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New tank algae problem

Cintain

Member
Joined
22 Aug 2023
Messages
25
Location
Edinburgh, Scotland
So, I have algae in my new tank (boo!). I have a few theories about what is going on, but I am hoping to avail myself of the expertise and advice of this forum. Here we go:

1. Size of tank in litres: Aquabox clear peninsula 4820 (the phased-out model without overflow tank/sump) roughly 275 litres
2. Age of the set - up: it's new, only two weeks old.
3. Filtration: Oase 600T, plus Eheim surface skimmer SKIM350
4. Lighting and duration. Chihiro's WRGB2 Pro 120, on for 10 hours at 100%, with one-hour ramp-up and ramp-down times.
5. Substrate: Bottom: 3.5 cm of JBL ProFlora Aquabasis Plus, overlaid with a thin (2-3mm) inert fine black sand, and about 2.5cm medium-grade inert black gravel on top
6. Co2 dosing or Non-dosing: 12 hours, measured at roughly 35 psi, about 120 bubbles per minute using a CO2Art regulator and in-line diffuser. Goes on one hour before the lights come on, goes off one hour before the lights go out.
7. Fertilizers used & Ratios: Arka Tehnologie Grow Microbe-Lift Plants Green... I've only used this once, but my plan was to use it once per week. I think it might be too little... any advice on what fertilizers to use would be greatly appreciated.
8. Water change regime and type: Weekly, about ⅓ of the tank contents each time. I use tap water conditioned with Arka Technologie Microbe-Lift Salt&Fresh Xtreme Water Conditioner. This and the fertilizer are proprietary to the local shop where I buy stuff (Maidenhead Aquatics).
9. Plant list + When planted.: Microsorum pteropus, Ludwigia granulosa, Anubias congensis, Cryptocoryne undulatus Kasselman, Anubias nana mini, all planted at initial setup. These are all doing fine except for the cryptocoryne, which seems to be losing colour and leaves.
Limnophila sessiflora was planted a few days later, but also during the first week. It's doing fine, has almost doubled in size.
Hygrophila difformis, Alternanthera reinickii 'mini', Pogostemon helferi, and Taxiphyllum barbieri were plant
IMG_3229.JPG
ed after the first water change, and also seem to be doing well.
All the new growth in the Ludwigia is a deep crimson red, which is nice. The top leaves of the Limnophila are also showing some red coloration. The Althernanthera actually lost some of its brightness since planting (it was bright pink, now it's more dull red).
10. Drop Checker. Yes (see pic), it shows some oscillation from deep, almost-blue green to lime over the course of the CO2 injection period.
11. Inhabitants. two juvenile pearl gouramis (Trichopodus leeri), twelve Otocinclus affinis. Planning to add 8 Ambastaia sidthimunki and 9 Kryptopterus vitreolus in the next few weeks.

Brief history: about halfway into the first week, I added the gouramis. the water turned quite murky afterwards. When I did the first water change, I noticed some hair algae on the hardscape and realised what I thought was cloudiness in the water was actually a whitish muck on the glass (no idea what this was, didn't look like algae). I tested the water and got pH 7, zero ammonia, almost zero nitrite, and nitrates at about 40 ppm. I cleaned the glass and the filter (using the old aquarium water to avoid destroying the bacterial population) and the water seemed clear for a few more days. In fact, i didn't clear the hair algae manually, but it seemed to vanish overnight after the water change. The plants (with the exception of the Cryptocoryne) seem to all be doing great. They have lots of pearling and all have new growth. After the water change I added the Otos. Again, halfway down the week, I noticed hair algae, but this time it is more widespread, covering the glass walls very densely.

What I think is going on: I haven't used the fertiliser except the one time after the water change, so with the strong lighting, the plants might be using up the nutrients halfway through the week. Also, I increased the light regime, from 8 to 12 hours, after the first water change, so this might have increased the rate at which the nutrients were used up?

I will clean the glass and filter and do a water change today, but any advice, pointers, or glaring mistakes you guys can point out would be very helpful!!

12. Full tank image & Surface image: see attached. I've included some detail pics of the plants to illustrate what they're doing. I am particularly worried about the Cryptocoryne... I think it's dying...

This was initial setup:
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IMG_3192.JPG


Today, right before I start cleaning:
IMG_3225.JPG

IMG_3226.JPG

IMG_3227.JPG

IMG_3228.JPG

IMG_3229.JPG
 
4. Lighting and duration. Chihiro's WRGB2 Pro 120, on for 10 hours at 100%, with one-hour ramp-up and ramp-down times.
What I think is going on: I haven't used the fertiliser except the one time after the water change, so with the strong lighting, the plants might be using up the nutrients halfway through the week. Also, I increased the light regime, from 8 to 12 hours, after the first water change, so this might have increased the rate at which the nutrients were used up?
I will clean the glass and filter and do a water change today, but any advice, pointers, or glaring mistakes you guys can point out would be very helpful!!
Your tank is very lightly planted with mostly slow growing plants and you have your lights at 100%. That is why IMO you are seeing all that algae. If I was you I would increase the plant mass, slightly decrease the light intensity and see from there. Some of your plants like Alternanthera reineckii 'Mini' require high light for better looks but can still be grown in medium light. Also whenever you see dying leaves, remove them, don't let them melt in the water column. They will add organic material to the water which is also a contributor for algae development.
 
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4. Lighting and duration. Chihiro's WRGB2 Pro 120, on for 10 hours at 100%, with one-hour ramp-up and ramp-down times.
Also, I increased the light regime, from 8 to 12 hours,
As @Hanuman said above but I would also cut the duration back down to 8 hours for now and reduce the ramp times to half hour.
5. Substrate: Bottom: 3.5 cm of JBL ProFlora Aquabasis Plus
What I think is going on: I haven't used the fertiliser except the one time after the water change
I'm not familiar with Aquabasis Plus but I don't believe it is loaded with nutrients therefore I would be using the full fertiliser regime from day 1.
8. Water change regime and type: Weekly, about ⅓ of the tank contents each time.
With a high tech tank it would be beneficial to be changing at least 50% of the water daily for the first week, every other day the second week, every third day the third week and weekly thereafter. Keep your Oase pre filter as clean as possible too.
Planning to add 8 Ambastaia sidthimunki and 9 Kryptopterus vitreolus in the next few weeks.
I would give it four to six weeks before adding any more fish, let your plants root and start growing first, they are your best friend. If you can afford it a few more bunches of cheap fast growing stems would be beneficial to help season the tank, these can be removed at a later date if they don't fit in with your vision.

There is more than one way to skin a cat and the above are only my suggestions to help get through the initial start up phase and BTW, your tank looks rather nice.
Cheers!
 
Thanks for the feedback all! Please keep it coming! OK, so I did a water change and reduced the lights to 9 hours at 80%, plus 1 ½ hours ramp time.

@Hanuman I went out and bought a Rotala rotundifolia, Staurogyne repens, and Lilaeopsis brasilensis after the water change yesterday. I think they are all fast-growing? I also thought Hygrophila was fast-growing? I should have shown you the other view of the tank, too, I realised I didn't include any views of the other side, you can see more plants there (see pic)
IMG_3231.JPG
.

Any other suggestions for fast growers?

@palcente Ah! Good to know! wow, so lucky! I was going to move them yesterday, but my wife persuaded me to leave them. She pointed out a single new leaf on one of them and said "wait; if that leaf dies, then change them." Phew!

@bazz Thank you! I am rather proud of the way its coming along... it took months to source the hardscape. I had thought maybe I should change the water more frequently, but didn't want for it to become a permanent thing as I can't afford it, time-wise. I'll try twice a week this time.

Any suggestions for commercially-available fertilisers that might be good? I checked the ingredients on the one I have, and it doesn't have any nitrate or phosphorus... I know some people say one shouldn't add those as they might create an algae bloom, but I've read that sometimes they are needed. I need to test this water thoroughly, it seems.

I was also reading this thread and wondering if I should get some Amano shrimp, but... will the Gouramis and Dwarf chain loaches get along with them?

Again, many thanks and keep them coming, guys!

C
 
@palcente Ah! Good to know! wow, so lucky! I was going to move them yesterday, but my wife persuaded me to leave them. She pointed out a single new leaf on one of them and said "wait; if that leaf dies, then change them." Phew!
They will initially look different - different colour, possibly leaf shape - every tank is different. Also be careful with that light - 100% on it is a bit bonkers - how tall is the tank?
 
If we look at this is the most basic form, then if you were not using any light, you would not get any nuisance algae.
If you allowed 16 hours of natural sunlight, you would have a green algae bath, so somewhere in between is a sweet spot.
The sweet spot is determined by various criteria but C02 and light are two fundamentals that produce healthy plant mass.
It is often said that C02 is the driving force that grows the plants and the light is secondary (we are talking in very basic terms here) so start with 6-8 hours of light and get the C02 really on song.
Once you have the gas running in a fashion that offers one point PH drop, one hour before the light come on and remains stable for the whole of the lighting period, then we can look at increasing the light intensity and duration.
With the water changing, simply do as much as you can especially in the first two weeks.
Generally speaking I would always recommend setting up the C02 without any living creatures in the tank!
 
50 cm. The lamp has 10cm clearance. As of today the lights are down to 80%, per @Hanuman's suggestion, and the photoperiod is now 9 hours with 1.5 ramp times. Still too much?

I think it's too much, but that's just my opinion.

I have this light and I started with 25% ramping up 5% each week. (I had in-vitro plants).

My tank is 45cm tall and I keep the lights on 8 hours per day with no ramp up/ramp down.

It's been over one year since I started and found 75% to be a sweet spot - I have 30cm clearance.

 
I think it's too much, but that's just my opinion.

I have this light and I started with 25% ramping up 5% each week. (I had in-vitro plants).

My tank is 45cm tall and I keep the lights on 8 hours per day with no ramp up/ramp down.

It's been over one year since I started and found 75% to be a sweet spot - I have 30cm clearance.


WOW, that is a nice tank. Thank you for sharing!

I see, I came at this from the back-end, then. I will try my current set-up for a week and see how it evolves. I have now scheduled myself to do a water change on Wednesday, so hopefully that will help.

@foxfish Ah, unfortunately the desire to have fish won out... i fully intended to cycle up the tank for two weeks before adding any fish, but this is my first tank in 25 years, and my wife was also egging me on to get some inhabitants after initial setup. So, just to clarify, should I test the pH before the CO2 starts (which is one hour before the lights come on) and then throughout the day to get a sense of where it goes, and then once it's stable at that value, then increase the photoperiod and intensity? How many days would you recommend testing in this fashion?

Again many thanks everyone for your attention and responses! Keep it coming, I'm learning so much!

~C
 
Microbe-Lift Plants Green...
They boast "It is completely free of nitrate and phosphate this effectively prevents the unwanted growth of algae."
Nitrate and phosphate are essential for plant growth, and plant growth will inhibit algae. I think you need to add some to your ferts regime, or get a complete fertiliser to replace what you have.
As you have seen, lack of nitrate and phosphate does not prevent algae - whatever some may claim. :)
 
Not running it at 100% probably also prolongs the lifespan of the LEDs, since the WRGB2 Pro uses more watts and yet does not seem to have a larger heatsink compared to the lower wattage original WRGB2., so when you touch the heatsink, it definitely runs warmer than the original. If you need more light, you can always buy a second one... then you have better back to front coverage as well :cool:
 
They boast "It is completely free of nitrate and phosphate this effectively prevents the unwanted growth of algae."
Nitrate and phosphate are essential for plant growth, and plant growth will inhibit algae. I think you need to add some to your ferts regime, or get a complete fertiliser to replace what you have.
As you have seen, lack of nitrate and phosphate does not prevent algae - whatever some may claim. :)
Any recommendations for "full-spectrum" fertiliser products?
 
I think Darrel's suggestion for using blends for hydroponics makes good sense. These fertilizers do not take into account the presence of fish, meaning they do not expect you add phosphorus and nitrogen with fish food.
 
So, the algae continues to grow, pretty undaunted... I found this thread and was thinking of trying it out, i.e., reducing the light even further, to just six hours. My question now is: if I do this, should I reduce the duration of the CO2 injection as well? Is my understanding correct that it should come on and off 1 hour before the lights?

I am seeing quite a bit of growth in some of the plants (the Ludwigia and the Limnophila have almost reached the surface, and the latter is sending out runners all over the place. The Cryptos are putting out new leaves, and the Pogostemon and Alternanthera are starting to look really pretty and full. I relocated the Anubias to on top of the driftwood and they seem to love it. All of the plants are full of oxygen bubbles... I'm just worried now because the hair algae is starting to grow on them...

Again, any help/advice is most appreciated, guys! Thanks in advance, and I hope your plants are growing, your fish are thriving, and it is all algae-free!

~C
 
Lighting and duration. Chihiro's WRGB2 Pro 120, on for 10 hours at 100%, with one-hour ramp-up and ramp-down times.
Reduce this to 50%.
My question now is: if I do this, should I reduce the duration of the CO2 injection as well?
Yes, adjust the injection time's so they correspond to the photo period.
Par example Lights on ~ co2 drop achieved. (This could take minutes or hours)
Lights off... knock the co2 off1hr prior to this .
 
the algae continues to grow, pretty undaunted
I'm not particularly happy with you choice of plants. The segment of "easy fast-growing stem plants" is rather weak in your tank. You can't expect much in respect of establishing stability from slow-growers like Microsorum or Anubias.
My way in situations like this is rather conservative. I believe the main culprit of all troubles is an imbalance in microbial community. Usually, microbes have got too much to "eat". The way to go is to get "slimmer" - in nutrients, organic compounds, and oxygen consumption. Water changes, no fertilizers, moderately vigorous water movement, reduced light (both in time and intensity).
 
It's only been two weeks so it will take a while for things to shake out. For algae reduction in my hands lighting intensity is more of an algae growth driver than is lighting duration. For crypt melt, if the crypts were grown emersed in rockwool (i.e. are NOT from in vitro cups) then you can cut off all the emersed foliage and plant the roots and crowns. This will give you faster adaptation and no messy decaying leaves - the only one to not do this with is crypt parva. Your algae looks soft and green and doesn't cause me concern with such an immature tank - it won't look pretty but it won't hurt anything and is pretty easy to get back under control once your water chemistry gets stabilised. This is a 'long haul' hobby and a lot of panicky changes early on won't ultimately be helpful - try to relax. :cool:
 
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