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NA 65cm - Slow Burner

Nice idea for a video. Dont see too many on how to properly clean an aquascape. Well done.

I know you love your red colander and all but have you thought about getting a python???
 
Hi George! I really want to thank you for making this video (eventhough it made me feel like an idiot 😀). I have been battling with algae issues and detritus build-up and just mainly been waiting for problems to solve by themselves. Now I noticed that I have just been plain lazy and not doing my tank maintenance properly! For example I have been waiting for two weeks that I could get to the lfs and buy myself some otocinclus to help with diatoms and cleaning my plants. After watching your video I just had to grab some buckets and clean the tank thoroughly - and it looks way better! Just feel rather stupid that I havent figured this out earlier 😀 I have also always cleaned the tank glasses only AFTER my waterchange - Only God knows why..

Lähetetty minun GT-I9305 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
 
Totally agree with evita makes me feel like i was lazy with maintainence, when set up next aquarium i am going to be more thorough , brilliant helpful vid anyway george, what would you do different with a eheim filter full of media just clean with hands in bucket for a short time ?

Thanks dean
 
Came across this old thread. You know how it goes here, the rabbit hole etc.

I was curious to know how George might have known he had 15-20ppm co2 in his water column?

dhk 4 /bb solution would only change at 30ppm?

Maybe used the ph/k chart?

Anyone have a clue?

I’m curious because I’m thinking of setting up a co2 tank but it seems its a bit of minefield and last time I did it I had terrible issues. I’m thinking maybe just moderate light, moderate fertilisation and therefore, moderate co2.
 
Hi all,
I was curious to know how George might have known he had 15-20ppm co2 in his water column?
dhk 4 /bb solution would only change at 30ppm?

Maybe used the ph/k chart?
I don't know what @George Farmer did, but you could use a 2dKH solution in your drop checker and then it would go green (~pH 7) at approx. 15 ppm CO2. Former member Marcel G ran some experiments at ~15ppm CO2 @jaypeecee may know if they are <"on his web site?">

Got them: <"Akvaristika">

cheers Darrel
 
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Thanks as always Darrel. (Seasons best wishes to you , all mods and members by the way)

That website looks amazing. I shall enjoy having a good rummage around there later.

2dKH seems the perfect solution (pardon the pun). Would you have one of your remarkable links to how one can make it/ buy it, without requiring access to lab equipment and a degree or two in chemistry and physics?

(The website may contain instructions of course)

kindest

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Hi all,
Thanks as always Darrel.
and traditional seasonal greeting to you too.
That website looks amazing. I shall enjoy having a good rummage around there later.
As a forum we had a bit of a falling out with Marcel, which was a shame as he has / had a lot to offer (as his web-site shows).
2dKH seems the perfect solution (pardon the pun). Would you have one of your remarkable links to how one can make it/ buy it,
The simplest way is just to buy some ready made up "4 dKH" solution and dilute it 50 : 50 with RO water. You may need to add a dash more <"bromothymol blue"> indicator. I'm not a CO2 user, but if I was? I would buy 500g of food grade sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3) for pennies and a bottle of bromothymol blue (from ebay) for £10.

Via <"James' Planted Tank"> "1.5g NaHCO3 in 25 litres of water = 2 dKH". The "proper" calculation is on Larry Frank's incredibly <"useful Krib page"> or @_Maq_ 's water hardness article - <"Some handy facts about water">.

cheers Darrel
 
That’s a shame there was a falling out.

I’m afraid the suggestions for buying chemicals etc. are really out of my depth as are the links. They just pose more questions in my little brain for which it would be unreasonable of me to expect you , or anybody else to expect to answer.

I would essentially have to be spoon-fed instructions in a step by step fashion to even have a chance. I’m perhaps one of those that needs to have it spelled out , learns slowly and is easily frustrated. For example, in an attempt to refresh myself with the workings of the regulator and its connections neither George in his video nor indeed the manufacturers official videos makes reference to little rubber gaskets being used and yet I know they are used and needed. They sell them on their website ! Grrrrrrrr

Maybe I’ll try just experiment eventually with a plant only or empty tank by adding co2 and looking for the bubble rate at which the colour change first becomes detectable after a certain amount of hours and then just halve that. It’s all I can think of.
The idea is to allow the plants to gain some moderate benefit from co2 without going full-on ‘bubbling cauldron of photon-blasted soup’ , mixing ferts. and ending up in a pickle. I love planted tanks but if that’s what’s required? - I‘ll take up golf instead. I’ll quite happily right off the £ invested in the co2 kit for an easier life.

peace

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Having pondered this more, I think George explains his rationale here a bit more;


(I’ve no doubt this has been posted a million times elsewhere)

So, bottle of drop checker solution (comprised of pre-mixed 4dKH water and B.Blue indicator reagent) - check.

RO water - think my LFS will sell me a litre if I ask nicely

Extra B.Blue as provided in a widely used low range pH test kit - check (incidentally, I could find no other readily available sources of B.Blue without contemplating approaching a dedicated chemical supply company)-check

Test tubes/beakers with calibration markers and pipettes/syringe with similar - check

I totally get what your saying about long -term economics of bulk raw materials Darrel, but I’m not quite ready to be making my own specific dKH base solution yet. I’m curious to test co2 augmentation as I happen to have the gear from a previous, more gung-ho version of myself a few years ago but can’t really ever see it as something I would risk on anything other than plant-only tanks, say for grow out/propogation purposes.
Either way, most grateful for pointing me in the right direction.
I find a lot of this science and equipment , at least for me, reminds me of typical early driving lessons. You’re so consumed with the pedals, gears and indicators that what’s actually going on beyond the windscreen is hard to focus on initially .There are no dual pedal/instructor co2 rigs in aquatics though.

Many thanks, as always D

kind regards

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Hi all,
I totally get what your saying about long -term economics of bulk raw materials Darrel, but I’m not quite ready to be making my own specific dKH base solution yet.
I understand that, if I want a couple of drops of "bromothymol blue" pH indicator, or any non-obscure chemical salt, I just go to the chemical store <"in the lab."> and retrieve it, it is a lot easier for me.

cheers Darrel
 
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Aqua Rebell makes two solutions for drop checkers, one for 20 ppm CO2 and the other for 30 ppm.
You can find them on Aquasabi, but I don't know if they still ship to UK and how much it will cost. It may be pricey if you only need that.
 
Aqua Rebell makes two solutions for drop checkers, one for 20 ppm CO2 and the other for 30 ppm.
You can find them on Aquasabi, but I don't know if they still ship to UK and how much it will cost. It may be pricey if you only need that.
Many thanks. That’s an excellent, easy long term option.

Sadly, Aquasabi do not appear to ship here.

However, the drop checker is available on Amazon (edit) ‘and Olibetta for much less’. Not cheap but last a lifetime I expect. I’m very tempted.

kind regards

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