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How can I Improve more (500lts planted)

I think sumps are the way ahead, especially in big tanks and if you have good DIY skills. The spray bar across the back system is great but not essential and does require a lot of pump power. All that's really needed for success in any tank is a good circulation of nutrient rich water to all areas of the tank and this can be achieved in many ways.

An easy option now could be just to add a second filter and join that into your existing set up, then you can clean filters at different times which helps with keeping filtration stable and none of your current equipment becomes redundant. The plants are pretty effective filters when growing well but if or when you are dealing with melt and algae issues then more filtration capacity can only help with recovery.
 
Just been reading the thread. I started a 500L in wall tank just over 3 weeks ago. Am using 2 x Eheim Pro filters and pressurised CO2, a combination of 2 x t5s and LEDs on 6 hours a day. With no fish or shrimp I rammed the CO2 up so the indicator showed yellow and the plants have flourished. I'm now cutting back so I can start introducing fish and all so far seems ok.ImageUploadedByTapatalk1450903988.413288.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1450904027.173471.jpg
 
Wow what a lovely setupTim

cant crank the co2 as of now for fish n shrimps
definately working on the flow issue
DIY sump is a good idea with a good pump
right now will use the powerhead for time being till I am ready wid the sump
 
so improved my flow of canister filter a bit now looks good to me now


what I did here is connected the canister filter to the power head with a L connection and when only the canister filter is on u can see the flow the first one and when both are on you can make the difference in flow
explained in the chart below

2yzk907.jpg
 
ya Chris got it flowing for now ................sump in making will start work on it this Monday

sump size as per which would fit my cabinet is 30" L x18" B x16"H
any ideas to share on the sump are welcome please
 
Hi Hemant,

This is my first attempt at a sump but it is working well after several months.



The prime design consideration with a planted tank is to avoid too much off gassing of CO2 which means sealing the sump to some degree. Because of the plants natural filtering capacity there is no need to be over complicated with refugium's or multiple sections etc. just keep it simple.
I'm using KS3 micro media and pond foams as used by Koi keepers, very economical and easily bought on eBay.
 
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nice setup Chris ......it looks like a trickle sump ...will try something like this for my sump so that in future can be used for marine also

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is this ohk or need to do any changes any where pls suggest
 
Looks fine to me.
My biggest challenge has been getting the overflow correctly dimensioned and working well but as you mentioned drilling that should be less of a concern.
I suggest you give careful consideration to how you're going to keep your overflow shrimp safe and easy clean...
 
How is co2 provided in a sump
all said u loose lots of co2 in sump
 
Both are good options.

I suggest that most of the negative chat about sumps losing CO2 is from people who've heard that elsewhere but never tried one. My CO2 usage is similar to when I used a cannister filter with good surface agitation but the trickle section is covered to help contain gases.

Your options for CO2 are similar either way, diffuser or a reactor. In a big tank such as yours an in line reactor on sump/filter outlet is probably favourite. With the sump option you could have the reactor on a dedicated pump so that you can fine tune the flow through it for optimum results.
 
As Chris says both will work.
One you just have to plug in, although you will have to DIY some fittings to get your reactor or atomiser to suit the pipe work.
The other you have to construct & design.
The other option is to buy two smaller filters, that would possibly be the most expensive but a nice option!
Sumps are great in many respects (I use one on my main tank) but they can be both noisy & IMO use more C02 than a canister filter set up.
However if you can get a good overflow design (that is the main gas off stage) & a nice quiet return pump - then great... if you can get a mains top up valve to the sump then the whole system can be made a lot easier to maintain & even do auto water changes etc..
 
HI Chris & Foxfish
You ppl are great advisers thanks once again .......submersible pumps now days come much quite as compared to canister filters had one in my marine will look for more options on return pump today will start working on the sump but before that would appreciate if you ppl could give me a video or pic of what Foxfish is talking about like the mains top up valve(pls elaborate or give pics of the same ) it will be easier to design accordingly

Also Chris can I have a video of how you are using Co2 in the sump could not get any idea with the video you uploaded .....seems you are using a cerges type of reactor

Saw this video of yours but just can u explain the pipe inflow outflow setting how and where its connected to the co2 reactor

 
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There are lots of options with the co2 if you use a sump, the most effective I have found is using a needle wheel pump as a return pump. You just feed the co2 directly into the pump that sits in the end compartment of the sump, the needle wheel will pruduce a very fine mist. I used this system for about 10 years with no problems at all!
Or you can use a standard retun pump with a atomiser placed in front of the pump inlet for the same effect.
A reacor will produce a mist free tank or depending on the design, a fine mist. However you will need a big reactor on your tank, you may get away with a 20" version of my reactor design (link in my signature) but I would go for a 36" acrylic pipe to get better results.
You can buy mini top up valves (ball volve) that use RO water unit 6mm pipe. It is quite simple to run the 6mm pipe from a mains water supply with the fittings available. Once installed the ball valve with auto top up the tank and keep ivaparatsion in check but also allow for a simple auto or semi auto water change.
I can put up a basic diagram later today......
 
This thread explains my reactor design in more detail with a diagram http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/very-high-efficiency-reactor-design.36432/ and should answer your questions. It is Cerges-esque but the key difference is how the added discs and central tube create more turbulence and surfaces for CO2 bubbles to collect.

Foxfish's direct to needle wheel pump suggestion is surely one of the simplest ways to get you started.

However if you really enjoy making stuff then a version of mine will be CO2 efficient and ideal for your big tank. I suggest you power it with a separate pump so that you can adjust the flow through to get an optimum balance between CO2 absorption and bubbles out. The output could then go back directly to infront of the main sump pump inlet for distribution into the tank.
 
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This is the final design for my sump ..............took idea from Chris sump / glass already cut given for polish will get tomorrow
8 mm glass /2 silicon tube in place :twisted: will be ready by tomorrow afternoon will upload pics

now Co2 reactor I think in India I would only get 10" transparent pre filter housing not more than that for sure
20 " is there but not transparent and will be too big to fit in my cabinet .....

now studying Chris reactor design / and thinking of running it with the extra power head I have

Just Tell me also how much LPH pump should I go for now in the return chamber that's the question ?

the pump i liked is this just 40 w and control flow of water


drilling a 1.5 inch hole in my tank to put in the adapter for outlet unit will 1.5 inch 1 hole enough or should I go for two
over flow unit is out of question don't get in INDIA

This is the 3 positions where I can drill the hole .....suggest at position 1 or 2 or 3 which one is better
and how many inches below from the top should I go for ......any tutorial on it is most welcome
zyivyq.jpg
 
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Ah, you are getting excited!

A word of caution re your sump design... you have to allow enough capacity to cope with the drain down into the sump that you'll get if there is a power or pump failure or for maintenance. Correct sizing of the sump requires a lot of thought to account for this. Your diagram does not appear to consider this and will overflow at the 15" level....

I suggest you slow down and do a lot more research or go with the cannister option.
 
20% of 500 lts = 100 my sump is 135 litrs Will make sure 100 liters of water is down
then drill the hole

Calculated that first only
 
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