Rescaped 500 litre epiphyte only - advice appeciated

[kev_fish]

Ive had a 500 litre aquarium running for years with larger south american cichlids such as severums and geophagus which have topped me keeping many plants. After changing the stocking of my tank and not having the bigger fish ive recently invested in some plants. Ive gone for an epiphyte only set up. Going with a range of different ferns, bolbitis, anubius and bucephelandra. All secured to either stone or wood in as good a position thats aesthetic and both suited to the individual plant. In the past when using these slower growing plants they have been prone to algae and some times develop small holes in the leaves im led to believe is a deficiency of some sort. So going forward im planning on weekly dose of seachem flourish and dosing seachem liquid carbon as a preventative measure for algae. Lighting is provided via a couple of old t5 tubes and a lower powered fluval led. Hoping this is adequate and ill be changing the timer on these if and when algae forms or the plants need longer exposure.



So long winded post thanks for reading. Any advice on my plans i have and anything to add to not decimate the investment ive made in plants as they are not cheap!

 

[LightingBamboozled]

Looking good so far. The flourish should provide the micros to help with the holes. What are the two filters on it? Are they providing enough flow that all the plants are moving a little? (Also one of your intake sponges has fallen down a little exposing the top of the intake strainer)

 

[kev_fish]

Filters are a fluval fx6 and a fluval 305. Both prividing good flow. Could be better but not changing them any time soon.
Not sure what you mean regarding intake sponges. Both intakes dont have a sponge within the tank.

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,
Welcome to UKAPS, your tank looks good.

I understand the epiphytes because of your ?Geophagus? I'd add a floating plant, but I'm a <"floating plant obsessive">.

Both intakes dont have a sponge within the tank.

Personally I always like a <"sponge on the filter intake">, it stops the <"filter acting as a syphon">.

A lot of people want their <"filter to act as a syphon"> ("why else is it called a filter?") but I want to keep all <"the bulky organic debris out of the filter"> body. I just want ammonia (TAN NH3 / NH4+) and <"dissolved oxygen entering the filter">, because biological filtration (nitrification, the oxidation of ammonia to nitrate) is really all about oxygen. You might also be interested in our discussion of biological filter media - <"Is expensive bio media worth it?">.

So going forward im planning on weekly dose of seachem flourish and dosing seachem liquid carbon as a preventative measure for algae.

You would be better with a <"complete fertiliser">, you can still <"add very small amounts">, it just adds all the <"nutrients plants need">.

We don't know what causes <"algal outbreaks">, but healthy plant growth is definitely something that limits them. I'm a <"snail fan as well">, although I understand that might be difficult with your cichlids.

cheers Darrel

 

[kev_fish]

Hi all,
Welcome to UKAPS, your tank looks good.

I understand the epiphytes because of your ?Geophagus? I'd add a floating plant, but I'm a <"floating plant obsessive">.

Personally I always like a <"sponge on the filter intake">, it stops the <"filter acting as a syphon">.

A lot of people want their <"filter to act as a syphon"> ("why else is it called a filter?") but I want to keep all <"the bulky organic debris out of the filter"> body. I just want ammonia (TAN NH3 / NH4+) and <"dissolved oxygen entering the filter">, because biological filtration (nitrification, the oxidation of ammonia to nitrate) is really all about oxygen. You might also be interested in our discussion of biological filter media - <"Is expensive bio media worth it?">.

You would be better with a <"complete fertiliser">, you can still <"add very small amounts">, it just adds all the <"nutrients plants need">.

We don't know what causes <"algal outbreaks">, but healthy plant growth is definitely something that limits them. I'm a <"snail fan as well">, although I understand that might be difficult with your cichlids.

cheers Darrel

Ill add some floating plants and see how they go. Quite a lot of surface movement but can onky try.

As for the pre sponge on the inlet, you make valid points, ive just always wanted to limit internal equipment but any suggestions of sponge that dont look to bad to cover my inlets id appreciate.

Im quite a lazy aquarist so the one bottle of mixed ferts will be better for me. Especially on low demanding plants i hope.

As for snails well its full of malaysian trumpets.

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

ive just always wanted to limit internal equipment but any suggestions of sponge that dont look to bad to cover my inlets id appreciate.

I use really big black 20 ppi foam blocks (the ones they <"sell for Koi ponds">), like the one below on the powerhead, because I can't always maintain the tanks regularly and I don't want them to clog.

<"Envobee shrimp sell some poret"> foams - <"Poret® Sponge Replacement for Aquael Pat Mini Filter 20cm - Envobee Shrimp">.

quite a lazy aquarist so the one bottle of mixed ferts will be better for me

Because it is a big tank I'd look at dry salts, they <"work out a lot cheaper in the long run">.

cheers Darrel

 

[Hanuman]

Lighting is provided via a couple of old t5 tubes and a lower powered fluval led. Hoping this is adequate and ill be changing the timer on these if and when algae forms or the plants need longer exposure.

Since you are using slow growing and low demanding plants you will want to tame your light. This will be the first and foremost reason why you will start getting algae, specially because you also have some wood pieces in there and those will also release organics in the water which in turn will also promote algae development.
You will want to fertilize rather lean considering you don't seem to add any CO2, but as suggested by Darrel, better to use a complete fertilizer to make sure your plants have all they need. I would even go to say that adding some plant hormones would help all those epiphytes grow roots faster, thus making them healthier. You can have a read here:Rhizotonic by Canna
Adding some floating plants is a good idea and will help in lowering the light but also sucking any extra ferts from the water.

As for snails well its full of malaysian trumpets.

Those do not eat algae, but are great at aerating the substrate and cleaning any uneaten food. They will multiply very fast if you overfeed. For algae purposes snails like nerites or other sp will probably be better. Only beef I have with nerites is that they leave white eggs every where. You also have cichlids so it kind of make it difficult to have snails. You can try though and see if they end up being snacks!

 

[_Maq_]

Have you considered adding some Echinodoruses? Plants are essential for creating healthy habitat, but not all plants are "working" at the same pace. Unfortunately, those you'd chosen are hardy, but "slow" in action. If you add some strong and rapidly growing plants like Echinodorus, you might improve the environment substantially. You can plant them in pots and hide the pots within the substrate. Many cichlid-keepers do it that way.

 

[hwscot]

As for the pre sponge on the inlet, you make valid points, ive just always wanted to limit internal equipment but any suggestions of sponge that dont look to bad to cover my inlets id appreciate.

I'm with Darrel on sponge pre-filters. Not least because of the laziness issue. I've had a Fluval 207 on my 90L cube for a couple of years, and on the very few occasions when I've opened it up for a clean, there has been barely any debris to wash out. On the intake sponge, I think a lot will depend on how your tank runs, and how much debris it generates, but I'd say the critical issue is the one that Darrel mentions, of the sponge clogging.

I use a small sponge. Given my tank layout, it would be difficult practically to make space for a large one .. or more accurately, to make space for both the sponge and my hand when I'm removing it to clean (removing the sponge, not my hand. I try not to remove my hands as a general principle).

I use a sponge similar to those that come with the Aquael mini Pat. In two years of running the Fluval, I've only twice had to dive in and clean the sponge because flow has suddenly dropped. I'm slightly obsessed with the mini Pat, which punches above its weight in performance for the cost and the size. I run one as a supplementary filter in the 90L cube, and in several other tanks. You can tuck them away in a corner and barely know they're there. I've sourced spare sponges for them because the one supplied with the filter is too coarse if you have shrimp or fry. But you can go too fine, and then clogging becomes a frequent issue and a pain. Sponges on powered intakes seem to suddenly hit a threshold where the sponge clogs, collapses, and flow stops.

So I'd suggest that secondary to the issue of the size of the sponge, you try to find the right PPI. Darrel's suggestion of 20PPI is a good one, and it's what I have on the Fluval, though I have 40 on some of my Pats. There will be a sweet spot for your tank. My assumption (Darrel?) is that 40 allows a denser bacterial colony to develop. Also it seems to provide a more congenial surface for fish to graze.

 

[kev_fish]

Thanks for all the replies.

nerite snails maybe an expensive snack for the geophagus i have, also for the L091 plecs in there too. Theres four L-number plecs to keep on top of some of the algae i hope.

Im also considering popping in some stem plants in the back at some point that i have growing in other tanks. They will be added over time and attached to weights out of sight. I know they benefit from rooting and finding nutrients that way but thats not happening with substrate i have and current fish. They will be just there hopefully to pull excess nutrients from the water.

A pre sponge seems a good idea, might need to do some research on retro fitting something to my inlets. The fx6 maybe problematic, any suggestions.

 

[hwscot]

A pre sponge seems a good idea, might need to do some research on retro fitting something to my inlets. The fx6 maybe problematic, any suggestions.

The intake strainer on the fx6 is certainly ginormous. I think if I were running one, I'd be modding the intake to use something with holes around / along a longer stem, so you could get a taller sponge round it. I can't see anywhere at the moment that has such a thing to buy, but really all you need is your inlet pipe and a drill.

 

[Le duke]

You can replace the stock FX6/FX4 inlet pipe with PVC or other options, such as jet pipes.

Marineland makes a prefilter sponge that works with 3/4" (~1.05" OD) PVC that will work very well as a prefilter sponge for an FX6.

 

[LightingBamboozled]

Not sure what you mean regarding intake sponges. Both intakes dont have a sponge within the tank.

On second look I think what I thought was an intake falling off might have been a reflection of a cushion or something dark outside the tank but I'm glad it led to useful discussion.

 

[kev_fish]

On second look I think what I thought was an intake falling off might have been a reflection of a cushion or something dark outside the tank but I'm glad it led to useful discussion.

Haha, very much so. Thank you for bringing it to my attention. That cushion reflection has just had me on google for an hour looking at prefilters sponges to fit my filters!