Dutch 110ltr

[Libba]

If you’re going for a true Dutch tank. You will need to reduce the number of species to 1sp every 10cm of tank length.

Here are some good articles on Dutch style.

Dutch Style Aquarium. | Bart Laurens

Some Rules for Dutch Style Aquascaping - A Quick Guide for Beginners

www.aquatic-gardeners.org

Tips And Tricks For Dutch Style Aquascaping

Tips and Tricks for Dutch Style Aquascaping

barrreport.com

Hope you don’t mind a few criticisms.
Plant groups poorly defined, you’d want a good couple cm between groups.

Ludwigia and althernanthera are mirroring each other.

Too many species.

The light green stems have very little contrast and are very similar textures.

Use of red cabomba on the side, makes the tank seem smaller,

Anyway, if you weren’t planning on making a true Dutch style aquarium you can happily ignore all the above, and enjoy your aquarium. It looks great and should keep on getting better as the plants grow in.

Hey mate, I think it's fair to offer suggestions but to me the tone of this post comes across as a bit too critical. Just remember this is someone else's journal and the critique is unsolicited. I'm not saying you shouldn't offer suggestions for other people's tanks, just try to be a bit more tactful. It also comes across as a bit elitist. I've noticed that most amateur hobbyists tend to do a more "dutch-inspired" style rather than strictly adhering to competition rules. I just felt like this post goes against the general culture of the forum. That's just my take though! Nothing against you, I enjoy your journal and your posts.

 

[plantnoobdude]

Hey mate, I think it's fair to offer suggestions but to me the tone of this post comes across as a bit too critical. Just remember this is someone else's journal and the critique is unsolicited. I'm not saying you shouldn't offer suggestions for other people's tanks, just try to be a bit more tactful. It also comes across as a bit elitist. I've noticed that most amateur hobbyists tend to do a more "dutch-inspired" style rather than strictly adhering to competition rules. I just felt like this post goes against the general culture of the forum. That's just my take though! Nothing against you, I enjoy your journal and your posts.

Honestly, I didn’t mean for it to come off as harsh, and I apologise if it did come off in that way @milesjames

Not everyday you see Dutch tanks on ukaps, so I guess I got a bit excited😅

as a bit elitist. I've noticed that most amateur hobbyists tend to do a more "dutch-inspired" style rather than strictly adhering to

I’d like to clarify, I have nothing against tanks that don’t follow strict criteria outlined for a Dutch tank, my tank surely isn’t even close so it would be idiotic and a bit hypocritical of me to have something against them😂

 

[GreggZ]

I'm increasing light slowly as the tank is relatively new, so it is likely this is contributing. I dose 0.20 mg/l every 3 days. So likely the iron is low as this should be 0.10 - 0.15 mg/l every 2 days givin the number of red plants.

If you are referring to iron dosing then 0.6 weekly is more than you need for any plant that I am aware of. I dose my very high light packed full of stems tank with micros at 0.40 Fe by proxy and no issues. As you said it's probably a result of lower light.

I look forward to seeing where this goes.

 

[milesjames]

Hi @GreggZ,

Thanks for the dosage details, I'll pair back a bit on the FE see if this makes a difference.

Excuse me for asking but what do you mean by proxy??

 

[GreggZ]

Hi @GreggZ,

Thanks for the dosage details, I'll pair back a bit on the FE see if this makes a difference.

Excuse me for asking but what do you mean by proxy??

I create a custom solution of micros. I then dose that solution based on 0.40 iron ppm. All of the other micros relative ratios and ppm are based on the iron concentration. I hope that makes sense. Probably making it more confusing than it needs to be.

 

[Hanuman]

Cacomba furcate not being that red is usually because of insufficient light. This plant is among the most light hungry there is in the hobby and failure to comply with its light requirements is usually reflected in poor coloration and condition.

 

[milesjames]

I create a custom solution of micros. I then dose that solution based on 0.40 iron ppm. All of the other micros relative ratios and ppm are based on the iron concentration. I hope that makes sense. Probably making it more confusing than it needs to be.

I see yes I don't work with DIY ferts/mineral salts. Was just confused with the proxy element thought it might of been a method of applying the ferts.

Funny where your mind goes when you read certain sentences lol.

 

[milesjames]

Hi @Hanuman,

Yes I heard that it is a light thirty beast of a plant. I've connected an additional light to combat this, I'm running both a fluvel plant and sky with an overlap based on the cabomba and lower plants. I'm upping the levels daily, but may bring one of my higher lumen lights in to replace the sky once at full capacity depending on how the cabomba reacts.

The plant came in really leggy due to low light at the lfs so done first of many trims recently to combat this. Likely I won't see full colour or structure till im at full capacity.

 

[_Maq_]

Cacomba furcate not being that red is usually because of insufficient light.

I've connected an additional light to combat this

I still believe the opposite - phototoxicity, lack of magnesium and iron.
Now, I'm curious if more light helps or makes even more damage. Please, don't forget to let us know, @milesjames .

 

[Hanuman]

I still believe the opposite - phototoxicity, lack of magnesium and iron.
Now, I'm curious if more light helps or makes even more damage. Please, don't forget to let us know, @milesjames .

He is just ramping up his light, not even at full power.
Fe is at 0.6ppm week. That’s far more than enough.
Magnesium I don’t know the dosing but I doubt this is the issue specially if using fresh substrate.
C. Furcata is notoriously light hungry. This is well known. What you see on those pictures is the tipical coloration one gets when the plant is underlite. He also said the plants where leggy when he got them. This plant also needs time to adapt.
Side note, I removed mine from my tank not because of this but because it is also an aerial root specialist. If it has enough space it will bent down trying to dig its roots. They need to be planted tightly.

 

[milesjames]

Hi @_Maq_

I dose 0.42ppm magnesium twice weekly so unless I'm under/over estimating this as well. I really do agree with @Hanuman on this. I will keep you posted on the lighting as I will be ramping up fast soon.

Tank will be 1 month old next week so intensity will be much higher, so hopefully given cabomba' s growth rate we should have a result pritty quick!!

 

[milesjames]

He is just ramping up his light, not even at full power.
Fe is at 0.6ppm week. That’s far more than enough.
Magnesium I don’t know the dosing but I doubt this is the issue specially if using fresh substrate.
C. Furcata is notoriously light hungry. This is well known. What you see on those pictures is the tipical coloration one gets when the plant is underlite. He also said the plants where leggy when he got them. This plant also needs time to adapt.
Side note, I removed mine from my tank not because of this but because it is also an aerial root specialist. If it has enough space it will bent down trying to dig its roots. They need to be planted tightly.

Interesting I wasn't aware of its aerial rooting!!! I thought cabomba hated tight planting, at least that's what I've been working off.

Currently I've gone with a standard wide plant grouping of every 1.5cm with trimming looking to hold form with mushroom shaping.

Any thoughts on this being an effective choice??

 

[Hanuman]

Hi @_Maq_

I dose 0.42ppm magnesium twice weekly so unless I'm under/over estimating this as well. I really do agree with @Hanuman on this. I will keep you posted on the lighting as I will be ramping up fast soon.

Tank will be 1 month old next week so intensity will be much higher, so hopefully given cabomba' s growth rate we should have a result pritty quick!!

Mg is on the low side here, unless you are using TAP which probably contains enough Mg. But even if you aren’t, the soil probably contains more Mg than necesary at this stage of the tank’s life. I remineralize my RO with 10ppm of Mg and I know that’s more than enough. I was dosing 6ppm before and was good. My opinion here is that Mg is not the cause. But that’s just MO.

 

[Hanuman]

Interesting I wasn't aware of its aerial rooting!!! I thought cabomba hated tight planting, at least that's what I've been working off.

Currently I've gone with a standard wide plant grouping of every 1.5cm with trimming looking to hold form with mushroom shaping.

Any thoughts on this being an effective choice??

Yes canomba will readily send aerial roots. You don’t need to plant them tightly as long as other plants are around it will grow fine and upwards. I planted mine with lots of space and the started crawling. I banished them.

 

[milesjames]

Oh substrate wise it has far too much I planted it with a seachem tab directly under it. As well as fresh soil etc.



Though as I say I'm not on par with ferts as some...

 

[milesjames]

Yes canomba will readily send aerial roots. You don’t need to plant them tightly as long as other plants are around it will grow fine and upwards. I planted mine with lots of space and the started crawling. I banished them.

Sounds good I keep on top of that!!

 

[milesjames]

Just found this video hopefully it uploads. It shows colouration of plant much better!!

 

[plantnoobdude]

I still believe the opposite - phototoxicity, lack of magnesium and iron.
Now, I'm curious if more light helps or makes even more damage. Please, don't forget to let us know, @milesjames .

I believe the same, looking closely at photos it appears it is not only the cabomba, but the limnophila, rotala appear to be having issues with iron deficiency.
0.6ppm Iron is very excessive, I agree. But that may actually not be available to the plants.

I used to have Fe deficiency while dosing over 1ppm Fe from EDTA. I swapped to dtpa and I stopped having issues, even at Low doses such as 0.05-0.1ppm DTPA.

@milesjames what chelate are you using for iron?

 

[milesjames]

Well first of all guys I have to say it's great to have you all chipping in on the journal and how I can get the best results from my plants!!

What ever is the solution to the begging question, that is what's causing the colour challenges for my cabomba etc. I feel humbled at your dedication to helping me out. 😊

So currently I am fertilising at a pritty basic level using over the counter products including flourish and flourish iron. This is partly due to fearing the unknown so not looking into the art of DIY ferts and due to access.

Now I believe I dose heavily due to the fact that its a new setup with flourish tabs and fresh stratum as the substrate. So for now I feel can get away with heavily dosing the tank with these products and not worrying on the full mechanics, but maybe this is an oppertunity for learning...

What are your suggestions on the starting points for making appropriate ferts (products and quantities) for my tank?

 

[plantnoobdude]

flourish and flourish iron. This is partly due to fearing the unknown so not looking into the art of DIY ferts and due to access.

I believe this is the heart of your problem. Flourish iron I believe is Fe gluconate. Gluconate is not available for long, I would suggest adding 0.1ppm Fe dtpa in addition to your current dosing while cutting back iron. This dose sHould be more than sufficient in terms of iron.
You may have better results with DTPA plus flourish+flourish iron or even try using flourish trace. Your plants, in terms of growth form are doing very well, so you are doing well onThat part.

Far as colouration goes, you may want to invest in light some heavier red blue spectrum as well. You may even consider adding a led strip of grow lights in combination with your current lights.

0.6ppm is plenty, which tells me you have availability issues, whether that be precipitation or something else, in my tank I’ve never needed to go over 0.1ppm Fe. To make sure you have good uptake also make sure you maintain decent concentrations of magnesium and manganese since these can contribute the to chlorosis.