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Is EI enough?

We have had people here with poor plant growth with CO2 & light acceptable and find out they are dosing macro and micro at the same time and plants suffering Fe deficiency. Dosing alternate days started to cure their issues.
It's very easy being brainwashed. It's a whole new science.
Sometimes we are making wrong conclusions from what we see (or think we see) in our tanks. And this appears to be the case.
How did you come to the conclusion that adding trace elements the same day as macroelements causes problems with iron availability? What did you based this conclusion on? Any facts? Any scientific (= rigorous) experiments? Many scientists I know add trace elements with macroelements into their test tanks (in hydroponics) ... without any problems! So why are we advised to do otherwise? To back this advise up on our subjective observations is very poor reason. Why are we repeating this myths again and again, without making any effort to verify if it's true?

Some facts about (iron) chelates:

Chelating agents (special organic compounds) "wrap" iron ions, thereby making them invisible for other anions in solution (with whom they would otherwise form a stable salts), and at the same time available to plants.
Chelates are composed of a negatively charged organic complex and a positively charged cation (such as Fe+2 or Fe+3). Chelate caughts iron "into claws."
chelat.png

As long as the cation (e.g. iron) is locked in the chelate, it resists the attacks of various anions (e.g. hydroxides or phosphates), which would otherwise (if it was outside the chelate) readily and promptly combine with it to form insoluble compounds (precipitates).

How much "invisible" the iron in the chelate is, depends primarily on the:
→ strength of a particular chelate
→ pH of the solution (typically associated with alkalinity)
→ temperature
→ irradiation (light intensity)
chelat_jak_funguje.png

Types of chelates:
sipka_5g.png
Fe-gluconate → weakest chelating complex (able to maintain iron in a soluble form in the solution up to 1 day)
sipka_5g.png
Fe-EDTA → usable at pH 5 to 6.0, tend to have problems with high concentrations of calcium and magnesium
sipka_5g.png
Fe-DTPA → usable at pH 5.0 to 6.8, is probably the best choice
sipka_5g.png
Fe-HEEDTA → usable at pH 5.0 to 7.0
sipka_5g.png
Fe-EDDHA → usable at pH pH 5.0 to 9.0, despite the strong bond with iron in hydroponic solution it easily degrades
sipka_5g.png
Fe-EDDHMA → stable up to pH 11.0
→ Fe-EDDHA and Fe-EDDHMA discolorate water to pink or brown at the concentrations as low as 0.2 ppm Fe!

In each commercial mixture of microelements some of the above iron chelates are usually used.
Unfortunately, not all manufacturers state on the product labels what chelates are used in their stock solutions.
sipka_5g.png
Seachem uses exclusively the weak Fe-gluconate complex
sipka_5g.png
Easy-Life uses reportedly Fe+2, which would also indicate the use of Fe-gluconate
sipka_5g.png
Tropica uses Fe-DTPA and Fe-HEEDTA → best choice among the commertial products!
ok.png

sipka_5g.png
Sera and Tetra use supposedly FeCl (i.e. no chelate?)
sipka_5g.png
In Plantex CSM+B mix there's Fe-EDTA
sipka_5g.png
In Tenso Cocktail mix there's Fe-EDTA and Fe-DTPA
sipka_5g.png
In MicroMix+ mixture there's Fe-gluconate, Fe-EDTA, Fe-DTPA and Fe-EDDHMA → best DIY choice!
ok.png


As I mention above, usability (stability) of particular chelates depends not only on pH, but also on the temperature and light intensity (irradiation). For this reason the real usability of chelates is usually lower than commonly stated (e.g. Fe-DTPA should be theoretically stable up to pH 7.5, although under normal conditions it may start to degrade even at a lower pH). If we put the chelate solution into the refrigerator (where there is dark and very low temperature), the chelate may stay in the solution even for weeks or months. But as soon as we put the chelate into the tank, where there is higher temperature and relatively high intensity of light, it immediately begins to degrade and release the iron ions into the water, that without protection of chelates awaits they rapid oxidation and precipitation (see the picture). Therefore, one-time application of the chelated iron does not by itself guarantee continuous supply of iron, and logically it won't protect us against the formation of precipitates – a process which is essentially inevitable in the aquarium regardless of the chelate we use.
en_zelezo_degradace_chelatu_1.jpg

Picture: Concentrated stock solution of fertilizer with Fe-EDTA chelate irradiated with 500 µmol.m-2.s-1.

en_zelezo_degradace_chelatu_2.jpg

Picture: Concentrated stock solution of fertilizer with Fe-DTPA chelate irradiated with 250 and 500 µmol.m-2.s-1.

Regarding the susceptibility of iron to bind to other anions in solution (e.g. PO4-- or OH-) forming insoluble precipitates (e.g. Fe2(PO4)3 or Fe(OH)3), this applies only to oxidized iron (Fe+3), that is freely available in water or is being released from the degrading chelate. As long as the iron is locked in the chelate, it won't bind to other compounds.

If thus iron precipitates in our water, it may be caused by:
  • gradual degradation of chelates by light, temperature and pH (or possibly other biotic factors)
  • the use of too weak chelates in solution with higher pH
How to (partially) avoid precipitation of iron:
  • by using as low pH as possible (which is not always possible in the aquarium)
  • by using a sufficiently strong chelates (ideally DTPA)
  • by continuous dosing regime (rather smaller amounts but more often)
 
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Hi all

Just one doubt: why most of the DIY mixes and commercial micro fertilizers use the less effective iron forms instead of using for example Fe-DTPA which seems to be the optimum? Is a matter of price?
Only Tropica knew this??? Another thing: which micromix do you mean? I guess it is a concrete brand, isn't it?

Jordi
 
That's going to need to be read a few times for me to understand it!!

Fwiw, I was using tnc complete. With stable co2 and medium/high light I was seeing signs of iron deficiency.
In the absence of knowing any better, and advice received in this thread... http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/using-up-tnc-complete-before-switching-to-ei.37417/

I assumed that the dosing of everything together may contribute towards this problem.

Am I incorrect?
 
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Hi all

Just one doubt: why most of the DIY mixes and commercial micro fertilizers use the less effective iron forms instead of using for example Fe-DTPA which seems to be the optimum? Is a matter of price?
Only Tropica knew this??? Another thing: which micromix do you mean? I guess it is a concrete brand, isn't it?

Jordi

The so called DIY mixes are actually not DIY because you don't mix it yourself. They are off-the-shelf "ready-mix" products for terrestrial plants sold by vendors in planted aquarium business. Most of these products use EDTA iron, perhaps to keep price low or they are meant to use in foliar feeding.

The reason to use gluconate in some commercial "aquatic" brands are clearly not to keep price low because this chelator is more expensive than DTPA. Their reasons to use it are it's easier/faster for plant to uptake and the iron can stay in Fe+2 form instead of Fe+3 in other chelators.
 
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The reason to use gluconate in some commercial "aquatic" brands are clearly not to keep price low because this chelator is more expensive than DTPA. Their reasons to use it are it's easier/faster for plant to uptake and the iron can stay in Fe+2 form instead of Fe+3 in other chelators.
There was a discussion to this issue at krib some years ago:
http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Fertilizer/gluconate.html
Seachem believes that Fe-gluconate is much better uptaken then other kinds of chelates, so they use solely this complex in their fertilizers. I don't think Fe-gluconate is that much better then other chelates, especially under the average conditions in our tanks (see my previous post about Fe-chelates). Fe-gluconate won't last more than 1 day in our tanks.
 
As long as the cation (e.g. iron) is locked in the chelate, it resists the attacks of various anions (e.g. hydroxides or phosphates), which would otherwise (if it was outside the chelate) readily and promptly combine with it to form insoluble compounds (precipitates).

How much "invisible" the iron in the chelate is, depends primarily on the:
→ strength of a particular chelate
→ pH of the solution (typically associated with alkalinity)
→ temperature
→ irradiation (light intensity)
.

Hi, Ardjuna. I did my iron EDTA iron solution with tap water (very soft, less than 1 dkh). Do you know if the chelate will degrade before I use all solution content ? It lasts for about 20 days. Thank you.
 
I did my iron EDTA iron solution with tap water (very soft, less than 1 dkh). Do you know if the chelate will degrade before I use all solution content ? It lasts for about 20 days.
Do you see any precipitate in the bottle? If so, then your iron had already degraded (break down) and is not in the chelate any more. If there is no precipitate in the stock solution then your iron is probably still in the chelate and is usable. From what I have said in my post about chelates, it's always a good idea to store the stock solution in the refrigerator (in cold and dark), as the higher the temperature and the stronger the light, the earlier the chelate will break down and precipitate. Also the higher the pH of the water you use for the preparation of your stock solution, the worse ... so try to use destilled water whenever possible (or add some acid into your water to lower the pH of your tap water).
 
Do you see any precipitate in the bottle? If so, then your iron had already degraded (break down) and is not in the chelate any more. If there is no precipitate in the stock solution then your iron is probably still in the chelate and is usable. From what I have said in my post about chelates, it's always a good idea to store the stock solution in the refrigerator (in cold and dark), as the higher the temperature and the stronger the light, the earlier the chelate will break down and precipitate. Also the higher the pH of the water you use for the preparation of your stock solution, the worse ... so try to use destilled water whenever possible (or add some acid into your water to lower the pH of your tap water).

Alright. But I think my solution is good because there isn't any precipitate at the bottom. I use tap water because it's very soft (63 TDS) so it isn't so different than RO water. I had no idea about the solution ph. The iron EDTA tends to low the ph?
 
Sometimes we are making wrong conclusions from what we see (or think we see) in our tanks. And this appears to be the case.
How did you come to the conclusion that adding trace elements the same day as macroelements causes problems with iron availability? What did you based this conclusion on? Any facts? Any scientific (= rigorous) experiments? Many scientists I know add trace elements with macroelements into their test tanks (in hydroponics) ... without any problems! So why are we advised to do otherwise? To back this advise up on our subjective observations is very poor reason. Why are we repeating this myths again and again, without making any effort to verify if it's true?

I dont think this is just a myth or is not based in any evidence. Until proven otherwise its a good idea to advise people to dose on alternate days because its not hard to do at all. I myself dose in the same day everything without any bad effect but I dose a lot more than EI.
 
I dont think this is just a myth or is not based in any evidence. Until proven otherwise its a good idea to advise people to dose on alternate days...
I thought it a bit differently (maybe I said it in a wrong way). I think that if someone doses macro and micro elements on the same day and gets precipitates, this does not prove that all iron chelates will behave the same way. There may be a couple of reasons why he/she gets precipitates when dosing macro and micro elements the same day. The most obvious one is the use of wrong Fe-chelate (i.e. too weak iron chelate used under high pH). When you use Fe-DTPA I'm quite sure you won't get any precipitates in your tank ... even under very high dosages (like 1 ppm Fe). On the other hand, when you use Fe-gluconate in your microelement mix, then I guarantee you will have precipitates in your tank the next day after you apply your dose. If you apply small enough amount of iron, then you may not notice the precipitation, but if you apply high enough dose, the rusty precipitates will be just everywhere (mainly on plants and filter).
Look at this picture: http://www.prirodni-akvarium.cz/img/experimenty/test_fe_srovnani_3d_rostliny.png (35.7 MB !!!)
Legend: 1st tank = Fe-gluconate, 2nd tank = Fe-EDTA, 3rd tank = Fe-DTPA, 4th tank = Fe-DTPA + Fe-EDDHMA, 5th tank = Fe-gluconate + Fe-EDTA + Fe-DTPA + Fe-EDDHMA (the dose divided into 7 smaller subdoses). I put 0.9 ppm Fe into each tank (in the 5th tank I dosed 1/7 each day instead). The picture is taken on the 3rd day after I applied the dose, although the same results were already seen on the second day, and did not change in the following days.

So my conclusion: If you dose macro and micro elements on the same day while experiencing problems with precipitation (or iron deficiency), then you do something wrong. It's not about the Fe, it's about wrong method! Either you use wrong Fe-chelate under your pH, or you do some other mistake. Fe-gluconate is not meant to be dosed just once a week, because this complex (it's not even a chelate!) won't last in your tank more than one day. Fe-EDTA and Fe-EDDHMA are also not as good choice under normal conditions, as most of it will precipitate in your tanks the next day after you add it. You would need to have a very low pH, low light and low temperature in your tank for these chelates to last more than one day. The best choice so far seems to be Fe-DTPA as this chelate seems to be the most stable one under our conditions. So if you use Fe-DTPA in our tank, then you can apply it just once a week. Other iron chelates are best to be added on daily basis ... if you want to get most (or at least something) of it.
So again, there is no reason why you should not to combine Fe with PO4 (or other macroelements) ... if your Fe is still in the chelate. Because if the iron is in the chelate it is in safe (no PO4 can cause it to precipitate!). Whenever the PO4 can react with Fe to form precipitates, is when the Fe gets out of the chelate. And this can happen only if the chelate breaks down by too high pH, too high light, or too high temperature. If you use Fe-DTPA then there is no way for PO4 (or other anions) to react with it even under very high concentrations (like 10 ppm PO4).
 
One more note:
Even if you dose Fe-gluconate (or other weak Fe-chelates) just once a week you may not experience any iron deficiency problems, because the iron is a trace elements, so our plants need just a little bit of it to grow well. Once I calculated than in a high-tech tank with very strong light, high CO2 levels + high other nutrient levels, the real Fe consumption is about 0.005 ppm per week. So even when you pump 1 ppm Fe weekly into your tank, your plants probably won't uptake more then 0.005 ppm. [But if you lower the iron dose to, say, 0.5 ppm per week, then they may uptake just 0.002 ppm per week. So the more iron you supply them, them more (small) part of it they will uptake.] So it depends on whether the iron complex (or iron chelate) is able to last in your tank at least until your plants will (up)take something of it. If the conditions in your tank are bad and your chelate will break down (degrade) very quickly after you add it into your tank, then your plants may begin to show some deficiency signs despite the fact you supply some iron into your tank.
 
Hi, Jose. What's your iron and macronutrients weekly dosage in ppm?

I will have to measure but its like 1/4th of a teaspoon of micros and the same pretty much for everything else. This is every day on a 12 litre nano tank but no fish in it atm.
 
will have to measure but its like 1/4th of a teaspoon of micros and the same pretty much for everything else. This is every day on a 12 litre nano tank but no fish in it atm.
Do you dose the powder directly in the tank or dissolve it in a solution to store and use during the month?
 
So it depends on whether the iron complex (or iron chelate) is able to last in your tank at least until your plants will (up)take something of it. If the conditions in your tank are bad and your chelate will break down (degrade) very quickly after you add it into your tank, then your plants may begin to show some deficiency signs despite the fact you supply some iron into your tank.

The best choice so far seems to be Fe-DTPA as this chelate seems to be the most stable one under our conditions.

Yes, that's my problem. The iron doesn't last in my tap water. And I dose the wrong type of iron for my hard water. I dose 0.6ppm weekly in about 3 doses or so. If I dose once a 0.2ppm my plants start showing iron deficiency within a week. I don't dose phosphates so I don't happen to mix micros/macros. It's just my tap reacting with the iron.

This is a low tech with not much light and very few plants to compete for it. Red clay in the substrate though works perfectly. And also clay pebbles in the filters mitigate the problem somewhat too.
So I either need clay in the substrate or dose the right type of iron as you suggested, otherwise in my hard water the one I use doesn't cut it.
 
I'm thinking to dose all macronutrients weekly dosage at once (after water change). But I'll keep dosing micros in alternated days (because the most part of them are chalated). It's a good idea?
 
Do you dose the powder directly in the tank or dissolve it in a solution to store and use during the month?
I like to dry dose. Its just simpler for me and i dont have to worry about micros deteriorating or measuring etc.
 
I'm thinking to dose all macronutrients weekly dosage at once (after water change). But I'll keep dosing micros in alternated days (because the most part of them are chalated). It's a good idea?

I dont think its a great idea. You might get very good growth at the beginning of the week but not so much at the end, and concentrations will change a lot. If youre doing it for a reason then just try it and look at plants and fish.
 
I dont think its a great idea. You might get very good growth at the beginning of the week but not so much at the end, and concentrations will change a lot. If youre doing it for a reason then just try it and look at plants and fish.

It's more easy to dose all at once because I usually forget to dose some days during the week. I'll dose after after wc the following amount of macros, 60 ppm KNO3, 8 ppm PO4, 10 ppm Mg and 30 ppm Ca.
 
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