• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

Kh dropping

ScareCrow

Member
Joined
28 Jan 2019
Messages
629
Location
South west
Hi all,

Sorry in advance for the essay.
I recently lost all of my neocaridina shrimp, which I'm putting down to the Kh dropping.
For context:
. I use rainwater in all of my tanks, which normally has a kh of 2-3 and Gh of 4-5.
. After noticing I'd not seen any shrimp for a while I pulled some of the plants but found no shrimp, not even bodies/exoskeletons.
. The snail shells in the tank, tend to be quite pale and are often pitted.
. The raccoon tiger shrimp I have, which are caridinia are fine.
. My tank kh is currently 0. This is the same across all of my tanks.
. All but one are pond soil capped with silica sand, no CO². The 'one' is just silica sand and no CO².
. Three days ago I tried doing a couple of small water changes on one tank using a mix of rain and tap water to gradually raise the kh. The mixed water had a kh of 3 and I also added a small handful of crushed coral gravel to gradually leach some additional kh.
. The kh is still reading 0 in the tank.
. The only other inhabitants of the tanks are corys and one female kribensis.
. All tanks have a manufacture stated 10x turn over so slightly less than 10x but not under filtered.
. I found this thread about plants using kh as a CO² source but my tanks are quite heavily stocked with fish and although dense with plants they're all low light slow growing plants, so not super CO² hungry and I'd thought the fish would respire enough CO² to at least partially satisfy demand.
. The other odd thing is the tub I use to culture black worms has a kh of 4 but has the same setup as my tanks with the only difference being that it has flint gravel rather than silica sand. I'm not suggesting the sand is absorbing kh, just find it odd that the tub differs so much.

Thanks for reading this far and if you have any suggestions about how I could stabilise kh (I've read the threads on dosing and also using chick grit, which I'm tempted to add to my water butt). I'd ideally like a fairly hands off approach that will result in a stable kh that's around 3-4. I'm sure that's like asking for peace on earth and an end to famine but if you don't ask right :lol:

thanks all.
 
It could be related to an increase in decaying organic matter in the tanks, due to their age. In that case, a good cleaning would help . I have something similar happening and I'm assuming some of my wood pieces are to blame, since they started to decay.
 
Thanks for your reply @LMuhlen one tank is just plants the others have small twigs. I do a filter/substrate clean once a month.
 
Hi all,
I recently lost all of my neocaridina shrimp, which I'm putting down to the Kh dropping.
For context:
. I use rainwater in all of my tanks, which normally has a kh of 2-3 and Gh of 4-5.
I'm pretty sure that was how <"I lost mine">.
. After noticing I'd not seen any shrimp for a while I pulled some of the plants but found no shrimp, not even bodies/exoskeletons.
. The snail shells in the tank, tend to be quite pale and are often pitted.
Because I have really hard, alkaline tap water, which is <"consistent throughout the year">, I've been using that as my <"remineralising agent"> and the <"Ramshorn snail">, <"snail-shell index"> as my indication of when to add some tap water.

cheers Darrel
 
Because I have really hard, alkaline tap water, which is <"consistent throughout the year">, I've been using that as my <"remineralising agent"> and the <"Ramshorn snail">, <"snail-shell index"> as my indication of when to add some tap water.
I think this is what I will need to do. It just goes against the grain to use terrible Bristol tap water now :lol:
Do you know if it is plants processing carbonates to create CO²? I'd like to avoid fluctuations in kh. Preferably so I can get more neocaridina but even if I got more caridinia I imagine they'll not appreciate the fluctuating kh.
 
Hi all,
I think this is what I will need to do. It just goes against the grain to use terrible Bristol tap water now.
At work (just W. of Bath) it is <"Bristol Water">, which is more variable than the <"water at home"> (N. Wiltshire), but it should do the job. You aren't going to need very much.

I think that the state of the <"snail shells"> is actually quite a sensitive metric. Once you find a level of snail shell attrition that your Cherry Shrimps are happy with you could either add a small amount of tap water every week (a bit like EI) or wait until the shells start to show some attrition and add some tap water then (a bit like the Duckweed Index).
CDo you know if it is plants processing carbonates to create CO²? I'd like to avoid fluctuations in kh.
Possibly, but the plants should have more access to CO2, and that is the <"kinetically efficient form" of <"Total Inorganic Carbon"> (TIC) for photosynthesis.

I think the main routes of <"carbonate hardness loss"> are likely to be <"microbial nitrification"> and incorporation <"into snail shells">. The problem is that you just have fewer Ca++ and 2HCO3- ions to start off with in the winter.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all,

At work (just W. of Bath) it is <"Bristol Water">, which is more variable than the <"water at home"> (N. Wiltshire), but it should do the job. You aren't going to need very much.

I think that the state of the <"snail shells"> is actually quite a sensitive metric. Once you find a level of snail shell attrition that your Cherry Shrimps are happy with you could either add a small amount of tap water every week (a bit like EI) or wait until the shells start to show some attrition and add some tap water then (a bit like the Duckweed Index).

Possibly, but the plants should have more access to CO2, and that is the <"kinetically efficient form" of <"Total Inorganic Carbon"> (TIC) for photosynthesis.

I think the main routes of <"carbonate hardness loss"> are likely to be <"microbial nitrification"> and incorporation <"into snail shells">. The problem is that you just have fewer Ca++ and 2HCO3- ions to start off with in the winter.

cheers Darrel
Thanks Darrel, I did go on a bit of a rain water 'quality' improvement drive when trying to breed my corydoras eques so tds, gh and kh are all lower than normal.
 
Back
Top