HELP!!! BGA Issues

[jack-rythm]

Check out the zebra ottos their beautiful. I think the trick is to learn how to control your lighting. Once this is mastered you can control your tank. Flow, lighting and water quality all boil down to the consequences of algae blooms. Stick it out.. It won't hang around once you crack it 🙂

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[ceg4048]

...drop checker has 4dhk bromo blue solution bought from AE. My confession here is that it already looks like a yellowy green not blue, which is why I take it to yellow. however this also means I'm not really getting any accuracy from it. I'll upload a pic of the solution straight from the bottle to give you a better idea. not sure how to remedy this?



Filter is not burbing or rattling, although I'm not seeing small bubbles coming out of the spray bar. I'm I correct in assuming this is because they have dissolved before coming back out?

Yes, the pump impeller chops them up and they take more time to navigate their way through the maze of the filter's media, so they wind up dissolving, although some may get trapped and build up, only to get spat out roughly when the pressure builds.. That's why I mentioned about the rattling and burping.

Anyway, I totally agree with you. There's no point using fish to solve plant problems, as fish can only rarely fix plant health issues. You must fix the underlying, fundamental root cause of a health issue. Have a look at the thread=> Reliability of Drop Checkers | UK Aquatic Plant Society
Perform the pH checks discussed in that thread and report the numbers back so we can have a better idea of how the gas is behaving.

Cheers,

 

[thelats1981]

Hi Clive,

Apologies for the comms black out. Christmas is a horrendously busy time, even for an atheist. I've not had time to sit down with the tank and do the pH test, aiming to do it this weekend and will get the results posted.

I've upped the CO2 slightly with no affect on fish, but don't want to go crazy as this is still feels like shooting in the dark until I do the pH tests to see how things are working.

On a positive, the algae, whilst still there in moderation appears to have hit a wall and is not showing any further growth.

I've noticed a reduction in the velocity of the water from the spray bars, which is to be expected. The jets are dropping slighting before hitting the front glass. Would you recommend the Koralia placed centrally on the back wall facing the front glass? If so, only during CO2 / lights on time?

Still no probs with the filter, it has burped once, however this was not long after a filter clean and could easily be trapped air.

I also noticed that the bubbles from the ceramic diffuser were starting to become larger, I've cleaned this as well. Starting to wonder whether I will need a second one to have in while I deep clean the other. I guess the inlines have the same problem with build up and still need regularly cleaning? Never an easy option!

Anyway, thanks for all your help to date. The info and knowledge you share is priceless, as is the additional confidence I get when you explicate the processes. No matter how much reading and research you do, it can still feel like you are missing something.

Have a great New Year.

 

[ceg4048]

Hi mate, thanks very much and no worries, it's a busy time for all, no doubt.

I've noticed a reduction in the velocity of the water from the spray bars, which is to be expected. The jets are dropping slighting before hitting the front glass. Would you recommend the Koralia placed centrally on the back wall facing the front glass? If so, only during CO2 / lights on time?

The best place to start for that Koralia is to have it's output vector match as best as possible that of the spraybar. Looking at your photo on the previous page, it appears that your spraybar does not extend all the way across the tanks back wall. There seems to be a gap between the right end of the bar and the right side wall. Right in the middle of that gap is exactly where the Koralia should be placed, about at the same height, pointing parallel to the jets from the bar.

In the image that you've shown, in that configuration with the pump on the left wall pointing diagonally, can you see that it forces the water away from where the spraybars are trying to guide the flow? What we hope for in a typical spraybar configuration is is that the bar's output sends flow vertically down the front glass and then straight towards the rear. But the Koralia may be powerful enough to disrupt that "flow shape" and to push it off-course to the right. Can you visualize that? If the Kolralia is placed at a location where it can create a similar "flow shape", then it's output will be in concert with, and assisting the spraybar, instead of distorting and disrupting it.

I also noticed that the bubbles from the ceramic diffuser were starting to become larger, I've cleaned this as well. Starting to wonder whether I will need a second one to have in while I deep clean the other. I guess the inlines have the same problem with build up and still need regularly cleaning? Never an easy option!

Well, it should never take more than 10-20 minutes or so to completely clean the disk. Just dip it in bleach solution and then thoroughly rinse. The stronger the solution, the more quickly it will be cleaned (I use undiluted bleach and it vaporizes algae/organic film buildup in a matter of seconds, then I just rinse under a strong kitchen tap flow - messy, slimy, but quick). And yes, inline devices have the same problem - and are more difficult to clean because the bleach has to be poured in and is more difficult to purge. If you wrap your inline device in dark paper then it will stay clean and effective for much longer.

Reconfigure the pump location and snap another photo of it so we can see.🙂

Cheers,

 

[AverageWhiteBloke]

My confession here is that it already looks like a yellowy green not blue, which is why I take it to yellow

Apologies if someone else picked up on this, I did read through just never seen. If your 4DKH fluid with the bromo already added is green before you put it in the DC and tank then that sounds like a faulty batch unless some thing's changed I haven't heard of! Your 4dkh should be blue when exposed to atmospheric air. Another thing worth mentioning is you seem to be breaking down and cleaning your filter too many times IMO. Nothing against keeping a clean filter but after strip down they take a couple of days to get up to their full working capacity again and loaded with good bacteria. Once a week cleaning is breaking up the filter just when it's getting going.
Patience is another main factor. When I read back your OP you say you were ready for giving up! So many people have been there myself on many occasions 🙂 It often causes you to knee jerk and try this today then that tomorrow and then something else when you read some more info from a post that may be similar to your situation or not at all.
Nothing advised to you thus far will kill that algae off by the end of the week. Everything advised so far will, if kept up regularly sway your tank back in the favour from algae to plants. The high dosing of liquid carbon will without a doubt kill the algae but until the other issues are resolved it will come back. It's a constant battle between the two even when your plants are healthy. They just sit in the tank waiting for a chance to flourish.
I would heed all the advice Clive has said, put the Koralia where it needs to be for best flow, make sure your DC fluid is ok and set the co2 so it is yellow at lights on and pretty much stays that way until lights of. Generally 2 hours before lights on and 2 before lights off. Your dosing has been cleared as ok so keep that up. Once a week change 50% of the water and blitz that algae with EC by spraying affected areas with a syringe when dosing rather than just in the tank. Importantly, do that regularly and try and keep out of the tank for while.

Some faster growing plants would also be a benefit like hygrophilia. I couldn't see a full tank shot but it looked a bit sparsely planted.

 

[thelats1981]

Hi Clive, sorry, i extended the spray bar across the tank the other day. I thought this would be most efficient in terms of CO2 distribution, however it has affected the velocity of the water coming out. The water starts to drop about 2 thirds of the way across the tank, i.e. towards the front glass. Overall there seems to be a more even movement of the plants.

Would there be a benefit in the powerhead on the back wall or would this just start to 'confuse' the existing flow?

I still think the wood hardscape is probably affecting flow too much, I'm on the lookout for some smaller branch like wood as I think the cories and kuhli's appreciate it in the tank. I didn't deliberately go for such large pieces, it always looks smaller in the shop, luckily I haven't done it with fish yet.

 

[thelats1981]

Apologies if someone else picked up on this, I did read through just never seen. If your 4DKH fluid with the bromo already added is green before you put it in the DC and tank then that sounds like a faulty batch unless some thing's changed I haven't heard of! Your 4dkh should be blue when exposed to atmospheric air. Another thing worth mentioning is you seem to be breaking down and cleaning your filter too many times IMO. Nothing against keeping a clean filter but after strip down they take a couple of days to get up to their full working capacity again and loaded with good bacteria. Once a week cleaning is breaking up the filter just when it's getting going.
Patience is another main factor. When I read back your OP you say you were ready for giving up! So many people have been there myself on many occasions 🙂 It often causes you to knee jerk and try this today then that tomorrow and then something else when you read some more info from a post that may be similar to your situation or not at all.
Nothing advised to you thus far will kill that algae off by the end of the week. Everything advised so far will, if kept up regularly sway your tank back in the favour from algae to plants. The high dosing of liquid carbon will without a doubt kill the algae but until the other issues are resolved it will come back. It's a constant battle between the two even when your plants are healthy. They just sit in the tank waiting for a chance to flourish.
I would heed all the advice Clive has said, put the Koralia where it needs to be for best flow, make sure your DC fluid is ok and set the co2 so it is yellow at lights on and pretty much stays that way until lights of. Generally 2 hours before lights on and 2 before lights off. Your dosing has been cleared as ok so keep that up. Once a week change 50% of the water and blitz that algae with EC by spraying affected areas with a syringe when dosing rather than just in the tank. Importantly, do that regularly and try and keep out of the tank for while.

Some faster growing plants would also be a benefit like hygrophilia. I couldn't see a full tank shot but it looked a bit sparsely planted.

Hi AWB, I definitely think its a faulty batch. I've got some bromo and 4dkh solution (seperate) on its way.

In terms of filter maintenance, I see where you are coming from in terms of bacteria colonies. TBH, I've read a lot recently about keeping the filter clean at all times, obviously as a direct result of the plants struggling there is a high level of organic waste / matter in the tank and subsequently in the filter.I dont mess with the bio media, just empty it, get the gunk out of the canister itself and clean the mechanical filters in tank water.

I'm still hanging in there, I was definitely having a bad day, and I thought this would be relaxing for me! I lose it sometimes when you see the expenditure spiralling out of control. I don't have a huge budget, or spare cash, and when I started out I never imagined I'd be going 4 times over the budget! £180 of gorgeous crypts from the TGM melting into nothing (due to Solar like lights and no CO2) was the starting point.

I'm spot dosing at the minute which is clearing up, and have some more Neutro CO2 from AE on the way.

fingers crossed!

anyway, off to have an unreasonably early beer so that I can get through the tedium of another average New Years Eve.

Thanks to you all, have a good one.

 

[ceg4048]

Hi Clive, sorry, i extended the spray bar across the tank the other day. I thought this would be most efficient in terms of CO2 distribution, however it has affected the velocity of the water coming out. The water starts to drop about 2 thirds of the way across the tank, i.e. towards the front glass. Overall there seems to be a more even movement of the plants.

OK, yeah, that happens because of the additional volume and outlet area which means a more muscular filter is needed to fill the volume and energize the flow through the extra holes. I normally use two filter, each attached to one of the bars, but that's more complicated and isn't always an option.

Would there be a benefit in the powerhead on the back wall or would this just start to 'confuse' the existing flow?

Yes there is always a benefit, as lo as you don't disrupt the flow patterns. There are a couple of options. You can mount the Koralia in the middle, just under that grey joint of the two bars, or you can mount it just under the middle of the last third to help boost that flow. Just keep it parallel to the jets from the bar. See which works better by crushing some flake food and dropping the flakes to see how the move. Keep in mind that the flow pattern of the Koralia is in the shape of a cone. Stick your hand in the water at various distances from the nozzleso that you can feel the shape of it's output.

I still think the wood hardscape is probably affecting flow too much, I'm on the lookout for some smaller branch like wood as I think the cories and kuhli's appreciate it in the tank. I didn't deliberately go for such large pieces, it always looks smaller in the shop, luckily I haven't done it with fish yet.

Yes, but that's just life in the big city. Other people have different variations of the same problem, like having huge jungle style plant mass which also blocks flow. We just need to find enough flow to overcome the obstacles. Open style savannah type scapes have it a little easier. No big deal.😉

Cheers,

 

[AverageWhiteBloke]

Ok mate I understand. regarding the filter, not sure how much damage to the bacteria colony is damaged just with exposing it to the air but washing in tank water is the main thing. I don't think leaving your filter for 3 or 4 week would do any harm. In a balanced tank with plenty of healthy plants combined with a water change there maybe a small ammonia spike which goes unnoticed, in fact I suspect the plants enjoy it and the ph being low is less toxic to fish. In your case with few unhealthy plants and fluctuating co2 it could be extra fuel for your algae.
Sometimes the costs can spiral but there's always some cheaper options. If you want some cheap fast growers maybe ask in the for sale section, being fast growers people often bin them so I'm sure someone would post
You some if you covered the postage costs. you can always change these to other plants when the algae battles won. You can also diy liquid carbon but that's another story.

 

[thelats1981]

Apologies for the lack of activity, I've not had much chance to work on the tank lately. firstly thanks to everyone for helping me out. My BBA is now gone, I think largely down to stability in CO2 and addition of Glut. I'm still having issues with melting, which I realise is down to Co2 distribution. I've got a couple of questions regarding improving my flow which I'll post on a seperate thread. thanks again, hopefully I'll be able to put some time into sorting things out.

 

[jacaranda]

Hi there ,

Is the picture of the potassium nitrate the correct stuff?

Mine is the same

Cheers !

 

[russw]

I'd also like to know if the picture is of true potassium nitrate please

 

[thelats1981]

Jacaranda / Russw, I believe this is the correct stuff. I upped the dosing and the BGA has pretty much gone, only a very small amount between substrate and glass

 

[russw]

Hi thlats1981
Thanks for that, it looks like the stuff I got from AFP. When you say you upped the dosing was that all the EI mix or did you just increase the amount of Pot. Nit in your EI recipe?

Cheers

Russ

 

[thelats1981]

Hi Russ,

kept to the APF mix, just added more. seemed to do the trick. I believe its the nitrate that BGA doesn't like, so I guess you could just add more KNO3, but i couldnt be bothered complicating things! now just got to master CO2, oh and install my new FX5 this weekend! happy days!

rob