keymaker said:
plantbrain said:
Excellent hardscape. (...) Nice tank so far.
Thank you Tom, your words mean a lot to me!
😳
I give credit where it is due, folks spend a lot of time doing something and it comes out nice,
if it looks good, it IS GOOD.
I'm blunt with praise as I am with criticism :idea:
Moss tanks tend to be tough for many, they seem to think such systems are very easy, they most certainly can be............which is why I would suggest you explore lower light systems, you will be happily surprised I think.
I know high light disease is tough to sake off and all
😀
I do, honestly...........but seeing how low you can go is well worth the effort.
A very brightly lit tank does look better, more eye catching..........and the plants do grow in faster.
But as you state, both you and Victor spend a fair amount of work doing water changes and work on these tanks.
For clients and other folks, many are not that willing to do such upkeep.
So being able to control the rates of growth, but get similar results, just longer times for grow in and trimming frequencies is a very useful and good management tool. This way we can scape and chose plants that are manageable for most people, not just the few that wish to do a lot of work. I make my water changes easy and trim and chose layouts I like, my days of playing with high light are long over. I have the ability to increase light 2-3x on most of the aquariums, but rarely even do so. I might for a picture etc.
Many are surprised at the growth rates I still get and nice colors.
plantbrain said:
Since this is mostly moss and a fair amount of the tank is not planted, why not use low light?
This would make trimming and algae issues much less of an issue and less work down the road.
Well, we respectfully choose to go the other way.
😉 All our other planted tanks (there should be about 11 more at the moment in the Gallery and only 2 low-light) go high-tech, high-light and algae issues are minimal - almost non-existent. No exceptions.
🙂 Maintenance is regularly made on all of them, we never tire.
In your case, this is fine and an informed decision, but many newbies often see high light tanks and do not tend them, but get the high light, then fight the algae and other issues. Then they come asking about algae and how and why. I try to explain to newer folks the care required, some listen, some go looking for people that will tell them you do not need to do any water changes or work etc.
Then they often fail.
Hard to say which way to go with some of these things, but I take each person case by case. This way I can manage low, med or high light. It's rare I suggest high light, but for you guys, this is NOT an issue. Maybe after 20-30 years, you will tire??
Haha.........
We like to go for the fast growth - high lighting levels, achieving the Vibrating Nature effect. With support of the EI.
I think a decently feed Shrimp population and maybe 1/5th to 1/10 th EI would be fine for such a tank, but adding more will do no harm either. Moss is very undemanding.
Nerites might be useful for keeping the rock clean also, but noit as effective as large water changes, but the water changes and CO2 are not as good for shrimp, you get higher brood without so many water changes and without CO2.
Such tanks can still look very nice, this will challenge you to try something out of your comfort level.
Reef tanks, Planted Marine, Rift cichlids, Natives etc.........all these are well worth pursuing.
And add some plants and nice layout, tank, scape etc.
You have the desire and passion, it need not be limited to high light CO2 tanks.
George Farmer embraces this attitude and philosophy. I do obviously.
plantbrain said:
We have a lot of this stone at our local quarry, I've used it a lot on larger tanks, but never was happy, for smaller tanks (...)
The problem with this stone is that it comes in smaller pieces. Hard to build a balanced, yet mountain-like hardscape with it in a bigger tank. You need to pile them, but then the connections should be covered, planted, etc. It's a building-hiding game at the same time. This is exactly the type of challenge I like...
🙂
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This is a common complaint many have in Europe and the USA, poor rock sizing and quality, all the nice stuff is picked off elsewhere. Often, in the West(NA and SA) and Europe/Africa, we place little worth on distinctive rock, in Asia, it is embraced. I can find wood that is awesome, but stone is hard to come by unless I bring a rock saw and go cut some pieces I see out in the mountains here. That is a lot of work.
I have some wood that emulates rock however. So I try to work with what I have that is unique, and not copy using the commonly scaped materials. I enjoy collecting wood and rock, so it allows me far more scaping choices that are unique to my own eye.
This is yet another area, you might consider doing and looking for in your area.
Much like finding different plants, or biotopes etc.........
plantbrain said:
I think it works well with a few species of plants, or a mono culture.
Funny you mention the mono culture thing. This morning I was looking at the new pictures Viktor took and wondered about the same thing. Might consider reducing the number of plants here, but not decided yet...
A reductionist approach is a good study for ANYONE. Amano has done it many times, then built upon that.
You really get to know and understand each plant this way and learn it's true potential. Adding complexity from there is an interesting challenge. This(adding more complexity) is often where looking at nature helps I think.
I compare this monoculture to painting a blank canvas all black or all white..........then adding your subject/s.
plantbrain said:
My worry is breaking the and scratching the glass over time.
A very real problem with these "rocks-on-top-of-each-other-near-the-glass" compositions indeed. I did slightly scratch about 3 opti-tanks by now.
So I'm trying to handle these really carefully and not let our friend Ati next to any of our piles. He's the breaker in the team
😀
Yes, I hate this. It can break your heart! I think you might do well to use epoxy and super glue gel to keep the rocks in position, much like Reef folks use for their live rock displays, Reef aquarium sites have many good tricks for rock set ups that will not scratch the glass, but this takes much more work, but often, the pay off is well worth it, planted aquarist are often not as willing to do this. Reef aquarist are less willing to do water changes and trim, prune, scrub algae etc. Do not allow Ati to play goalie in soccer!!!
hehe
Tom