saintly said:
ahhh, i wondered what you meant when you replied to my pm the other day.... so im free now? cool
Agent Smith's response would be something like; "We're not here because we're free, we're here because we're NOT free..."
Looked a bit deeper at the exif data on the 450. It looks like tko is using fully automatic metering and that might explain some of the problems. I also checker the manual and it says that this is an IS lens (Image Stabilization). This means that the lens should compensate for camera shake, but you have to turn it on. You may want to check to see if the IS switch on the lens is set to the ON position. The following are illustrations of why you need to learn your software, and I mean learn it well because a camera does not think for you, and a camera does not see the world as you do. It's just a tape recorder.
Lesson number 1 is that in most shots, not everything in the frame is useful or even contributes to the composition. In the original shot there was some kind of orange mushroom in the lower left corner and someones bucket on the lower right. Also the top part of the image serves no function except perhaps to show height perspective. I suspect though that this was not your objective in the shot. Probably you wanted to show the deep mauve of the tree's leaves. The camera does a lot of filtration but not the same as our brain so the original colors get muted, whereas we remember the scene with more dramatic colors. Look at the comparison when all the extraneous things are removed from the scene, with the image sharpened, and the color restored:
Before:
After: Again, one could argue about how much was cropped out. This is just an example.
Before: In the original shot the color of the rose was oversaturated to the point where you could no longer see the detail in the petals. When colors become over-saturated this is called "clipping". Again there is a problem with blurring. The exif data shows 1/60th of a second at f5.6. You should, when possible try to use f8 or f11 on this lens because that is where it's performance is optimized. Use the Av mode as this allows you to set the aperture. If the camera calculates a shutter speed below 1/60 then just crank the ISO up until the shutter speed gets faster, like 1/125th.
After: A bit of sharpening and lowering of the highlights enabled recovery of some detail in the pink. Can you see how the dew drops are sharper and you can actually see through them? These are subtle adjustments that contribute to a better image.
Before: Instead of worrying about blurring the background, worry about getting the subject right first. Omar's right eye is in focus but his left eye is slightly unfocused. This due to the shallow depth of field at f5.6. The window light is really distracting. Using a flash so close often creates odd shadows, reveals surface imperfections and washes out skin tone.
After: We eliminate the video game controller and the window by close cropping. The we reduce the highlights to get a better, richer skin tone and rosier lips. I suspect Omar looks more like this with a deeper bronze tone in the skin. Sharpening the image gives him clearer, brighter eyes, which unfortunately makes it more evident that the left eye is defocused. Again, if you had used a smaller aperture like f8 or f11 you would have gotten both eyes sharper. When all those distractions are gone the image conveys a feeling that we are looking at a confident, happy kid who is responding to the photographer. This was the whole point of taking the picture in the first place.
Hope this gives you some ideas about metering, framing and cropping.
Cheers,