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New tank after 5month wait

Eggs gone this morning
I know next to nothing about angelfish, however with my previous angels it took several attempts (4or5) before they raised any fry, then these were eaten by the other inhabitants
I think they get “bored” looking after the eggs, first few times
The spawning pair have pretty much returned to the group (of 5) now
 
H all,
fredi said:
I am ceasing adding Chempak Fe, Mn, Mg for a bit, as I only carry out 20% water changes, I have no way of monitoring Mn, so will add Chempak Fe, Mn, Mg every 4 weeks and see how it goes
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You need to watch out for the first signs of iron (Fe) deficiency. Have a look at "When the Duckweed Index breaks down" - <"What is the “Duckweed Index” all about?">,

cheers Darrel
 
dw1305 said:
H all,

You need to watch out for the first signs of iron (Fe) deficiency. Have a look at "When the Duckweed Index breaks down" - <"What is the “Duckweed Index” all about?">,

cheers Darrel
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Thank you
I will have a read, your info is what led me to add Mg, I suspect that you are correct and Fe will also be required
I should really make an effort to get some pictures of the plants up, the tank looks pretty ok (to me), but there is always room for improvement
The only algae issues I have is with thread algae, it tends to accumulate on buces, and java moss, perhaps a little more water movement is required
 
Some fish and a buce, tank seems to be coming on, I will make a change from apt complete to dry salt ferts soon, as I cannot get on top of NO3, don’t want to start making large water changes, so will try a tailored solution to fertsIMG_2979.jpegIMG_2977.jpegIMG_2981.jpeg
 
hypnogogia said:
What do you mean?
Click to expand...
NO3 steady at around 30ppm, currently adding apt complete at 80% recommended dose, water change 20% weekly, 30% tapwater (around30ppm NO3) fish load is adding plenty, so I will change to dry salts, adding zero NO3, and phosphate, will see how it goes
 
fredi said:
NO3 steady at around 30ppm, currently adding apt complete at 80% recommended dose, water change 20% weekly, 30% tapwater (around30ppm NO3) fish load is adding plenty, so I will change to dry salts, adding zero NO3, and phosphate, will see how it goes
Click to expand...
If it really is 30ppm, that would be fine, but NO3 testing is notoriously unreliable. Before I got actively involved in discussions here I chased my tail for about 6mths with my tank, measuring NO3, which, whatever I did, hovered around 40ppm. Started reading here, and then, one day I measured with a different test from the same company it it read 10ppm. So, I wouldn’t trust those tests at all. If your plants are doing fine then carry on doing what you’re doing.
 
hypnogogia said:
If it really is 30ppm, that would be fine, but NO3 testing is notoriously unreliable. Before I got actively involved in discussions here I chased my tail for about 6mths with my tank, measuring NO3, which, whatever I did, hovered around 40ppm. Started reading here, and then, one day I measured with a different test from the same company it it read 10ppm. So, I wouldn’t trust those tests at all. If your plants are doing fine then carry on doing what you’re doing.
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The plants are fine (I think), have a few w/c fish, and would prefer about half the concentration of NO3
I know what you mean about NO3 testing, however I have been testing since the tank started and have seen it rise from around 10 to what it is now, I realise that I am not adding much (via apt, or tapwater) but would ideally like it lower
 
Hi all,
fredi said:
as I cannot get on top of NO3, don’t want to start making large water changes, so will try a tailored solution to ferts
Click to expand...
fredi said:
NO3 steady at around 30ppm, currently adding apt complete at 80% recommended dose, water change 20% weekly, 30% tapwater (around30ppm NO3) fish load is adding plenty, so I will change to dry salts, adding zero NO3, and phosphate, will see how it goes
Click to expand...
I honestly wouldn't worry too much. Your plant growth looks pretty good and your fish look really healthy. That is honestly what matters.
FrozenShivers said:
Really nice tank and love that angelfish
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I was just admiring that photo as well. I'm sure it is possible to have healthy plants (if you were adding high levels of CO2 or ammonia based fertiliser) and unhealthy fish, but usually if <"plant growth is good">? Conditions will be good for your fish as well.

Plants are just the <"gift that keeps on giving"> in water quality terms, nutrients and plant growth form a <"negative feedback loop">, where higher nutrient levels encourage faster plant growth and faster plant growth then depletes those nutrients.

hypnogogia said:
If it really is 30ppm, that would be fine, but NO3 testing is notoriously unreliable. Before I got actively involved in discussions here I chased my tail for about 6mths with my tank, measuring NO3, which, whatever I did, hovered around 40ppm. Started reading here, and then, one day I measured with a different test from the same company it it read 10ppm. So, I wouldn’t trust those tests at all. If your plants are doing fine then carry on doing what you’re doing.
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<"Basically that">, but you can reduce the amount of fixed nitrogen you add via fertilisers and water changes, just use the <"Duckweed Index"> to keep your plants in active growth.

Partially why I don't worry about <"nitrate (NO3-) accumulation"> is that when you thin your plants you are removing that fixed nitrogen and plants are much <"more effective at fixed nitrogen removal"> than most fish-keeping literature acknowledges.

cheers Darrel
 
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malik uddin said:
Maybe your test kit is faulty. Have you tried taking water samples to your lfs
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I don’t trust the exact numbers, but have checked with 50% RO dilution, and get roughly 15ppm, so I am fairly confident that it’s higher than I ideally would like
 
dw1305 said:
Hi all,


I honestly wouldn't worry too much. Your plant growth looks pretty good and your fish look really healthy. That is honestly what matters.

I was just admiring that photo as well. I'm sure it is possible to have healthy plants (if you were adding high levels of CO2 or ammonia based fertiliser) and unhealthy fish, but usually if <"plant growth is good">? Conditions will be good for your fish as well.

Plants are just the <"gift that keeps on giving"> in water quality terms, nutrients and plant growth form a <"negative feedback loop">, where higher nutrient levels encourage faster plant growth and faster plant growth then depletes those nutrients.


<"Basically that">, but you can reduce the amount of fixed nitrogen you add via fertilisers and water changes, just use the <"Duckweed Index"> to keep your plants in active growth.

Partially why I don't worry about <"nitrate (NO3-) accumulation"> is that when you thin your plants you are removing that fixed nitrogen and plants are much <"more effective at fixed nitrogen removal"> than most fish-keeping literature acknowledges.

cheers Darrel
Click to expand...
Thanks Darrel
I think the plants are doing ok, i would prefer an NO3 number below 20ppm
I have been monitoring surface plants and am adding Mg, occasionally Mn, and Fe
Some of the plants grow like weeds, my tropheus appreciate this 😂😂
I cannot grow stem plants (planted), as the plecs just dig them up, I have hydrophilia floating, but have to keep these in check as I want a largely clear surface area for oxygen exchange, so as far as I am aware my options for NO3 consumption are limited
Thanks again
Paul
 
hypnogogia said:
If it really is 30ppm, that would be fine, but NO3 testing is notoriously unreliable. Before I got actively involved in discussions here I chased my tail for about 6mths with my tank, measuring NO3, which, whatever I did, hovered around 40ppm. Started reading here, and then, one day I measured with a different test from the same company it it read 10ppm. So, I wouldn’t trust those tests at all. If your plants are doing fine then carry on doing what you’re doing.
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You may well be correct
I really don’t know whether it’s 30, 40, or 20, I have been using this kit (API) since I started the tank, the reading has steadily risen, and “levelled” out at indicated 30
I don’t think it’s doing the fish immediate harm, but it’s certainly higher than they would experience in their natural habitat
 
Hi all,
fredi said:
I have hydrophilia floating, but have to keep these in check as I want a largely clear surface area for oxygen exchange
Click to expand...
This is a really common worry, but it is only a potential problem in very specific circumstances where you have a <"really thick blanket of floating plants">, covering the entire gas exchange surface. Away from this specific scenario? Plants are <"massively net oxygen producers">.

People <"worry about at night"> (when plants are respiring and not photosynthesising) that they will deplete the oxygen levels, but planted tanks will typically have <"much higher levels of dissolved oxygen, at all times">, than non-planted ones, <"where it is always "night">.

Plants are very efficient at storing gases (the excess oxygen from photosynthesis during the day and the CO2 from respiration at night) in their <"internal storage spaces">.

cheers Darrel
 
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dw1305 said:
Hi all,

This is a really common worry, but it is only a potential problem in very specific circumstances where you have a <"really thick blanket of floating plants">, covering the entire gas exchange surface. Away from this specific scenario? Plants are <"massively net oxygen producers">.

People <"worry about at night"> (when plants are respiring and not photosynthesising) that they will deplete the oxygen levels, but planted tanks will typically have <"much higher levels of dissolved oxygen, at all times">, than non-planted ones, <"where it is always "night">.

Plants are very efficient at storing gases (the excess oxygen from photosynthesis during the day and the CO2 from respiration at night) in their <"internal storage spaces">.

cheers Darrel
Click to expand...
Thanks Darrel, My experience in heavily planted aquaria is pretty much non existent,
I very much bow to your greater knowledge
I have a couple of areas (one 60x40 cm the other much smaller), which are pretty “solid” with surface plants, I tend to slightly thin these, to keep the status quo, and remove some floating plants, to prevent “no flow areas”
 
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