sp Petite - easy
Hydrocotyle tripartita "Japan" - medium
Fissidens and Riccia for moss - advanced/medium
Eleocharis Parvula - easy
Eleocharis Parvula mini - medium
Staurogyne repens - easy
Eleocharis Acicularis - medium
Nymphoides hydrophylla 'Taiwan' - easy

Hoping that you guys could help me get forward!
Thanks in advance.

Kind regards,

Jeff
 
Last edited:
Check this site http://tropica.com/en/plants/
They have a set up guide as well and you should check out the tutorial section here, very good articles for beginners that's where I started.
Thanks! I've checked the site tropica.com and updated my list of plants...I eliminated the "advanced" ones.
The turorial section is very usefull, however I can't seem to make a choice concering to use a aquasoil with additional EI or just the EI on its own...
Is 't necessary for the plants I want to use?
 
If your tank is going to be injected you will need to dose fertz as well as using aquasoil, otherwise you will probably run in to difficulties with deficiencies and algae somewhere down the line.

Regardless, I think it makes good horticultural sense to dose anyway...
Some plants prefer to uptake certain nutrients through leaves as well as roots, and...
Excess nutrients in the water column will be absorbed by aquasoil (it has a high CEC or cation exchange capacity) where it will in turn be made available to plant roots.
 
If your tank is going to be injected you will need to dose fertz as well as using aquasoil, otherwise you will probably run in to difficulties with deficiencies and algae somewhere down the line.

Regardless, I think it makes good horticultural sense to dose anyway...
Some plants prefer to uptake certain nutrients through leaves as well as roots, and...
Excess nutrients in the water column will be absorbed by aquasoil (it has a high CEC or cation exchange capacity) where it will in turn be made available to plant roots.

I just purchased some aquasoil (I'll top it off with some fine gravel, 1/2cm) from Tropica and the Specialized Fertiliser.
Hoping I'll get good results with that stuff...

Also bought some new lights (2x Chihiros C-serieus) 18 Watts each with dimmers.
Is this to much...or is it good?
 
Also bought some new lights (2x Chihiros C-serieus) 18 Watts each with dimmers.
Is this to much...or is it good?

You have 2 and they come with dimmers so you have many combinations to work with. Gives you more control I guess. First sign of problems you could dim them both, or one or even knock one off.
 
You have 2 and they come with dimmers so you have many combinations to work with. Gives you more control I guess. First sign of problems you could dim them both, or one or even knock one off.
Thanks for the answer!

I've got yet another question concerning dry starting this tank with the aquasoil.

The aquasoil states that frequently refreshments of the water are needed, however with a dry start, one only adds a tiny amount of water (few cm). So refreshing that water isn't possible? Is it a problem if the water isn't being refreshed for a few weeks (for the dry start).
 
Hi all,
The aquasoil states that frequently refreshments of the water are needed, however with a dry start, one only adds a tiny amount of water (few cm). So refreshing that water isn't possible? Is it a problem if the water isn't being refreshed for a few weeks (for the dry start)
It isn't a product I've used, but the potential problem would be ammonia burn to roots or leaves. If the aquasoil is capped that should reduce that as a worry.

Have a look at <"Problems with dry start.....">.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all, It isn't a product I've used, but the potential problem would be ammonia burn to roots or leaves. If the aquasoil is capped that should reduce that as a worry.

Have a look at <"Problems with dry start.....">.

cheers Darrel
Thanks. I only want to dry start cause I want to use the "Blender method" for some mosses (on wood and stones). Could it be possible to only spray the thank twice a day, instead of adding a few cm's of water? As long as the plants are moist...it should be good?
 
Thanks. I only want to dry start cause I want to use the "Blender method" for some mosses (on wood and stones). Could it be possible to only spray the thank twice a day, instead of adding a few cm's of water? As long as the plants are moist...it should be good?

Just been thought my first DSM and 8 weeks worth . Worked a treat. found if too moist got mould which was easy to retard by airing tank. Its a balance between keeping the AS moist but not wet. Didnt have any high areas so relatively easy to keep carpet moist. Pics in my journal here
 
Hi all,
Thanks. I only want to dry start cause I want to use the "Blender method" for some mosses (on wood and stones).
You can just spray the wood and stones. Any ammonia issue would just effect the carpet plants rooted in the aquasoil.

In a drier substrate the ammonia levels are likely to be higher (you have less volume of water for it to dissolve into) and ammonia is very soluble in water.

Personally I'd be tempted to try some water changes every couple of days by carefully adding some extra water to the tank, to give you a couple of centimeters covering the soil, leaving it a couple of hours and then syphoning the excess water out to leave the water level just below the surface again.

cheers Darrel
 
As me and linux have fallen out...

Is a special substrate required for the plants I want (see below)? If so, what substrate is needed? Currently I have a substrate which hasn't have any fertilizer in it (had it hanging around).

I'd say yes. Doesn't have to be expensive though.

Does the plant combination I chose, seem like a logical choice? Are there any issues with this plant combination (or plants in specific)?

Subjective, they're not from the same locality, or continents in some cases. I've kept all of these species, Fissindens is basically bomb proof, so that'll be fine, riccia a little more picky. My only thought is you don't seem to have any thing that goes to around 15cm, just to give that gradual size increase. Nymphoides hydrophylla 'Taiwan' has easily hit 14 inches in one of my tanks.

What kind off lighting is needed? I've read 50% of the total volume of the tank (in litres); meaning 30W?

Why no try a kessil A80?

Do I need, in addition to the substrate and CO2, some plant growth fluid?

In a bigger tank, with good filtartion I think you'd get away with all these in a low tech. But that said, if you're looking to add ferts, then you're going to need to add some CO2.

How much CO2 is required?

start of low, and go from there, a bubble every other second or something.
 
Thanks all!
I've chosen for the Tropica Aquasoil & Special Fertiliser from Tropica, this with some CO2 added.
Working on my hardscape & setup:
Aquarium and custom "cabinet":

img_0767.jpg


Setup:

img_0769.jpg


Hardscape (Work in progress):

img_0754.jpg


Got an important question on the rocks, i've tested them with vinegar: no chemical reaction.
I've tested them with an acid (10% hydrochloric acid): obviously a chemical reaction on the whiter areas (which is not that much).
Can these rocks be used? Or should I just test them in my aquarium and measure the Kh?

Thanks!
 
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