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New Chihiros RGB Vivid - looks VERY promising

Thanks.
Didn't really want more brightness to be honest will prob run this light at 50% or so. I wanted a pendant style light that I could hang above the tank. Looked into ONF, Twinstar sp etc and for the price the Chihiros worked out the best deal really. Don't get me wrong I'm not dissatisfied with the light it's a great light. it does everything I want.
The app is a breeze to use.
Just the difference isn't as big as I thought it would be given the extra power etc.
 
I think there's a noticeable difference in colour going by your pics but would you say that's a true reflection on the difference in real life or exaggerated by your phone pic settings?
 
Yes I would say it's a true reflection. I just had the light on default settings for the pics. The leds are all rgb so there is all three colour in one led diode. Not like on the Twinstar where there are so many red individual leds so many green and so many blue.
You can alter all 3 colour intensitys independently in the app. So you can pop the reds the blues or the greens if you want by altering the spectrum of the light.
 
Just a little tip Dave when taking photos with the iPhone. If you put some card on the top lip of the tank and rest it on the light you’ll stop the glare which is reducing the contrast on your photos. Should get a better idea of what it looks like then
 
Stu Worrall said:
Just a little tip Dave when taking photos with the iPhone. If you put some card on the top lip of the tank and rest it on the light you’ll stop the glare which is reducing the contrast on your photos. Should get a better idea of what it looks like then
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Also, it’s hard to really do these comparisons on a phone. The software is doing all sorts of processing, post and dynamically on the picture depending on light, movement etc. this is especially true on IPhones with no Manuel settings
 
I bought the new twinstar sa900 (version 2) which is more balanced without the reddish tint that version 1 has .
I haven't tested it yet because scape isn't ready but the light it produces seems amazing . It is stronger than version 1 with 5800 lumens and a dimming controller is a must . I have the s2 controller .
Quality of the metal frame and aesthetics are wonderful imo.

The downside comes to price. It's pretty expensive for aquarium light .
 
Fred13 said:
The downside comes to price. It's pretty expensive for aquarium light .
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I second that, and add the fact that there is no dimmer included or chance to tweak individual RGB leds. Its pretty standard these days, even for much cheaper lights.
 
H.Alves said:
I second that, and add the fact that there is no dimmer included or chance to tweak individual RGB leds. Its pretty standard these days, even for much cheaper lights.
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They are copying the ADA which doesn't include dimmer or colour tuning. Actually color tuning is assumed to be not needed in this sort of light although would be nice! Dimmer should be included but it's not because the light may change color temperature when dimmed. I think the idea is to keep the light very consistent (ADA philosophy) and this fits into their 'system' where if you follow their formula, it will just work.
 
rebel said:
I think the idea is to keep the light very consistent (ADA philosophy) and this fits into their 'system' where if you follow their formula, it will just work.
Click to expand...

I guess so too.. 🙂 Changing color will always cost intensity output.. Than if you would like to have consistant outup with rendering color you would need to over power the setup quite a lot with all colors at 100%.

Technicaly i do not realy see the problem it can be made. Just regarding giving it output specification with color rendering and each color i wouldn't know where to start.

If you look at the Kessil, it only does color rendering with a cool white ad a warm white led chip.. I guess yet nobody realy did test it, but it likely has some PAR shift as well when color is rendered. Since you have to make one color dimmer or brighter to change it. It would take quite some intelligent electronics to render color at same output performance with multi color leds like RGB and White leds in combination.
 
I run mine at around 60%. You just dail each individual colour down to 60% and this reduces the overall intensity and keeps the colour rendition as on full. But obviously not as bright. It is just too bright at 100% it lights the whole room🙂.
I have dropped it to a local firm at the min to have a stainless steel shade made for it to reduce the light overspill. Should get it back middle of next week.
 
Twinstar suggested me to start with 90% and then increase to 100%.

I have the sa900 for 100x50x50 tank.
90 and 100 percent seem very very strong for early stages .
I believe that I will also start with 70% and then slowly move on .
As far as I see when you dim the light all the rgb led go down so the color spectrum doesn't change . The intensity does which is the what we want anyway .
 
Daveslaney said:
I run mine at around 60%. You just dail each individual colour down to 60% and this reduces the overall intensity and keeps the colour rendition as on full. But obviously not as bright. It is just too bright at 100% it lights the whole room🙂.
I have dropped it to a local firm at the min to have a stainless steel shade made for it to reduce the light overspill. Should get it back middle of next week.
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? I had a word with aquasabi and they told me they didn't want to sell it because of the noise the fans do. Is it anything you notice? Could you change the fans to noctua 🙂? Also how did the shading go?
 
Lighting is a very individual thing what each human see's is different and What one person see's color wise is different from another person. The important factor is par out put and what it is for the light. I just did a Par reading on a club members tank and looking at it you would think the light that came with the tank was putting out a good amount of Par but with a meter I was getting 26 Par when I should have been getting 125 par. You would have not been able to tell with the human eye.
On the Freshwater lights there is just not much dimming capability compared to the same price light on the saltwater side. Also integration with a aquarium controller is not a feature which is really handy. Lots of room for freshwater lighting to get better compared to the same priced light in the saltwater hobby.
 
Fred13 said:
Twinstar suggested me to start with 90% and then increase to 100%.
Click to expand...
I use the Twinstar S series and start it on 60%. I've found that it's plenty to grow pretty much anything, healthy and compact. Good CO2 implantation is far more important.
I know AG start at 50% and increase the intensity by 5% every week up to 100%. But they need to get their scapes showroom ready asap.
You need to be top of your game to do it the AG way, since it becomes a race between healthy plant growth and algae infestation.
If you get it right by the time 100% intensity is reached a large and healthy plant biomass effectively inhibits algal growth. But get it wrong and you'll be farming algae on steroids...
 
Interesting reading. I will also appreciate a video of noise from the fans. I worries me that I read a bad feedback do to extreme noise from the fans on aliexpress. Anyway this more like in the category of a assembly fault on that specific product.

Still find it a bit wired, that today there is one review on the lights... the one posted above.

Also an update on how the extended reflector works and was made.

Thanks
 
Sorry I've not been online alot lately. So just caught up on this thread.
Here is a short video I have just done of the noise from the fans with the light at 100%.
To be honest it sounds worse in the video than it actually is, as it's a totally silent room. I would say the noise from the fans is about on par with the noise you would get from your laptop.
It doesn't bother me or the wife in normal situations with the TV on etc. Hope this helps.
 
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