• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

Jungle aquascape

Since planting my Rotala wallichii I've read that it does not do well in hard water. I'm hoping to pick up some more stems on Friday. Do I abort and replace the wallichii, or see how they get on? Am I flogging a dead horse?

If abort, any recommendations? Something similar in form and colour?
 
Update - 1 week in

I've been doing 50% water changes every other day and have today upped the lighting ever so slightly to RGBW 45:45:45:40, still for seven hours including a 30 min ramp up and down. Some of the plants have visibly grown - the Echinodorus sunset has grown three new red leaves already! The Limnophila is also doing well, as expected. The stems in general have all grown a little - the Rotala is growing to some extent. My Crypts seem to be in reasonable shape as well - have lost the odd leaf, but haven't melted yet.

I've been struggling to get the CO2 levels right. I have been running at 4bps and still can't get a full drop of one pH - most seems to be around a half point drop. My drop checker is deep green, which the bottle says is perfect, but it is not the lime green people seem to say is the sweet spot. I have this morning upped it to around 5bps. This is above George Farmer's recommendation of 1 bps per 20 gal, so do I keep going? I am currently Lean Dosing my fertilisers, dosing alternate days.

I have stuffed some more plants in there too, adding:

  • a bit more Limnophila
  • Anubias heterophyla
  • Alternanthera cardinalis variegata (as back up for the Rotala wallichii
  • Salvinia minima (and also some red root floaters, which don't seem to be taking well and sit underneath the water's surface)

I have also added a peace lily.

Testing:

I got super confused about whether I needed a test kit or not. Decided it can't hurt to have one, at least to begin with. Test results for yesterday:

Ammonia - 0.5ppm
Nitrite - 1-2ppm
Nitrate - 40ppm
kH - 9 (I think)
Phosphate - 4.3ppm
pH - 7.55 to 7.11 (pen) and 7 to 6.5 (test kit)

Do these look reasonable for one week in? I have been adding beneficial bacteria and conditioner after each water change.

Highlights:

I'm loving the Echinodorus sunset and the Hydrocotyle leucocephala! I also look the little streams of oxygen bubbles some of the plants give off.

Lowlights:

I am wiping off a layer of limescale/scum from the glass most days. Could get tedious.

Hope everyone has a great weekend!

20230128_124003.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20230128_123947.jpg
    20230128_123947.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 120
  • 20230128_124019.jpg
    20230128_124019.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 126
  • 20230128_143439.jpg
    20230128_143439.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 125
You need to stop worrying about BPS. It really doesn’t apply to larger tanks and since every setup is different, bubble rates will vary greatly. Keep increasing the rate until you see the change you’re looking for, don’t stall because you are seeking a specific bubble count, you’ll go mad as I’m sure you’re already experiencing. I’ve been there too, just keep increasing little by little until you see that lime green, you won’t mistake it when you see it.
 
@Mr.Shenanagins is spot on. Bubble rate is not a reliable measurement across tanks as equipment and therefore bubble size vary. Just increase your bps it until your drop checker hits the colour you want and stays there.
You might also consider moving your drop checker to a different location to see if you get your colour change there. If you do, then you have a flow/distribution problem which can be remedied by changing position of flow pumps or adding more.
 
You need to stop worrying about BPS. It really doesn’t apply to larger tanks and since every setup is different, bubble rates will vary greatly. Keep increasing the rate until you see the change you’re looking for, don’t stall because you are seeking a specific bubble count, you’ll go mad as I’m sure you’re already experiencing. I’ve been there too, just keep increasing little by little until you see that lime green, you won’t mistake it when you see it.
@Mr.Shenanagins is spot on. Bubble rate is not a reliable measurement across tanks as equipment and therefore bubble size vary. Just increase your bps it until your drop checker hits the colour you want and stays there.
You might also consider moving your drop checker to a different location to see if you get your colour change there. If you do, then you have a flow/distribution problem which can be remedied by changing position of flow pumps or adding more.
Sorry for late reply - had a mad week at work. Thanks for your replies.

That's all noted regarding bubbles - guess I was tuned into the starting point recommended in a book or two. Anyway, I upped the CO2 - too fast to count - but I feel that I might have hit the sweet spot. The drop checker (other side of tank near the back) is now a nice grass green and the plants are pearling nicely, but not crazily.

My pH drop goes from 8.06pH (degassed for 24hrs) down to 6.84pH come the early evening. I plan to measure the drop more closely this weekend.

Ammonia - 0ppm
Nitrite - 2ppm

I have today noticed a small amount of green algae, which brushes off easily. I only managed one water change this week because of work, which might have played a part.

Plan to keep lighting and feeding the same for now, unless someone advises differently.

Thanks again

Mark

PS: My Rotala wallichi (in the photo) seems to be growing! Thought that might have shrivelled and died.
 

Attachments

  • CO2 .jpg
    CO2 .jpg
    281.4 KB · Views: 133
  • 20230203_183111.jpg
    20230203_183111.jpg
    715.5 KB · Views: 111
Got some diatoms and a bit of string algae, but am getting a clean-up crew to help shortly. The tank is cycled now with zero Ammonia and Nitrite.

I am still lean dosing with @Happi's Solufeed suggestion. Some plants are growing very well, others seem to be taking longer to get going which I'm guessing is them laying down roots. When would I go for EI dosing? When there is a greater plant mass?

The Echinodorus Sunset has sent out multiple leaves that are three times the size of the originals and have a more reddish hue. Is this a result of CO2? I've attached a few photos of other plants in case anyone can spot anything wrong that might need addressing.

Thanks all

Mark
 

Attachments

  • 20230211_125255.jpg
    20230211_125255.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 115
  • 20230211_125321.jpg
    20230211_125321.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 100
  • 20230211_125328.jpg
    20230211_125328.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 107
  • 20230211_125400.jpg
    20230211_125400.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 105
Hi all,
The Echinodorus Sunset has sent out multiple leaves that are three times the size of the originals and have a more reddish hue. Is this a result of CO2?
Yes, they look good, <"CO2 and / or more nutrients">. It isn't a plant I've grown, but I'm going to assume the "Sunset" name applies to the reddish colouring.
I've attached a few photos of other plants in case anyone can spot anything wrong that might need addressing.
When would I go for EI dosing?
No not really, they look fine. Just keep an eye on the leaves of the Hydrocotyle, if they become smaller and / or paler. If the old leaves pale it is lack of a mobile nutrient <"and probably nitrogen (N)">, if it is the new leaves then <"iron (Fe) is the likely"> limiting nutrient.

cheers Darrel
 
I am still lean dosing with @Happi's Solufeed suggestion. Some plants are growing very well, others seem to be taking longer to get going which I'm guessing is them laying down roots. When would I go for EI dosing? When there is a greater plant mass?
keep on dosing the recommended doses for now. with Aqua soil at the bottom, I don't think you will ever need to go above the recommended doses.

The Echinodorus Sunset has sent out multiple leaves that are three times the size of the originals and have a more reddish hue. Is this a result of CO2? I've attached a few photos of other plants in case anyone can spot anything wrong that might need addressing.
in some plant there seems to be some Minor Fe Deficiency. but lets give some time to the plants before we start digging into that.
 
No not really, they look fine. Just keep an eye on the leaves of the Hydrocotyle, if they become smaller and / or paler. If the old leaves pale it is lack of a mobile nutrient <"and probably nitrogen (N)">, if it is the new leaves then <"iron (Fe) is the likely"> limiting nutrient.
Thanks, Darrel. The Hydrocotyle is flying at the moment, but will keep an eye out.
keep on dosing the recommended doses for now. with Aqua soil at the bottom, I don't think you will ever need to go above the recommended doses.
Thanks, @Happi. Will keep doing what I'm doing for now then.
in some plant there seems to be some Minor Fe Deficiency. but lets give some time to the plants before we start digging into that
Like what out of interest? From a learning POV. The only thing I've noticed is the plant attached is growing leaves more lime green than the older ones. Can't remember what this is actually. Think it is the Hygrophila angustifolia. The crypts are all sending new growth, brasiliensis sending out runners. Some of the abubias have melted somewhat.
 

Attachments

  • 20230211_125328.jpg
    20230211_125328.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 122
Really happy with how things are going and looking! Still getting diatoms, but am keeping on top of them and have introduced a small squad of Amanos, which I'll increase over time. Planning to try some PhosGuard in my filter. Also introduced six Black Neons, which have seemed pretty happy for the last week. Little bit of breeding behaviour displayed with one of them shimmering in front of another every now and then.

I have also moved a few things around and am much happier with the layout now. And finally got myself a Nymphaea Lotus, which I'm happy about.

I've removed the Rotala wallichii as I don't think it will look like it should in my hard water. Have bunched it up and will probably give away at some point.

I do think some of the plants are lacking Fe. The hygrophila new leaves are definitely paler than their predecessors, so I'd like to start dosing some iron. I'm still confused by the EI calculator, but have seen Solufeed do some chelated irons. Can I buy one of these? Or would something like Seachem Flourish Iron be best?

And the cat has discovered the livestock. Hoping he doesn't go beyond watching them intently!

Have a great weekend!
 

Attachments

  • 20230217_173348.jpg
    20230217_173348.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 109
  • 20230216_174859.jpg
    20230216_174859.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 112
  • 20230217_173507.jpg
    20230217_173507.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 93
  • 20230217_173404.jpg
    20230217_173404.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 92
  • 20230217_173527.jpg
    20230217_173527.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 102
  • 20230217_181038.jpg
    20230217_181038.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 101
but have seen Solufeed do some chelated irons. Can I buy one of these? Or would something like Seachem Flourish Iron be best?
Yes solufeed Dtpa 11% Iron would work, 1kg would last you a lifetime.


Alternatively if you don't want to shell out £18.25 you could get this (£5.95 for 100g) which will still work out much, much, much cheaper than flourish Iron.

 
Yes solufeed Dtpa 11% Iron would work, 1kg would last you a lifetime.
Great, thanks John. Will get some! If I was to mix up 500ml, how would I calculate how much to add and then dose? Or can you point me towards a place I can work it out?
 
If I was to mix up 500ml, how would I calculate how much to add and then dose?
Better to add into your current mix, but I don't know how many millimeters you currently add.

For a stand alone mix in a 500ml bottle adding 2g, a dose of 10ml to a 300L tank would add 0.01 ppm Fe.
 
Hi @John q

I am currently using @Happi 's Solufeed experiment, which seems to be working so far - 30ml per week. Aside from some slightly lime coloured leaves, everything is doing fairly well - plants are growing and pearling under CO2. I am broadly using the below, but have the macros and micros in separate bottles, adding 5ml of each per day which I think takes me just over the below measures.

500 ml solution, 20 ml per 50 gallon
Add 31.545 Gram Solufeed 2:1:4
Add 5.721 gram
Solufeed Sodium Free TEC

N 1 (Urea-N 0.466 ppm, NO3-N 0.54 ppm) this adds about 2.4 ppm NO3, Rest of the N is from Urea
P 0.2
K 1.766
Fe 0.11166
Mn 0.02818
Cu 0.003446
B 0.0125
Zn 0.019
Mo 0.002146
Mg 0.1266

If I was to add 8g of Fe DTPA to a fresh micros mix batch and continued with the same dose each day (5ml), am I right in thinking this would add an extra 0.12ppm Fe taking me to a weekly dose of 0.23ppm? Would this be a reasonable amount to add?
 
If I was to add 8g of Fe DTPA to a fresh micros mix batch and continued with the same dose each day (5ml), am I right in thinking this would add an extra 0.12ppm Fe taking me to a weekly dose of 0.23ppm? Would this be a reasonable amount to add?

If you're following somebody's recipe then I really don't want to make suggestions as to how you alter it, simple reason for this is by doing so we never get to find out if the original recipe worked.
It can also get a little confusing when several floks suggest different dosing approaches.

I can however confirm that adding 8g to a 500ml container will yield 0.12ppm fe for every 20ml dosed. If you're adding 30ml a week this would add 0.18ppm fe in a 300L tank.

I'm unsure if you add 20 or 30ml per week.
 
If you're following somebody's recipe then I really don't want to make suggestions as to how you alter it, simple reason for this is by doing so we never get to find out if the original recipe worked.
Fair enough. @Happi has been super helpful, but dont want to ignore other people's help as well as there is lots of experience here. I'm still learning, but my water is pretty hard so was wondering whether the Fe is not available or something and therefore needs a stronger chelate?

Noob error? My thinking was I have diatoms and a sandy substrate > the diatoms feed off Silicates > Phosguard removes Silicates > so by adding it I'd reduce diatoms? I haven't actually ordered any yet, so would you suggest not to bother?

My preference was to get some otocinclus, but I've been advised to wait a few months due to their sensitivities.

I agree, they're a great little fish. Will be getting some more.
 
Back
Top