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Converting alkalinity to CO2

Andy Pierce

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Joined
27 Nov 2020
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849
Location
Cambridge, UK
Filed under "DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME KIDS", for about six months now I've been having a play at using hydrochloric acid (HCl) to both permanently decrease water alkalinity and to temporarily increase soluble CO2 levels in the low-tech Shrimphaus setup (detailed comments here). In principle, this is pretty straightforward... water in Cambridgeshire (and London) is very hard with saturated levels of bicarbonate. You've got more CO2 in the water than you might ever need for plants but it's all locked away in the form of bicarbonate. The high alkalinity keeps the pH high and potentially isn't enjoyed by plants (and maybe animals) giving a "liquid rock" type of setup. Adding acid addresses both issues in a hard water, low tech setup: lack of soluble CO2 and high alkalinity.

The chemistry is interesting. The first thing that happens is the excess protons from the acid distribute across protonatable species: bicarbonate and carbonate. This reaction happens instantaneously as the HCl distributes through the water column. The chemical reaction that follows converting carbonic acid and bicarbonate into CO2 is not instantaneous, but is essentially complete within 1 second, giving a temporary CO2 boost. After the chemical reaction is completed, the boosted CO2 will gradually decrease over a course of hours due to outgassing to atmosphere and to consumption by plants. This gradual loss of carbonic acid also increases the pH. At the end of the whole process, alkalinity is permanently reduced, CO2 was temporarily increased for several hours, and the overall pH winds up slightly lower than where you started. Simulated reaction kinetics timecourses (which actually reflect real world experience pretty well as measured by pH) are shown below with details of what happens during the first second and then the overall picture. These simulations are for a tank with starting alkalinity of 290 ppm CaCO3, a starting pH of 8.5, and HCl added to 0.4 mM final concentration. CO2 equilibration to atmosphere is modelled here with a half-life of 1 hour.
290 ppm CaCO3 to 0.4M HCl first sec.png
290 ppm CaCO3 to 0.4M HCl.png
I have been adding HCl from a 1M stock solution to a final concentration of 0.4 mM, twice a day, at the start of each split-lighting daily photoperiod. Each time this happens, the KH is permanently reduced by about 20 ppm CaCO3 (a little more than 1 dKH). The temporarily increased CO2 is definitely being taken up by plants, because the rate of consumption (measured by pH) is higher if the HCl is added with the lights on than with the lights off. Does it actually do any meaningful good? Very difficult to say. If done carefully, there are no obviously negative impacts on shrimp or snails (there are no fish in this aquarium).

I am not advocating this method - there are potentially catastrophic consequences if done incorrectly, e.g. if you actually drop the alkalinity so low that you run out of bicarbonate. The alternative of course would be high-tech CO2 injection (I do this on my other aquarium - note that CO2 injection can also potentially be catastrophic if done incorrectly) and using remineralised RODI water. If you just wanted the reduced alkalinity, you could use HCl to treat water you're going to use for a water change to get the alkalinity where you wanted it to be before putting it in the aquarium - this would be a less risky approach and does sort out the KH, but would miss out on the CO2 piece.
 
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I also considered this method for a while, but then I dismissed it due to the danger of hydrochloric acid (compared to occasional hydrochloric acid usage, I see daily dosing once or twice as a significant risk), and complications with the drop in water hardness. Also, wearing gloves when dosing the tank is not comfortable in the long run either. I suppose using a bottle-top dispenser might make daily dosing possible without direct contact with precise dosing (using a tube at the dispenser's end that extends into the aquarium), although the price of such equipment is quite steep. Or, with that price range, maybe a dosing pump would be an even better solution.
However, if one dose results in approximately a 1 dKH decrease, there will be quite a significant water hardness drop between two water changes if one changes water weekly. With two dosing per day, that's 14 dKH in a week, and a 50% change would give you only about + 7 dKH with your water parameters. Plus, the pH drops will become larger as the hardness decreases. Maybe one could replace the potassium fertilization with daily KHCO3, that way, the CO2 source and potassium could be dosed together.
Still, very risky unless one understands the theory well and has the skills/experience to handle hazardous materials.
 
I dismissed it due to the danger of hydrochloric acid (compared to occasional hydrochloric acid usage, I see daily dosing once or twice as a significant risk), and complications with the drop in water hardness. Also, wearing gloves when dosing the tank is not comfortable in the long run either.
I'm using 1M HCl whereas the concentrated stuff (37% HCl) is 12M. At 1M HCl is more a "strong irritant" (GHS skin corrosion/irritation Category 1B - responses observable following exposure lasting from 3 minutes to 1 hour) than a vitriolic corrosive. You definitely don't want to get it in your eyes, but you won't suffer permanent harm from brief skin exposure. I don't wear gloves when handling it.

However, if one dose results in approximately a 1 dKH decrease, there will be quite a significant water hardness drop between two water changes if one changes water weekly.
This is true. The KH is usually about 30 ppm right before a water change and 230 ppm afterwards. I change out as much water as possible, so more than 50%. There is a large but gradual decrease in KH during the week and a big jump up in KH following a water change.

Plus, the pH drops will become larger as the hardness decreases.
This is also true, but maybe not to the degree that you might expect. On the lowest end if you start with KH of 30 ppm and reduce that to 10 ppm the temporary pH drop would be from a starting point of pH 7.55 down to around 6.15, so around 1.4 pH units, which is about what you might do with injected CO2 in a high tech tank. The overall equilibrated pH drop after the CO2 rebalances with atmospheric CO2 would be less than 0.5 pH units.
 
There is a large but gradual decrease in KH during the week and a big jump up in KH following a water change.
So, this is a way to increase CO2 content at the cost of permanently unstable pH & alkalinity. What is the long-term response of tank's living inhabitants?
 
I wonder...
What if I added daily the same molar amount of CaCO3 and a strong mineral acid?
 
I wonder...
What if I added daily the same molar amount of CaCO3 and a strong mineral acid?
I guess that would work for the alkaline stability.

So, this is a way to increase CO2 content at the cost of permanently unstable pH & alkalinity. What is the long-term response of tank's living inhabitants?

I am dosing CO2 in the morning and getting nice CO2 and pH swings, just as expected here. I am more worried about the CO2 swings than about the pH itself, though; the fish blood/interstitial pH will be directly affected by CO2. Compensation for this is slow and takes a few hours, even in some fish with good adaptation capabilities. I am curious too if there is any data on the long-term effects of CO2 dosing.
 
I wonder...
What if I added daily the same molar amount of CaCO3 and a strong mineral acid?
I'm sure this would work. I would do the mixing outside of the tank, then add the premixed solution to the tank. You would be gradually stepping up the Ca++ hardness of the tank with this method.

So, this is a way to increase CO2 content at the cost of permanently unstable pH & alkalinity. What is the long-term response of tank's living inhabitants?
Also difficult to know. Everything looks reasonably happy as far as I can tell. I acknowledge the permanently unstable pH and alkalinity but I suspect the benefit (if any) of having these parameters stable may be overstated in some contexts. I also hope (but don't know) that a long-term lower average KH will be better for plants than the stably high KH which would otherwise be the situation with tapwater here.
 
Hi all,
What if I added daily the same molar amount of CaCO3 and a strong mineral acid?
There are CO2 reactors that work in this way, but usually using citric acid (C6H8O7) and sodium (bi)carbonate (NaHCO3) <"DIY CO2 Kit Instructions | CO2 Supermarket.">.

Personally I'm not interested in raising CO2 levels, but if I wanted the short term increase that @Andy Pierce gets with his one mol. HCl addition? I would go down @Oldguy 's <"bottled water route"> as recommended by @Mick.Dk <"What to do when running out of CO2?">.

cheers Darrel
 
I suspect the benefit (if any) of having these parameters stable may be overstated in some contexts.
Agreed. I assume that changes of pH are not very harmful per se, but the processes which are behind these changes can be deadly.
a long-term lower average KH will be better for plants than the stably high KH
Definitely. And the day when alkalinity is lowest is the moment when to dose iron with best efficiency.
 
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