New Decade, New Decadence...

[Wookii]

We’re down to brass tacks now @Wookii and the answer would be no to a controller as far as I’m aware. ADA sell a prescribed system at a premium, not a single product which flies in the face of the general UK attitude. Conformist society from source leaching through. They want you to use 200 PAR always, which means their Amazonia soil has to be rich to deal with the light driving growth. You also have to find space for these bad boys:

View attachment 149201

True - I get the whole ‘system’ methodology - but I’m devoutly non-conformist (a serial tweaker). At the end of the day it is just a light, and with a substantial external AC/DC transformer - they are big looking beasts - inserting a Philips Hue compatible LED controller at some point in the chain should allow easy timed on/off ramping I’d have thought. Just thinking ahead if I decided to go for those ADA lights - the ramping on and off would be my only stumbling block.

However, in ADA’s defence everything runs cool and their lighting units are light. Efficiency. Their fert/lighting/substrate system works. It’s well thought out and means the consumer can enjoy success.... That is basically what you pay for. Unless you’re the kind of guy who puts two ONF Flat ones on full whack in less than 30cm of water to see what’s what 😂

Lol you have certainly proved that it’s not possible to have too much light if you can control the other variables!

To me, the Maxlite in the colour spectrum game is the bridge between the Solar RGB and the Twinstar. The Maxlite is also adjustable in its intensity compared to ADA’s lowering and raising of the units. The gentleman who designed it is all about colour spectrum. Fills the gap once again but as always, people’s preference is highly subjective. The ONF Flat One, ADA Solar RGB’s and Maxlite all undoubtedly grow plants and punch adequate PAR to depth. We’re spoilt for choice these days.

We are spoilt these days, it’s true. I still have my Giesemann mercury vapour lamps from 20 years ago, state of the art at the time - now they are yellow - but completely redundant now! At least they did naturally fade on and off slowly.

All that said though, I look at the level of control that the reef guys enjoy with their lights, and can’t help but think we in the planted tank arena are still several generations behind the curve.

 

[Geoffrey Rea]

All that said though, I look at the level of control that the reef guys enjoy with their lights, and can’t help but think we in the planted tank arena are still several generations behind the curve.

Everyone I’ve met in the reef scene wouldn’t bat an eyelid at spending four times what some of us in the planted side spend on a setup. Manufacturers put R&D into products that sell unfortunately.

 

[aquascape1987]

[QUOTE="Geoffrey Rea, post: 584822,Anubias petite directly under 200-300 PAR and thriving... now there’s a mystery for a supposed low light loving plant 😉

#KeepingTheFaith
[/QUOTE]

Hi Geoffrey,

If you don’t mind me asking, what is the trick with this part?

I have all other algae pretty much under control in my scape FINALLY, but the one thing I cannot seem to do is, prevent my Anubias leaves growing significant amounts of green spot Alge (I think) Sometimes, this covering even looks black in places.

 

[Siege]

I always struggle with BBA on Anubias, whatever the light.

That and Buce seem to love consistent co2 (full on or none). I think that maybe the key?

 

[Geoffrey Rea]

If you don’t mind me asking, what is the trick with this part?

That and Buce seem to love consistent co2 (full on or none). I think that maybe the key?

Spot on @Siege

I always try to make Anubias the first thing to get hit with Co2 mist in high light and it hasn’t failed me yet.

Stuff is getting hammered with so much Co2 across its leaves and it’s slow growing. Move it a few inches either way from the misting position it performs really poorly in what is admittedly way too much light. But the over the top light was just for a giggle.

Nerite snails do a good job keeping their leaves clean. Poorly positioned anubius can provide them a consistent food source so in relationship they both provide for each other and they will frequent its leaves.

Not saying this is causative, but more blue light in the spectrum from the ONF units seems to correlate with cleaner leaves and faster growth.

In general have found Anubias and Buce to perform better when added a few months after startup.

Finally, good adherence of the rhizome to whatever surface it’s meant to be attached to is important. As mentioned in other thread though, don’t glue the rhizome, glue a few select roots and trim the remaining roots to stimulate new root growth.

 

[Geoffrey Rea]

Pure speculation this @aquascape1987 but I think once the plant is assured it’s held fast to a surface it can direct more of its resources to leaf growth for light gathering ability rather than root growth. I’m sure @dw1305 , @Mick.Dk and @ceg4048 can impart more wisdom than me regarding the internal plant systems of anubias, more empirical evidence driving these ideas being spouted from myself.

Specimens in the tanks I’ve run, after a year when inspected, all have similar length roots like the plant has stopped that behaviour all at once at some point and the result is extremely similar length roots, followed by a sudden clump of healthy leaf growth. The good thing about documenting on the journals is you can spot sudden growth periods month to month.

Anyway, enough waffle. Hope something in there helps @aquascape1987

 

[Wookii]

Hi Geoffrey,

If you don’t mind me asking, what is the trick with this part?

I have all other algae pretty much under control in my scape FINALLY, but the one thing I cannot seem to do is, prevent my Anubias leaves growing significant amounts of green spot Alge (I think) Sometimes, this covering even looks black in places.

I have no where near the experience of Steve or Geoff, so feel free to take my comments with a pinch of the proverbial, but I’ve had mini outbreaks of BBA, staghorn and GSA (just on my Anubias with the latter).

Seachem Excel has been my go-to every time (direct fogging with a syringe). It cleared the BBA up in no time, it also cleared the staghorn up easily (though that took a little longer).

Neither came back either so I put it down to being a new tank, and maybe some CO2 fluctuation. Plus I now have what almost amounts to infestation levels of Bloody Mary shrimps, so I think any new algae youngling gets devoured before they can even think about growing.

When I’ve recently treated some of the GSA I’ve had with Excel, it seemed to clear most of that up as well. I only get it on the Anubias at the very top of my tank a couple of inches from the surface, and not on those further down the tank.

I have read Excel doesn’t always work on GSA so there may be variants that are more resilient, or it may require stronger application (direct brushing of a solution onto the leaves out of water).

I’ve also read that GSA can be brought on by low phosphate levels, but that’s not the case for me, with EI dosing, but it might be worth enduring your levels are sufficient.

 

[Wookii]

Specimens in the tanks I’ve run, after a year when inspected, all have similar length roots like the plant has stopped that behaviour all at once at some point and the result is extremely similar length roots, followed by a sudden clump of healthy leaf growth. The good thing about documenting on the journals is you can spot sudden growth periods month to month.

I’ve found the exact same cycle Geoff. My Anubias really struggled to start with, I also got some rhizome rot - I think as a result of my poor glueing technique.

After that was dealt with they pushed out loads of roots, but not much in the way of new leaves.

That’s now stopped and the last couple of months I’ve seen massive new leaf growth and rhizome extension. One particular plant has grown a good 3-4 inches across the tank bridging itself between two separate pieces of wood.

 

[Geoffrey Rea]

I have no where near the experience of Steve or Geoff, so feel free to take my comments with a pinch of the proverbial, but I’ve had mini outbreaks of BBA, staghorn and GSA (just on my Anubias with the latter).

That’s because you probably do things other than obsessionally stare into people’s tanks @Wookii 😂

Seachem Excel has been my go-to every time (direct fogging with a syringe). It cleared the BBA up in no time, it also cleared the staghorn up easily (though that took a little longer).

I use glutaraldehyde, hands up here. At heart I think a healthy tank is one that enjoys ‘ample’ o2 day and night and it’s a viable tool to help make that happen by consequence. On the glutaraldehyde side of things here’s what I can add... Consistency with it leads to adaptation from various plants. A lot of the species that are reported to melt with its use have adapted with consistent application from everything I’ve seen personally. Have never seen any general benefit by extending the 1ml per 50l rule @2% concentration other than immediately after a water change.

Plus I now have what almost amounts to infestation levels of Bloody Mary shrimps

Shrimp move detritus off leaves in their day to day movement, not to be overlooked.

 

[Filip Krupa]

Another project?!
I thought you no longer have thyme on your hands!!!! 🤣🤣🤣

 

[Geoffrey Rea]

Not many have bothered looking at that profile pic @Filip Krupa 😂

 

[aquascape1987]

@Siege @Wookii @Geoffrey Rea Thanks for the replies on the Anubias algae guys. Some really interesting stuff on the rooting and attaching element. I too have experienced the same phenomenon with the root and leaf growth trade off. I’ve also attempted to kill/ reduce the algae on the leaves with diluted liquid carbon applied directly during water changes, but am yet to find a low enough concentration that kills the algae, but doesn’t cause the leaf to melt a week or so later.

I thought when I had seen that picture of the plant and the comment about the lighting it was under, that I had stumbled upon some aquascaping secret silver bullet, and could almost hear a euphoric classical music playing in anticipation of a complete eureka moment for me when the reply came back.

I think my issue with it in reality, is poor scape design/positioning choice for the plant on my part. I have always had a lot of it out in the open and getting pummelled by high light, in pretty much all of my scapes for years (forever). I put this down to my own personal inspiration moment that propelled me into the high light/high energy tank hobby, which was stumbling across and being dazzled by a feature of an Amano scape in a PFK edition in 2013, which featured a lot of Anubias in the mid ground. I don’t think ever quite been able to get over it psychologically .😵

 

[aquascape1987]

@Geoffrey Rea I really love what you have done with the EA 1200, and I think that you have just started the brain cogs in motion for my own next aquascaping ‘evil scheme’ seeing what you have done with this tank. My other half will be over the moon, I’m sure 😀 I like the idea of having a go at a sump system, as you mentioned earlier in the thread.

I’m very curious also about why you started off with the rear mounted spray bar before switching to more traditional glass outlets? I love the flow distribution you can achieve with spray bars, but obviously there is the aesthetic negative that comes with using them

 

[Geoffrey Rea]

@Siege @Wookii @Geoffrey Rea Thanks for the replies on the Anubias algae guys. Some really interesting stuff on the rooting and attaching element. I too have experienced the same phenomenon with the root and leaf growth trade off. I’ve also attempted to kill/ reduce the algae on the leaves with diluted liquid carbon applied directly during water changes, but am yet to find a low enough concentration that kills the algae, but doesn’t cause the leaf to melt a week or so later.

Most welcome. Also...

I think my issue with it in reality, is poor scape design/positioning choice for the plant on my part. I have always had a lot of it out in the open and getting pummelled by high light, in pretty much all of my scapes for years (forever).

How would you know the perfect position upfront, especially if things grow in later and change the scape? You’ll notice on these journals I glue Anubias and Bucephalandra to little pebble sized rocks. Firstly you can pick them up and move them if they’re not happy and you can change the composition of the the scape as often as you like.

Also...

I’ve also attempted to kill/ reduce the algae on the leaves with diluted liquid carbon applied directly during water changes, but am yet to find a low enough concentration that kills the algae, but doesn’t cause the leaf to melt a week or so later.

If they’re attached to small rocks you can lift them out. If you make them removable you could try lifting out the affected Anubias, place them in an ice cream tub with some tank water and treat with hydrogen peroxide, then return it to the tank. No risk to livestock and other plants then. Just a thought. But good attachment is mandatory for good health with epiphytes.

I’m very curious also about why you started off with the rear mounted spray bar before switching to more traditional glass outlets?

Basically it’s all that was in. Glassware was unavailable when it was first setup so just used an Eheim/Oase combo of parts to get started. To be fair flow is superior with spraybars as it’s even and offers great circular flow all along the length of the tank... but they’re an eyesore.

I think that you have just started the brain cogs in motion for my own next aquascaping ‘evil scheme’ seeing what you have done with this tank.

Glad to hear it 😉

 

[Geoffrey Rea]

Quick update. Feeding time and some new additions:







Wasn’t sure if Barbs would suit this setup but so far so good. Also the mystery green tetra in the last shot remains a mystery... January Tetra...?

Feel that this setup is over the first few hurdles now and is running steady. Green rocks are starting to abate and the nerites are steadily cleaning them back. Not much to be done with lights being fixed intensity so might as well make it a steady source of food for the snails for now. As things grow in further it will become less and less and will move the nerites on. The riccardia has taken a beasting adapting to the glutaraldehyde, but seems to be adapting and growing out now. Had to abandon a lot of the damaged growth and reattach what is growing back well, but it’s on its way back.

Overall feel there’s some improvements in plant selection to be had.



Trim back last night and the Guyana in the back left corner is proving to be the PITA it was suspected to be at the planting stage. It’s mainly creeping under this lighting and the location would be much better served with a voracious vertical grower like Limnophila Aromatica. Also once the bolbitis takes hold on the right, will need a plant in the back left corner that pretty much skims the surface to keep the triangular layout in shape.

 

[Geoffrey Rea]

One month:



Back left corner Guyana out, kept creeping. Rotala and Ludwigia have both reached the surface and been trimmed whilst the Guyana has been growing out sideways and in circles. Ain’t nobody got time for that. Limnophila Aromatica in its place which should hopefully add the height and colour the corner needs.

Trident fern courtesy of @Siege . Absolute legend and even sorted out a bottle of thin bleach so the glassware could be cleaned. Supermarket has been cleared out with every visit so really appreciate it mate.

A few Pinnatifida attached to the manzanita just below the surface. Possibility of some growth through the surface, but we’ll see:



Fissidens in this tank is doing great:



The Riccardia... not so much:



Could be the glutaraldehyde, but will give it a month and revisit.

Got a Vuppa 2 on order so that will make an appearance soon.



As effective as the Eheim skim is, do want to see how ADA’s version compares.

 

[Gill]

love it, Did you pick out the 1 male and 3 female Odessa's or was that a fluke. He will get even darker as he starts to court the females.

 

[CooKieS]

Nice growth @Geoffrey Rea 😎

 

[Vijay_06]

Evolving nicely! I will follow the thread to see how the scape looks like a few months from now.

What kind of stones are those? Did you just place them on the glass or used something under them to distribute the weight and avoid pressure points on the glass?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rebel]

AS1200 in, level and ready to go.

Two ADA Solar RGB’s and ADA hanging kits on their way.

OMG This should be renamed - Spending my earnings for one decade on decadence... 😉

NICE!!