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Crystal Mountain

Thanks for your thorough response. So do you dose micros on a daily basis based on Fe 0.07ppm or 0.166 every 2 days (3 days a week) for days when you don't dose macros?

I think I read somewhere its dangerous to dose micros and macros on the same day?

You also mentioned Cu and Bo levels can accumulate in the sediment filter media, what should I look when cleaning the media? Makes sense Bo and Cu are used in anti-algae products, hence why I probably don't have any algae except for some GDA on the glass!

Thanks again

Hi again Seoulstar,

1- I dose MICRO and MACRO one hour after lights on, because I have a peristaltic pump, and it auto doses everyday, at the same time, if you prefer you can divide the 0,5ppm into 3 and dose according to EI guide lines one day micro, one day macro and 1 rest day, but in my opinion it will be absolutely the same thing, there will be the same amounts of ferts in the tank so It's a matter of routine, do what works best for you ;)

2- There's no danger in dosing both in the same day, only thing is that phosphate and Fe compounds tend to bind to each other, but if you think about it, what about all-in-one fertilizers ?? Tropica Specialized like ?? More likely to happen with week chelates, so that's the reason I dose my ferts after lights on, when pH has drop from Co2 injection, maintaining fe-gloconate soluble in fe2+ form, I also dose the Urea dose at this time not letting the bio-filtration process it, so plants can have really a benefit from this dosing, I also use ascorbic acid and potassium sorbate to prevent mold formation and lower the pH of my solutions :)

3- Don't really worry about this, it will have practically non impact, in my opinion, at least if we dose on a leaner side ...
 
One more week and it's in need of another trim, to wild for my taste now :confused:, tomorrow I will try to take a picture in the morning with the stems closed to see the effect

The H. Pinnatifida is taking it's rightful place :)

30914479382_3d484b3c69_k.jpg_MG_2835 by Nuno Matos, on Flickr
 
Olá Nuno,

I've been taking notes from this journal! :lol:

I have one question. You adjusted your Fe dosage to counter rusty pipes, your dosing was 0.5ppm weekly, how much are you dosing since the adjustment?
 
Love the wild look too, let it grow please :p

I will a little more than I have to cut them down :)

Thanks again for the response, I guess routine is more important than technicality.

Please have a look at the thread I started today, trying to diagnose my plants, would be interested to receive your insight on what may be lacking/overdosed.

https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/ludwigia-super-red-new-growth-yellow-and-other-problems.47812/

Will have a look for sure ;)

Olá Nuno,

I've been taking notes from this journal! :lol:

I have one question. You adjusted your Fe dosage to counter rusty pipes, your dosing was 0.5ppm weekly, how much are you dosing since the adjustment?

Hahahahah,

Sorry man that was a joke, the solution for that is cleaning :D

I do my ferts according what I've posted some pages behind, than I do more or less ml dosage, the recipe is always the same ;)
 
Now it really needs trimming :D

10mm
30333434214_53c49662a3_k.jpg
_MG_2845 by Nuno Matos, on Flickr

10mm Back Light
30347516403_9116b2c4a2_k.jpg
_MG_2849 by Nuno Matos, on Flickr
 
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Nice colours :)What about light regime?How many wats/litre do you use ?And if you have "light peak" how many w/l you use at that time?
You can write in percents of power of course :)
 
Nice colours :)What about light regime?How many wats/litre do you use ?And if you have "light peak" how many w/l you use at that time?
You can write in percents of power of course :)

Thank you greedy,

The lights are on for 8h straight, full power, each fixture has 65w of 8000k smd leds the tank has 271L wich means it has 0,47W/L and the fixtures are quoted for 9700Lumen each, so in my setup I have 72Lumen/L I also have PAR measurements in tank :)

Chihiros Serie A 120cm . 65W . 8000ºK - OPEN AIR
cm PAR
10 286
20 142
30 91,2
40 64,3
50 47,8

2xChihiros Serie A 120cm . 65W . 8000ºK - IN TANK
now with water . 120x50x50 tank . 6,5cm fixture high + 2cm water level = 8,5 cm LED to water

cm PAR PAR (with apogee converter factors**)
10 265 213
20 192 140
30 152 106
40 132 110
48 122 82

All measures took in darkness, open space to avoid reflections, open air (no water).
Always took reading in the axis of light (the best value).
Sensor used was Apogee SQ-120* without the LED correction factor (direct measures).

* Apogee Underwater factor correction 1.08
** Using 'Underwater-PAR-Calculator' made by apogee.
*** Correction factor for LED (when compared with T5) CW -4,2% ; NW -6,1%; WW -9,9% (not applied to this test)

You can follow the topic ''The Power of Light'' on a couple of measurements me and Tiago (tmiravent) took on several LED light fixtures ;)
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads...ar-values-for-led-fixtures.43178/#post-469559

It seems you trim it every 10 days, but then I checked your journal, and it seems last major trimming was at November 1st. Is it correct?

Hi there Alexander,

I trim it everyday, removal of older leaves, leaves out of scale and sometimes algae affected leaves ;)

The last major trim was carried out on October 30, that time I've trimmed everything to the bone :D
 
Beautiful tank and nice photography. Nuno I see you have been using the Chirios Doctor but yet you have green algea... Do you mind sharing your experience on this piece of equipment? :)
Cheers
 
Beautiful tank and nice photography. Nuno I see you have been using the Chirios Doctor but yet you have green algea... Do you mind sharing your experience on this piece of equipment? :)
Cheers

Hi there SteveHung,

I think that Twinstar/Chihiros Doctor are a great addition to any kind of aquarium, I remember when I was a kid, my uncle had an electrolysis device mounted on the kitchen wall to purify the company water making it safer for human consumption, i think the same principle applies to aquarium water, this will for shore kill pathogens and free algae spores on the aquarium water column it's not a miracle device but it plays it's roll in the aquarium maintenance, so you can discard a UV light filter, strangulating your filter output by using one of those, you will have pathogen free environment for your fish and critters, and for sure the dissolved O2 will be higher, and it also activates positive ions (Na+, CA+2, Fe+2, Mg+2, K+, Zn+2), making them easily available for aquatic plants proof of that it depending on the mesh the device uses you can see deposits on this same meshes, we see this very often in DIY devices with stainless steel meshes...

As for my GSA, for sure with 120par at substrate level this is very hard to prevent, it's all about maintenance, and scrubbing the hardscape it's a task that has to be done from time to time :confused:

As I said before this is not a miracle device that eliminates all of your algae but it helps getting them on check ... Has almost everything in life we have to maintain the discipline to reach our goals, the same applies to our aquariums, and I think the secret for the success in our hobby is kipping a good disciplined maintenance, and let nature take it's course, timed water changes, good fertilization regime, optimized CO2 intake, and good pruning it's half way there
smile.png


I think is about time to make a light test for final shoot!
;)

Not quite yet Tiago,

But we can start testing for the final shootout ;)

That's so nice, Nuno! :clap:

Thank you Alex :)

Hi Nuno , do you have any idea what levels of NO3 , PO4 and Fe (in ppm) do you have in this tank ?
I'm not interested on how much are you dosing , i'm interested in the values that you have inside the tank.

Thanks

I've just done some water testing, and this is for the most part of the times the results I got in the end of the week, tomorrow is water change day ;)

NO3 - 10ppm
PO4 - 0,6ppm
Fe - 0.2ppm

Here is the actual state of the layout :)

32023118182_397b803224_k.jpg_MG_3039 by Nuno Matos, on Flickr
 

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