pompeyfan
Member
Here is my Cabinet
It's custom made of smoked Acrylic and i've crammed in 25mm PVC hard plumbing manifolds for:
Two inlets drilled through the tank base, one 'high flow' from a strainer, one corner 'weir overflow'. A solenoid valve bypass increases the 'draw' needed for overflow on the corner weir, which 'encloses' one inlet through the tank.
This is the 'lower' pipework with orange handled ball valves and visible 25mm threaded, (18mm bore) brass solenoid valve.
Drain connections, to attatch 1" gravity fed, or 16mm 'pumped' hoses for fast water changes.
An outlet manifold, (higher pipework) feeding twin 16mm outlets to lilly pipes. One in line CO2 fed 'high flow' (daytime) and one low to higher at night, via a second solenoid bypass. When open, this 'releases' pressure through the Aqumass reactor, fed to the lower lilly pipe one side of the tank. Then the fiter flow is then boosted and more water is diverted to the higher outlet on the other side of the tank. When timed, this increases surface flow and aeration at night.
Auto top up and dosing is taken care of by a GHL Profilux 4 way timed dosing unit, drawing fluids from a 4 section Acrylic tank.
3mm bore tubing with a flow pressurised from the filter, sweeps nutrient doses from three of the peri pumps into the tank.
The 4th pump has been secondary 12V fed as a slave to a timed float switch, bracketed inside the corner weir. This keeps the tank topped up, when the weir is 'off', which is the best way to maintain the action and flow over it, set via ball valves on the inlet manifold.
The Helix UV sterilizer in line with the reactor is seldom on, it just acts as a second reactor and trap for smaller co2 bubbles. An in line hydor heater (behind the FX5) heats the tank.
If only this cabinet could clean itself.... it's a bloody dust magnet
Cheers, Pete
It's custom made of smoked Acrylic and i've crammed in 25mm PVC hard plumbing manifolds for:
Two inlets drilled through the tank base, one 'high flow' from a strainer, one corner 'weir overflow'. A solenoid valve bypass increases the 'draw' needed for overflow on the corner weir, which 'encloses' one inlet through the tank.
This is the 'lower' pipework with orange handled ball valves and visible 25mm threaded, (18mm bore) brass solenoid valve.
Drain connections, to attatch 1" gravity fed, or 16mm 'pumped' hoses for fast water changes.
An outlet manifold, (higher pipework) feeding twin 16mm outlets to lilly pipes. One in line CO2 fed 'high flow' (daytime) and one low to higher at night, via a second solenoid bypass. When open, this 'releases' pressure through the Aqumass reactor, fed to the lower lilly pipe one side of the tank. Then the fiter flow is then boosted and more water is diverted to the higher outlet on the other side of the tank. When timed, this increases surface flow and aeration at night.
Auto top up and dosing is taken care of by a GHL Profilux 4 way timed dosing unit, drawing fluids from a 4 section Acrylic tank.
3mm bore tubing with a flow pressurised from the filter, sweeps nutrient doses from three of the peri pumps into the tank.
The 4th pump has been secondary 12V fed as a slave to a timed float switch, bracketed inside the corner weir. This keeps the tank topped up, when the weir is 'off', which is the best way to maintain the action and flow over it, set via ball valves on the inlet manifold.
The Helix UV sterilizer in line with the reactor is seldom on, it just acts as a second reactor and trap for smaller co2 bubbles. An in line hydor heater (behind the FX5) heats the tank.
If only this cabinet could clean itself.... it's a bloody dust magnet
Cheers, Pete
cleaning and removing it were going to really scratch the acrylic sooner rather than later. So i bottled it and went for plan B:
