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"Dutch something or the other" 120 Gal

A few folks have it, maybe not looking like that per se, but with time and lighting, you should be able to pull it off.
I removed it and added to my 180 gallon where it does better and is not so much work to tend to. As people buy it for 45$ shipped for 6 stems here in the USA, I do not mind having it around. And it grows really fast.
 
I've shipped to EU, but it's about 50/50 with that plant, best to try in the Fall.
I know there are plenty of people that have it over there, it's a fast growing weed so if anyone wanted to sell it all day long, they easily could.
 
plantbrain said:
I've shipped to EU, but it's about 50/50 with that plant, best to try in the Fall.
I know there are plenty of people that have it over there, it's a fast growing weed so if anyone wanted to sell it all day long, they easily could.
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I noticed the plant about a year ago and went searching for it with no luck whatsoever over here ..... I'd love to get hold of some
 
I am going to go back to some older plant species I had prior as they make a better contrast statement.
Likely R. wallichii and Ludwigia perunesis. Will tidy up the Tonia and make a "L" shaped row instead of a triangle wedge.
Will add 2-3 more Erios to match the downoi on the right side.
Need to hack the Monte Carlo back in a huge way.
This will be done this coming week. I will do a few smaller wood changes in the front array.



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I stopped doing so much work on the tank, you can see some plant species subs and I've just been topping the background plants, not uprooting.
I seek a balance with the work though, so some stems will return even though they offer little $ sales and require more work perhaps.
 
aliclarke86 said:
Does the MC yeald much of a profit?

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Yes, but I typically spread and use the plant in various client's or friends, other tanks and get a lot of it going so I can learn more about it, then I have a lot to sell.
A little delayed gratification helps.

The bricks are solid plant biomass, so a 8x8cm brick is a lot of plants!
 
Hi
Yes I could see that you put less work on the tank. But I wanted to be sure haha.
But it is still an amazing tank.
Hope during fall I will find this Monte Carlo !! Really want to have it.
Do you already try grow it in emerge form ?
Because as all the plant I have order I would like to have a back up and stock in our tropical pond here. For future scape.

Regards
 
Really love the look of this tank, minus the green wedge at the front which I feel is drawing too much attention.

What the reason for the tank not looking crystal clear? bacterial bloom?
 
Team Steve said:
Really love the look of this tank, minus the green wedge at the front which I feel is drawing too much attention.

What the reason for the tank not looking crystal clear? bacterial bloom?
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If you read through the post, you will see I just redid and moved a lot of plants around, when you do this with sediment like ADA aqua soil, it'll cloud the tank.
There's also mad pearling and a little CO2 mist, you are looking at front to back distance of about 80cm also, much deeper than most aquariums, then I took the pic with high light, which reflects and washes out the colors and gives a whitish cloudy look.
Note, this is not a finished photoshot. This is just how it is right then when I happen to take a pic, warts and all.

the green MC wedge has been hacked, but I cut sod and sell that, I took from the rear of the mound this time and have allowed it to grow out to highlight the new plant as a nice viable foreground new species for the hobby. I'll pull the sucker back little by little over time.
I have it growing in a client's tank so I'll have plenty and can allow this patch to become smaller. Come back and view various point sin time and you'll see different stages and management methods, that's the point.
If I merely topped and let the tank just go without uprooting and only taking pics once every 2-3 months, well, then............but I tend to take pics weekly. This helps folks get to those perfect stages much better.

So no, it's nothing to do with bacteria and a lot to do with mulmy dust from the ADA aqua soil dust from uprooting and moving plants.
Such horticulture methods are more Dutch in their style(uproot and replant the nice tops) than Nature style which uses almost exclusively topping.
 
I hacked the Monte carlo back, but I think I'll just whack the suck to the bone and replant the tops.
 
Made some changes, like about 1 hour ago.
Water is still pretty cloudy after the rework.
Added some different wood slats to border the plant groups.
Added the red pantanal weed back, at least for now till I figure what else to do with it or find a new plant to take it's place.
The wood, I'm much happier with. the MC really got going and was over takign the front, so I sold most of it and replanted the new sprigs and it a month or so, I'll have a nice lawn again.
Repositioned Erios.
You can see the difference in the Downoi from a couple of weeks ago, lots of new growth.
Removed the Ech. agustafolia variety vesuvius.
Tank is pretty close to where I'd like it to be once a few of the groups grow back in, UG, MC, some of the back ground plants. I might add some more Mini pellia on wood here and there.
I can alwlays swap the mini reineckii for the R macrandra also.
The new pink ovalis Ludwigia is a nicer plant than the old Ludwigia red. It grows slower and denser than the red type. Not really pink however.
I may add the pennywort in the Right front corner or a mini Riccia or something.

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Oh yea, I forgot to mention this:

Scaping, this is reverse from nature style actually.

I chose the plants.............. then added and changed the hard scape to suit the plant species I wanted.
Most tanks and nature style does the hardscape 1st, then chooses the plant species afterwards to accent the hardscape.
They might chose a foreground type plant, but the species is often not always known.

If you chose the plant species 1st, then I think this would be closer to the dutch style and approach., which is to highlight the plant species that interest you.
To a lesser degree, the hardscape. It's a different emphasis and approach.

However, the wood and positioning is far far from a simplistic thing. You can go very simple in either case, or go to the really sophisticated.
Still takes a lot of work and thought to make it look good in both areas. One is not superior to the other, they just have different areas/goals/emphasis.
It's also a long term garden for me, many of the REAL Japanese landscape gardens are old, very very old..............they are not these short lived tanks many scapers often do for 6-18 month time frames.
If you cannot maintain the garden indefinitely.................without breaking the tank down, then you are not really focused on Japanese gardening. There is a very strong emphasis on long term care. Imagine if these tanks were bonsai trees?
These gardens also require a lot of manual care, no whining about water changes and cleaning the tank/filters on a very regular basis. You put in a lot, but....you get a lot out, regardless of the style.
 
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