Has anyone got experience with NTLabs Test kits?

[Aqua Hero]

Long story short I tested the nitrites from my tap water and it shows a light pink which means that's there is about 0.25-0.5ppm of nitrites. But years ago when I tested my tapwater with API liquid it showed a bright blue meaning zero.

Even when I tested with the API test strips ot shows zero.

So I'm a bit confused and not sure if I can trust it for my tank water which it show a slightly deeper shade if pink, indicating it to be around 0.5-1ppm if nitrites.

Normally I wouldn't be worried but before adding shrimp and fish I need to make sure the level is zero.

Note: Ammonia readings are fine as it shows 0.2ppm which I'm sure is just ammonium it's picking up and Nitrates I don't bother with anymore.

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[Aqua Hero]

For reference, I conducted 4 water tests.

The Red one (Far left) is 100% Distilled water
The Second one is 50% Distilled water/50% Tap water
The third one is 100% Tap water
And the fourth one is my tankwater

There are some reports that NTLabs used Nitrate levels to read the Nitrite levels which I can confirm because I accidentally tested my nitrite levels after dosing Macros today and the levels were much higher than the previous tests.

The Distilled is showing 0 which makes sense but my Distilled/Tap mix and tap have identical readings but I'm sure my tap water doesn't have nitrites in it. And the test kits is giving a false positive based off the nitrates coming from the tap.

My tankwater tube is showing a slightly darker shade of pink which makes me think there is a bit of nitrites still present. Buy I don't think it is as high as the measuring sheet states

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[dw1305]

Hi all,
I'll be honest I'm never going any decisions based on what a NO3- and/or NO2- test tells me. You might be interested in this paper that has come my way via my "day job" <"https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acs.jchemed.2c00381">*

*Gawanker, S. & Masten S. (2023 ) "Development of an Inexpensive, Rapid Method to Measure Nitrates in Freshwater to Enhance Student Learning"
Journal of Chemical Education 100(6)

There are some reports that NTLabs used Nitrate levels to read the Nitrite levels which I can confirm because I accidentally tested my nitrite levels after dosing Macros today and the levels were much higher than the previous tests.

Really strange that, it should be the other way around, basically because ~all nitrate (NO3-) compounds are soluble. This means that you have to <"reduce the NO3- ion to nitrite (NO2-)">, before you can produce an insoluble nitrite compound that <"you can measure colorimetrically">.

...... Because nitrate compounds are soluble, so you need to reduce them to nitrite (NO2-) before you can get a coloured solute ("Nitrate is reduced to nitrite by a reducing agent. In the presence of an acidic buffer, the nitrite is converted to nitrous acid which diazotizes an aromatic amine, this coupled with N-(1-naphthyl)-ethylenediamine to form a red-violet azo dye") that you can measure. The alternative to the azo dye method is to use salicylic acid ("Cadmium metal reduces nitrates in the sample to nitrite. The nitrite ion reacts in an acidic medium with sulfanilic acid to form an intermediate diazonium salt. The salt couples with gentisic (salicic) acid to form an amber colored solution").........

So normally the test is a two stage process where you test for NO2- first and then reduce any NO3- to NO2- and test again. The NO3- level is the difference between the first test (just NO2-) and the last test (NO2- + NO3-).

cheers Darrel

 

[Aqua Hero]

Hi all,
I'll be honest I'm never going any decisions based on what a NO3- and/or NO2- test tells me. You might be interested in this paper that has come my way via my "day job" /pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acs.jchemed.2c00381[/URL]">*

*Gawanker, S. & Masten S. (2023 ) "Development of an Inexpensive, Rapid Method to Measure Nitrates in Freshwater to Enhance Student Learning"
Journal of Chemical Education 100(6)

Really strange that, it should be the other way around, basically because ~all nitrate (NO3-) compounds are soluble. This means that you have to /www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/few-problems-with-my-little-slice-of-nature.61970/page-2#post-611314']reduce the NO3- ion to nitrite (NO2-)[/URL]">, before you can produce an insoluble nitrite compound that /www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/measurement-of-nitrate-with-a-spectrophotometer.56727/#post-552526']you can measure colorimetrically[/URL]">.

So normally the test is a two stage process where you test for NO2- first and then reduce any NO3- to NO2- and test again. The NO3- level is the difference between the first test (just NO2-) and the last test (NO2- + NO3-).

cheers Darrel

So what then should I do to know when it's safe to add fish and shrimp?

I'm thinking to wait till the end of the month and do one last test to see if things are okay and then buy fish because by the tank would have cycled for more than 2 months and things should be ready

Last thing I want to do is introduce fish and sensitive shrimp based off false readings

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[dw1305]

Hi all,

So what then should I do to know when it's safe to add fish and shrimp?

You just have a reasonable mass of plants in active growth, at that point the tank is fish safe whatever the test kit tells you.

Normally the problems lie in the other direction <"where people write"> something like "I cycled my tank and my test kit results were perfect, but just after I added the fish they all became distressed and then died".

Plants take up <"all forms of fixed nitrogen"> and if the tank is well enough established for the plants to have produced a reasonable biomass and be in active growth? The tank is <"seasoned"> and you can add fish.

It really is as simple as that, the only <"problem"> is that nobody makes any money of of <"plants and time">.

Optional rant
If you can sell the poor punter a series of test kits, a "better" series of test kits, ammonia (NH3) to cycle your tank, a bacterial starter, some more fish (after the first ones died), a silicate removal kit (because "high silicates in the water killed them", or some other total b*llocks), some <"premium biological media">, a <"bigger canister filter">, some zeolite etc then you can "make some real money".

Basically they are present when it is mined - <"The formation of polyhalite: A 250-million-year-old story">, all Seachem do is put it in containers and slap an aspirationally priced label on it. They are all sulphate salts, but that is because that was what is present in the mineral deposit.

I think they have form here <"What filter media is best?"> , <"5.5.3.2. Seachem Prime and Safe">& <"Hobby laterite balls? Any reviews?">.

The genius of Seachem is to find a product and then <"write some advertising"> to sell it.

cheers Darrel

 

[Aqua Hero]

I know my plant mass is good but damn I can't help but feel a bit paranoid.

I think I'll just wait till the end of the month and then add them in. Just to be extra safe

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[hypnogogia]

The Second one is 50% Distilled water/50% Tap water
The third one is 100% Tap water

Given your results are both the same shade of pink, but one sample has half the nitrite of the other shows that you can’t trust the test results.

 

[Aqua Hero]

Given your results are both the same shade of pink, but one sample has half the nitrite of the other shows that you can’t trust the test results.

Figured as much

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[Tim Harrison]

I know my plant mass is good but damn I can't help but feel a bit paranoid.

I think I'll just wait till the end of the month and then add them in. Just to be extra safeView attachment 219316

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Just err on the side of caution and introduce critters slowly and a few at a time if you're still not convinced. Normally my tanks cycle enough in a week or two to do just that.

 

[Aqua Hero]

Just err on the side of caution and introduce critters slowly and a few at a time if you're still not convinced. Normally my tanks cycle enough in a week or two to do just that.

I'm only planning to add 1x Clithorn snail, 6x Neocaradina shrimp and 1 Betta. I'm sure all these won't create a huge ammonia Spike that will upset the system?

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[Aqua Hero]

Normally my tanks cycle enough in a week or two to do just that.

I was dealing with a huge amount of ammonia during the beginning of the cycle due to a slight oversight on my part hence why it's taken this long.

Made sure to not make that same mistake for my second scape now


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[simon_the_plant_nerd]

I'm sure all these won't create a huge ammonia Spike that will upset the system?

Seems unlikely. Do the inverts first then the Betta if you’re concerned?

 

[Aqua Hero]

Seems unlikely. Do the inverts first then the Betta if you’re concerned?

Yeah ill do that. Gives them a head start to hide and adjust

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[dw1305]

Hi all,

I know my plant mass is good

I'm sure that is fine and I wouldn't have any reservations about adding fish.

but damn I can't help but feel a bit paranoid.

I understand that as well.

Just err on the side of caution and introduce critters slowly and a few at a time if you're still not convinced.

Caution is never a bad thing. If you can wait a few more weeks? I would.

Given your results are both the same shade of pink, but one sample has half the nitrite of the other shows that you can’t trust the test results.

Yes, that is sort of the issue. That is why "plant mass and time" works, there isn't any ambiguity.

cheers Darrel

 

[Aqua Hero]

Hi all,

I'm sure that is fine and I wouldn't have any reservations about adding fish.

I understand that as well.

Caution is never a bad thing. If you can wait a few more weeks? I would.

Yes, that is sort of the issue. That is why "plant mass and time" works, there isn't any ambiguity.

cheers Darrel

Alright I decided to buy a pair of amanos so if all is well till Sunday I'll buy the rest of the fauna on Monday

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