plantbrain
Member
- Joined
- 2 Aug 2007
- Messages
- 1,938
I seal the dry section of the wet/dry filters and reduce the spill over into the weir boxes to about 3-5cm.
I use duct tape, but some suggested gaffer's tape to seal up any air leaks in the wet/dry box section.
The goal is to prevent exchange of gas.
CO2 can still degas there, but it just gets redissolved since it cannot vent.
Good if you have a fish only tank, but bad if you want to add more CO2.
The wet/drys are still very good though.
I use them on all my tanks, but they need just a little modification is all.
Also, CO2 and O2 are independent, so adding more CO2, does not displace O2, likewise, high O2 does not displace CO2. Respiration of fish is a two way street still(CO2 and O2), so when we add CO2, we should also consider having really good O2 as well, this allows us to add more cO2 with less risk to fish health/reduce stress etc.
I use high current and high CO2 and lower light, this is the best scenario for fish and plant health.
Also makes management 10X easier.
BGA tends to be due to poor filter mainteance, flow etc, or low NO3.
Blackout (3 days search here for this) or EM antibiotics etc. with subsequent dosing and upping of KNO3.
I neglect the KNO3, I get it coming in slowly.
Algae and plants can be used in this manner to judge what needs done and "fix its".
Basic routine maintenance, some gardening is all that's left.
Much simpler, easier than all the other techy method,s test kits and what not.
Most folks have a goal of a nice planted tank with moderate growth, reduced labor and a little gardening.
So the method should reflect that with a logical step wise approach that uses methods most are familiar with and have few assumptions/skills required.
I also practice what I preach:
I use duct tape, but some suggested gaffer's tape to seal up any air leaks in the wet/dry box section.
The goal is to prevent exchange of gas.
CO2 can still degas there, but it just gets redissolved since it cannot vent.
Good if you have a fish only tank, but bad if you want to add more CO2.
The wet/drys are still very good though.
I use them on all my tanks, but they need just a little modification is all.
Also, CO2 and O2 are independent, so adding more CO2, does not displace O2, likewise, high O2 does not displace CO2. Respiration of fish is a two way street still(CO2 and O2), so when we add CO2, we should also consider having really good O2 as well, this allows us to add more cO2 with less risk to fish health/reduce stress etc.
I use high current and high CO2 and lower light, this is the best scenario for fish and plant health.
Also makes management 10X easier.
BGA tends to be due to poor filter mainteance, flow etc, or low NO3.
Blackout (3 days search here for this) or EM antibiotics etc. with subsequent dosing and upping of KNO3.
I neglect the KNO3, I get it coming in slowly.
Algae and plants can be used in this manner to judge what needs done and "fix its".
Basic routine maintenance, some gardening is all that's left.
Much simpler, easier than all the other techy method,s test kits and what not.
Most folks have a goal of a nice planted tank with moderate growth, reduced labor and a little gardening.
So the method should reflect that with a logical step wise approach that uses methods most are familiar with and have few assumptions/skills required.
I also practice what I preach: