Deciding on whether to start with APT Zero Or APT 3

[Aqua Hero]

So on my current tank, I'm having great success with EI dosing. My plants are healthy and have minimal algae (just a bit of brown algae here and there).

I'm setting up a new tank and I want to try and grow more red plants. This includes plants like Rotala H'ra, Rotala Orange, Hygrophilia pinnatifida, red root floaters and some bucephalandra as well.

I know for this it is suggested I use high lights but more importantly, have low nitrates. I tested my taps and checked my water reports and both show that my tap water has roughly 20ppm of nitrates. At this level, I think I don't need to dose extra nitrates for what I'm trying to achieve.

However, a lot of the plants I'm getting will be tissue culture or in their emersed form and additionally, I will be having a lot of bucephalandra. And in all these scenarios I'm expecting a huge meltback (especially with the buce).

I was wondering if during this time of melting and transition if I should dose my APT Zero which doesn't contain nitrates or phosphates OR if I should instead dose APT 3 which dose contain some nitrates and phosphates.

Which of the two is best to use while the plants are adapting to their new environment?

Note: Not I will have the tank fully cycled before planting and my light will be raised higher and will add floating plants to help reduce the light levels as to not induce too much algae during the melt.



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[dw1305]

Hi all,

I was wondering if during this time of melting and transition if I should dose my APT Zero which doesn't contain nitrates or phosphates OR if I should instead dose APT 3 which dose contain some nitrates and phosphates.

I'd just dose a lean dose of a complete fertiliser. If you are happy with <"APT 3">? Use that.

Just 1ML per 20 liters adds the following nutrients:

1.5PPM Nitrogen
0.7 PPM Phosphorous
4 PPM Potassium
0.3 PPM Iron
0.4 PPM Magnesium

The only thing that looks "wrong" it <"is the cost"> and that is back to the <"World's most expensive water"> contest. This is <"Solufeed 2 : 1 : 4"> at £14 for a kilo of dry salts.

Note: Not I will have the tank fully cycled before planting and my light will be raised higher and will add floating plants

In terms of how much fertiliser to add, have a look at <"What is the “Duckweed Index” all about?"> and <"subsequent posts">.

cheers Darrel

 

[Aqua Hero]

Hi all,

I'd just dose a lean dose of a complete fertiliser. If you are happy with /www.aquariumgardens.co.uk/2hr-aquarist-apt-3-complete-1000ml---refill-5092-p.asp']APT 3[/URL]">? Use that.

The only thing that looks "wrong" it /www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/phostrogen-diy.74439/#post-752026']is the cost[/URL]"> and that is back to the /www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/lean-dosing-pros-and-cons.67334/page-60#post-699193']World's most expensive water[/URL]"> contest. This is Solufeed 2 : 1 : 4 at £14 for a kilo of dried salt.
View attachment 219187

In terms of how much fertiliser to add, have a look at /www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/what-is-the-%E2%80%9Cduckweed-index%E2%80%9D-all-about.73647/#post-742700']What is the “Duckweed Index” all about?[/URL]"> and /www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/what-is-the-%E2%80%9Cduckweed-index%E2%80%9D-all-about.73647/page-2#post-754114']subsequent posts[/URL]">.

cheers Darrel

I haven't actually used them yet cause the tank is still cycling and hasn't been planted.

I know it's pricey but for a 25L tank I can get around 300 days with the bottle I have, which I think is pretty decent.

If it wasn't for the fact that I want to have red plants I would have just used my dry salts

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[dw1305]

Hi all,

I know it's pricey but for a 25L tank I can get around 300 days with the bottle I have, which I think is pretty decent.

I understand that, it is entirely up to the individual aquarist.

If you are a plant it really doesn't make any difference how much an ion has cost, the potassium ions (K+) from APT3 are exactly the same as the K+ ions from Solufeed 2 : 1 : 4. For small tanks it makes much less difference in cost.

Personally <"I'm unwilling to pay a huge premium"> because someone has a taken a very small amount of an existing horticultural fertiliser dry salt mix put it in a bottle and added DI water.

cheers Darrel

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

If it wasn't for the fact that I want to have red plants I would have just used my dry salts

It will be interesting to see what happens, because I'm a rainwater user I don't have any nitrate NO3- in <"my base water">. The same is actually true of our tap water, it is relatively low in NO3- .

I've just got some Phyllanthus fluitans (thank-you @simon_the_plant_nerd and @megwattscreative ) and I'm going to

1. Try and <"keep it alive">, and
2. See if I can manipulate its <"degree of red coloration">, via <"fixed nitrogen (N) limitation">.

cheers Darrel

 

[Aqua Hero]

Hi all,

It will be interesting to see what happens, because I'm a rainwater user I don't have any nitrate NO3- in /www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/corydoras-in-hard-water.55880/page-2#post-544573']my base water[/URL]">. The same is actually true of our tap water, it is relatively low in NO3- .

I've just got some Phyllanthus fluitans (thank-you @simon_the_plant_nerd and @megwattscreative ) and I'm going to

1. Try and /www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/deficiency-showing-on-floating-plant.69524/#post-693974']keep it alive[/URL]">, and
2. See if I can manipulate its /www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/little-20l-aio.73755/page-4#post-752068']degree of red coloration[/URL]">, via /www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/freshwater-aquarium-plants-guide/how-to-make-red-root-floaters-phyllanthus-fluitansredder']fixed nitrogen (N) limitation[/URL]">.

cheers Darrel

I too want to try and get red red root floaters but I feel as though my tap water won't let me as the nitrates are around 15-20ppm but there is no harm in trying.

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