• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

Plants turning brown

Here are some photos
 

Attachments

  • IMG20230906180556.jpg
    IMG20230906180556.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 74
  • IMG20230906180539.jpg
    IMG20230906180539.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 77
  • IMG20230906180547.jpg
    IMG20230906180547.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 83
  • IMG20230906180514.jpg
    IMG20230906180514.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 76
  • IMG20230906180450.jpg
    IMG20230906180450.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 79
Hi all,
Okay, how can I figure out dosage?
You just need the percentage iron (Fe) in the Fe EDDHA and your tank size.

Just for this calculation, I'm going to assume 6% Fe, 800 litres tank size and that you want 0.5 ppm (mg / L) iron.

One gram of Fe EDDHA contains 0.06 g of iron (Fe) and there are a thousand milligrams (mg) in a gram, so 0.06 g Fe = 60 milligram Fe (1000 x 0.06). Milligrams per litre and ppm are equivalent, so 1 gram Fe EDDHA in 120 litres = 0.5 ppm Fe.

We have 800 litres, so 800 / 120 = 6.67 and 6.67g of Fe EDDHA in 800 litres = 0.5 ppm Fe.

You could check with Rotala Butterfly <"Nutrient Dosing Calculator"> or download the <"IFC Aquarium Fertilizer Calculator"> etc.

You might find that is a bit pink <"How to mix FeEDDHA"> (via the Rotala calculator), in which case 0.2 ppm might be better, which would be 0.5 / 0.2 = 2.5 and 6.67 / 2.5 = 2.7 g FeEDDHA.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all,

You just need the percentage iron (Fe) in the Fe EDDHA and your tank size.

Just for this calculation, I'm going to assume 6% Fe, 800 litres tank size and that you want 0.5 ppm (mg / L) iron.

One gram of Fe EDDHA contains 0.06 g of iron (Fe) and there are a thousand milligrams (mg) in a gram, so 0.06 g Fe = 60 milligram Fe (1000 x 0.06). Milligrams per litre and ppm are equivalent, so 1 gram Fe EDDHA in 120 litres = 0.5 ppm Fe.

We have 800 litres, so 800 / 120 = 6.67 and 6.67g of Fe EDDHA in 800 litres = 0.5 ppm Fe. You could check with Rotala Butterfly <"Nutrient Dosing Calculator"> or download the <"IFC Aquarium Fertilizer Calculator"> etc.

You might find that is a bit pink, in which case 0.2 ppm might be better, which would be 0.5 / 0.2 = 2.5 and 6.67 / 2.5 = 2.7 g FeEDDHA.

cheers Darrel
Thank you very much Darrel.
 
Hi all,

You just need the percentage iron (Fe) in the Fe EDDHA and your tank size.

Just for this calculation, I'm going to assume 6% Fe, 800 litres tank size and that you want 0.5 ppm (mg / L) iron.

One gram of Fe EDDHA contains 0.06 g of iron (Fe) and there are a thousand milligrams (mg) in a gram, so 0.06 g Fe = 60 milligram Fe (1000 x 0.06). Milligrams per litre and ppm are equivalent, so 1 gram Fe EDDHA in 120 litres = 0.5 ppm Fe.

We have 800 litres, so 800 / 120 = 6.67 and 6.67g of Fe EDDHA in 800 litres = 0.5 ppm Fe.

You could check with Rotala Butterfly <"Nutrient Dosing Calculator"> or download the <"IFC Aquarium Fertilizer Calculator"> etc.

You might find that is a bit pink <"How to mix FeEDDHA"> (via the Rotala calculator), in which case 0.2 ppm might be better, which would be 0.5 / 0.2 = 2.5 and 6.67 / 2.5 = 2.7 g FeEDDHA.

cheers Darrel
The strange thing i cant find it for wholesale
 
I speak from a position of a hardcore low-tech, but still...
(1) ADA Amazonia,
(2) Root tabs,
(3) Liquid Tropica complete fertilizers plus additional phosphate.
How come we are talking about nutrient deficiency? There should be a plenty of iron in the substrate -> meaning reduced iron.
Of course, high alkalinity and (additional) phosphate are iron killers. Plus an enormous sump filter.
 
I speak from a position of a hardcore low-tech, but still...
(1) ADA Amazonia,
(2) Root tabs,
(3) Liquid Tropica complete fertilizers plus additional phosphate.
How come we are talking about nutrient deficiency? There should be a plenty of iron in the substrate -> meaning reduced iron.
Of course, high alkalinity and (additional) phosphate are iron killers. Plus an enormous sump filter.
Okay, what do you think an issue?
 
Okay, what do you think an issue?
For quite a many years, I work with RODI water only, and mineralize sparingly. That means, my waters are soft. Only sometimes, when performing experiments, I'm using moderately hard and alkaline water. I think quite many species don't do well in basic & alkaline water. Of these, some may benefit from CO2 injection (I've never tried), but others are probably hopeless.
So, the first issue is your water. Some species will suffer and hardly ever attain perfect shape.

Second issue, I think, is the very way you've established your tank. I don't like various "soils" for substrate. They aren't easy to manage because they are reactive, leaking numerous compounds of unknown attributes, and they support microbial flora to a degree which may be a nuisance. You've enhanced these properties with root tabs. Plus you dose into the water column.
These things create an environment favourable to microbes, including algae. That is why I've mentioned UV-C lamp because it helps keeping microbes of all kind at bay.

There is a big caveat in my advice, though. Like I said and stress again, all my tanks are and ever were low-tech. That's quite different situation. I dose sparingly, only to water column, and my substrates are sandy. I have no problems with iron, I don't need chelated iron nor other micros, because I keep alkalinity negligible and pH in more or less acidic range. And I don't use filters, so that my iron and phosphates do not get trapped in the filter. In the substrate, microbes and plants will find their way to them eventually.

A conservative advice is perhaps increasing water changes, fertilizing a bit less, and choosing more hardy plants.
 
Add to what @_Maq_ said about plants to suit your water Most Vallis species would actually do well in your water, and in nature are often found doing well in Brackish environments Try the Tropica(sponsor website) for any suitable plants, just to add you might only need two or three types of plants to have a nice tank
 
Overall your plants don’t look too bad at all. Aside from nutrient issues, I don’t really see why rotala shouldn’t do well. It sometimes needs a while to settle before it starts to grow properly. Repeated trimming before this will just weaken the plant.

I’ve grown it in liquid rock and EI levels of fertz dosing, and our sponsor Aquarium Gardens doesn’t have any problem with similar water conditions. Although many plants are easier to grow in softer water, good flow and distribution of CO2 is key. If this is not optimal it’s usually the underlying problem.
 
Overall your plants don’t look too bad at all. Aside from nutrient issues, I don’t really see why rotala shouldn’t do well. It sometimes needs a while to settle before it starts to grow properly. Repeated trimming before this will just weaken the plant.

I’ve grown it in liquid rock and EI levels of fertz dosing, and our sponsor Aquarium Gardens doesn’t have any problem with similar water conditions. Although many plants are easier to grow in softer water, good flow and distribution of CO2 is key. If this is not optimal it’s usually the underlying problem.
Thank you for your feedback. Okay I will just start dosing a new solution and wait before treamming.
What I`m doing for last days, waiting before pH will drop and after dosing Iron, I see kind of change in a new growth
 
Back
Top