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First effort - a rod for my back!

Hi Folks,
I’m not getting much growth from these short sword I planted 3 weeks ago and a lot of bare Tropica soil between. I have heard you can make a carpet of Java moss? Could the moss go directly on the substrate or would it need to be anchored to an object? Any other suggestios for filling the gaps?
 

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the oak is fantastic. you'd pay a lot of money buying hardscape that looks like that! Are you planning on keeping the natural tint to the water? I think it helps accentuate the tetras
 
Veridius said:
the oak is fantastic. you'd pay a lot of money buying hardscape that looks like that! Are you planning on keeping the natural tint to the water? I think it helps accentuate the tetras
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Thanks, I’ll be truthful, I crave a crystal clear tank as I’ve never had one so although the tannins are interesting just now In the longer term I’ll be happy to see the back of them. Or maybe not,.. 😀
 
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You can just leave the moss on the substrate if flow allows or tie some to rocks which makes it easy to control. I would however give the short sword (which looks like Lilaeopsis brasiliensis - Tropica Aquarium Plants ) some time to settle. It tends to be slow to settle down and then begins to creep faster when it's put down roots. You could move it closer together creating a tighter carpet and use moss in the darker areas. This would allow the lilaeopsis time to grow into the lighter area and you can move some of the moss easily enough, if it spreads into the space.
 
mort said:
You can just leave the moss on the substrate if flow allows or tie some to rocks which makes it easy to control. I would however give the short sword (which looks like Lilaeopsis brasiliensis - Tropica Aquarium Plants ) some time to settle. It tends to be slow to settle down and then begins to creep faster when it's put down roots. You could move it closer together creating a tighter carpet and use moss in the darker areas. This would allow the lilaeopsis time to grow into the lighter area and you can move some of the moss easily enough, if it spreads into the space.
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Hi, thanks for the suggestions, Tge micro sword was sold as Lileopsis mauritius, honestly I would not know the difference! I’m a bit loathe to disturb it in case it sets it back and also as it was right fiddle to plant...I like the idea of filling the gaps with moss..I’m maybe being impatient, when I look back they were pretty runty little seedlings so they have grown and I just need to be patient...cheers 👍
 
This is what we see slumping on the sofa watching Star Trek Discovery (or Married at First Sight Australia depending on who's choosing 😀). I like it a lot from this angle it all seems to fit; the plants, the sand, rocks, oak and heather shoots and leaves (except it needs moss on the top of the sawn oak...) and the tannins make for a groovy depth effect

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Working away from home for weeks at a time has disadvantages, being away from home 2 weeks out of 5 means the tank gets neglected, Mrs Simmo will do a couple of small water changes, feed the fish and dose TNC once a week but she works hard and has little time so I knew I was coming back to an algal when she sent me this photo of algae on the frogbit roots and by the time I got home it had spread about the tank that was choked and almost stagnant with very little flow. Next time I'm away think I'll leave off the fine filter wool from the filter.

Before.JPG

So I cut off the frogbit roots, and did a 50% water change, cleaned the filter sponges and media in tank water and had a general tidy up. More work to do, some of the java ferns are covered in BBA-like tufts and there is hair algae on many surfaces including the Amazon swords. I'm changing TNC dosing from 20ml/week to 5ml per day after reading something about it in George Farmers book and coincidentally I've ordered and fitted the 1000lph powerhead in place of the 600.

After.JPG
The area of short sword has not thrived since I planted it nd it is now coated in algae so after asking for advice I'm removing it and will add some Crypts to this area, I think with another stone with some moss glued on. Speaking of which while I was away I'd ordered some more plants, so additional vallis went in more Java moss, a rectangle of Christmas moss and some red Buce - below, Fresh Java fern on order...

View attachment Mesh moss.JPG

I wanted to enhance the focal point of the two vertical pieces of wood so ordered some Bucephalandra red with the idea this would make impact. I tried super glue gel for the first time, gluing the plants to pebbles before adding them to the tank; this has worked well although I can see the white of the glue here and there but a bit of time and growth should obscure it.
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Decided to relocate where the frogbit is gathered by gluing two heather sticks to the top of the oak log; this works really well and I only stuck my fingers together twice 🙂 The frogbit is now where I want it.

View attachment Frobit dam 2.JPG

View attachment Frogbit dam.JPG
So hoping that more tidying up and water changes, adding some more plants and encouraging the ones that are already there will give the plants the edge over the algae. Wish me luck!
 

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Hope the photos are visible....only the first two display on the post - maybe an upload size limit?
 
Bit of repetition but repeating bits of the last post to show the photos
I wanted to enhance the focal point of the two vertical pieces of wood so ordered some Bucephalandra red with the idea this would make impact. I tried super glue gel for the first time, gluing the plants to pebbles before adding them to the tank; this has worked well although I can see the white of the glue here and there but a bit of time and growth should obscure it. They are very small, the unpredictable nature of Ebay purchases but with stocks from the usual suppliers very low there's no alternative (and some of the plants have been excellent). Fine hair algae on the wood and moss, a combo of snails and a toothbrush plus more water changes needed
View attachment Red on wood.JPG
 

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More plants, time and money. I seem to be shoving more and more greenery in to replace the dead or dying stuff. I put in plant, they go stratospheric for a week or two then start decline. Is 6 hours enough light with the standard Juwel set-up?
Short sword came out and Crypts wendtii went in, while I was there I used some Ebay 'Java' moss that looks like sphagnum to me, to make a rock fall feature with pebbles.
Took out some Java fern that was heavily algaed. Frogbit looks unwell, pale and bruised and browning leaves, maybe the root chopping was too severe.
Got some nice Bucephala, stupidly broke it in to pieces, wish I'd kept it whole but still, a nice splash of vibrant green.
Another 50% water change yesterday, that's 2 in 3 days.
Pleased with how the tank looks in general, hoping for a little bit of stability and plant growth.

General view
Moss, Bucehp Wedntii.JPG

Short sword removed, wendtii planted

Sword removal.JPG
 
Hi

im giving some of this (frogbite) away after a weekend trim, if you‘re interested DM me. Can’t guarantee it’ll be snail free though.
 
not called Bob said:
@dw1305 is a advocate among with others of the 12 hour day. I'm only running shorter as the death of flash has seemingly made it hard to reprogram my lights

Is it the standard rio lights your running?
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Everything seemed to say 6 hours max when starting up, I'm 2 months in so maybe time to lengthen the light period? Having just had major algae not sure that's a great plan though!? They're the Juwel Multilux LED, it is a LIDO 200 so 65cm deep, maybe the plants need more as the water is a bit deeper than average? gets a little daylight but not much. Who knows, so many variables....:crazy:
 
2 months is still a young tank really. My brother has the same tank and I had to tint the water with alder cones to reduce the light a little because he doesn't have co2 and the light caused the usual problems with algae in the beginning. His tank has been up and running for a couple of years now and it only gets 6 hours a day. I also only run a 6 hour photoperiod on my tanks because I want to balance plant growth vs my dislike of having to prune plants to often. If you have a simple low energy tank without co2 then I don't think you need a long photoperiod but I guess like everything else that's open to debate.
 
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