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Biding Time (22 gal, no CO2)

I took some cell phone photos of my tanks in their present state. I've been rehabbing them for 2 or 3 weeks, but it's very much a work in progress. I am working on getting more clean, fresh growth and slowly bringing the TDS back down to where it should be.

Nano tank, box of crypt and buce:
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20 gallon long:
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I only clean the front glass and never the sides or back, can you tell?

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This pink 'Blood Red' was grown with a very weak light more effortlessly than in my other tank.

22 gallon long Biding Time
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I miss the white sand! It's under there somewhere.
 
Looking good!

I like that first tank so stuffed full of crypts.
I agree, but it's hard to see the livestock - there are shrimp and a couple chili rasbora in there.

Still, if there's anything I've learned over the last few years it's that crypts are my favorite. You've gotta wait for them to grow in, at least without supplementing CO2. As Darrel said, good things come to those who wait. Three of the four species in that tank were grown from tissue culture.
 
So I was measuring my pH today trying to see if there was significant differences in the amount of CO2 the tank was accumulating during the dark period when I uncovered something very unexpected- something in my nano and 20 long tanks is increasing my kH! I have been caught totally off guard. The kH in my 22 gallon matches my tap water at between 1 and 2 degrees, but the other two are 5 to 6 dkH and the pH is higher accordingly.

I suspect that the gravel/sand cap must have a small amount of a stone that is leeching it and I was just doing water changes so often before that it couldn't accumulate. Now, the substrate bag says it shouldn't alter my water chemistry, but there are a lot of colors of natural rocks in there, so maybe something snuck in. Does that sound plausible? If anyone else has any ideas thoughts on what could be going on I'm all ears.

This is such a pain because I want my water parameters to be the same between tanks so I can move livestock and plants around with abandon and I'm going to have to adjust the chemistry slowly. Booooo.
 
there are a lot of colors of natural rocks in there, so maybe something snuck in. Does that sound plausible?
This summer, I've established a tank with a natural gravel I'd brought from a rivulet. At a short test, it seemed inert, but in the longer term, it does indeed leach some substances increasing pH, most likely bicarbonates. I had to adjust the water for that tank to push pH a bit lower because it hosts plants which could not stand basic water environment.
 
This summer, I've established a tank with a natural gravel I'd brought from a rivulet. At a short test, it seemed inert, but in the longer term, it does indeed leach some substances increasing pH, most likely bicarbonates. I had to adjust the water for that tank to push pH a bit lower because it hosts plants which could not stand basic water environment.
Speaking of misguided opinions I formerly held, I have been rereading some old notes and apparently I added a little lime to the substrate! At the time I was concerned about the water being too soft and acidic and I already had the lime at hand, so adding it seemed like the obvious thing to do. But then I completely forgot about it in the years since and my thinking has totally changed.

I'm glad there's an explanation, even if in the end the call was coming from inside the house. Doh!
 
But isn't it nice when tanks live over our changes of mind?
By the way, my Crypts generally remain much less robust than yours. All my tanks are kept in lean conditions, soft water, more or less acidic. I suspect some Crypts actually like calcite. It's rather strange because they are monocots and their nutritional demand for calcium is therefore negligible.
 
But isn't it nice when tanks live over our changes of mind?
By the way, my Crypts generally remain much less robust than yours. All my tanks are kept in lean conditions, soft water, more or less acidic. I suspect some Crypts actually like calcite. It's rather strange because they are monocots and their nutritional demand for calcium is therefore negligible.
I wouldn't say that demand for calcium in monocots is negligible, just less than dicots on average. And any sweeping generalizations like that are going to have exceptions.

Crypts, like many other aroids, have raphides, specialized calcium oxalate crystals that IIRC discourage herbivory. Anyway, I'd assume they would require calcium above what is needed for typical cell processes. Idk if that is enough to explain the difference in growth habits though. I keep my gh up around 6 in all my tanks for my shrimp, so calcium isn't limited in my softer water tank either.

Crypt affinity for carbonate I know nothing about though! I'll look into it.

Also it may be they are beefier in less lean conditions, or maybe you just need to wait on them another year or two!
 
Not much to report on this week, except I added a little EDDHA iron to my limed tanks and really underestimated the pink tinge! I was probably asking too much of my scale to measure out such a small amount anyway, so in the future I think I’m just going to eyeball it with the goal of adding some iron, but not enough to tint the water.

I should talk about the future of this aquarium though. The simple fact is that all three of my existing tanks are slated for destruction. Remember at the very beginning of this journal I talked about the 4’ tank build I was planning to do? That’s still where I’m headed, but after the last year I don’t feel comfortable adding it on top of everything else, so I’ve got to let stuff go in order have the bandwidth to take it on. I need all the plant material for the big tank anyway.

This bigger aquarium has gone through so many iterations in my head, but my current thinking is to focus on plants that are low maintenance do well for me rather than devoting significant space to stuff that struggles or needs me to fuss with it frequently. I still want to explore color and texture within this framework, and I feel like I’ve made good headway on that and have a lot of plant material to work with. I suspect that in the long term this is going to become a majority crypt tank, so I want to get a few more species/cultivars going so I have a lot of diversity in a year or two.

One major stumbling point on the project is I’m not totally decided about the substrate. I'm not as happy with aquasoil as I would have thought. Though it is easier to plant in, it’s not performed better than capped potting soil (which, for the record, I think is underrated!) and it looks terrible. I can’t get over how bad it looks. I really like the look of light sand, but I still don't have it in me to give up an active substrate all together. Also light sand on its own is also a maintenance problem anyway. I am considering the media bags with aquasoil under sand approach, but I’m still weighing my options.
 
I really like the look of light sand, but I still don't have it in me to give up an active substrate
I suggest you observe my latest experiment. It is aimed at the question whether aquasoil (an active substrate, as you've put it) presents any advantages over plain silica sand.

My substrate of choice would be silica sand (1.4-2.0 mm) with minor (5 per cent?) addition of powdered clay, and some dust of ferric oxide at the very bottom. My previous experiments suggested that substrates don't get exhausted in time. Quite the contrary, silica sand gets enriched with detritus which is a good adsorbent for nutrients as well as colonization substrate for microbes. After all, we all know that nutrient deficiencies happen most often in new tanks, while mature tanks are more resilient. Even in truly 'lean' tanks like those of mine (low nutrient input, no fish) the substrate gets full of detritus within a couple of months.
 
I am following along with your substrate experiment @_Maq_ but it probably won't be concluded in time and there are too many differences between our setups to generalize the results. I'm interested in where it's going though!

That said, I've seen enough successful tanks using different substrates that I fully believe the active/inactive substrate issue shouldn't make or break the aquarium.
 
It turns out that a month of consistent maintenance really makes a difference. I still have too much green spot algae on older leaves, but BBA is retreating from the hardscape and the glass on the sides and back of the tank is clearing on its own. It's not perfect, but it's an improvement.

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Because I can't leave well enough alone, I've already started messing around with things. I had a crinum that was languishing in a too-small container in the 20 long that I transplanted. I noticed that my LFS has started carrying Tropica products and I got two TC cups - one of stargrass, and one Hottonia palustris. Now, I have some stargrass, but it suffered over the last year and I want to convert more before my big build and I'm hoping this is faster. I've failed with Hottonia before, but that was when the tank was newer and I'm hoping it goes better this time. It's pretty hard to find over here, but I have seen it do well in low tech set ups before and I've wanted it ever since. I've planted in both of my larger tanks (not enough available light in the little one), so hopefully some of them are successful converting.

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As an aside, I'm jealous of anyone who has a good LFS anywhere nearby. I haven't visited mine in maybe 2 years and it was grim - lots of obviously sick fish and a dead body in every third tank. The saltwater side seemed better, so maybe that's where their energy is. I feel comfortable buying fresh TC plants from them, but I would be worried about pathogens for anything from one of the tanks. I know of a few places online with very good reputations that I will be using, but paying for shipping is not fun. I've just joined my local aquarium society, so hopefully I'll have access to a better local network as well. I'm not sure when I'll make it out to a meeting with a clingy infant, but they have a fairly busy presence online as well.
 
Well, folks, I'm in a really bad situation and there's nothing I can do right now.

The power went out unexpectedly at my house midday yesterday and I'm not at home. It was supposed to be fixed in 2 hours, but the power company keeps pushing it back. Currently they are guessing it will be back in 3 more hours.

It's -3c outside right now.

I'm about to find out how cold my fish can get.

My area, like a lot of the US, is experiencing a cold snap, but this power outage is entirely because there was an accident at my particular substation and it's a bad enough to be on the local news. I don't really know how cold it is in my house or in my tanks - hopefully I'm overreacting, but it could also be too late for (some of) my fish. I assume the white clouds can take the temp drop, but I have Gertrude's blue eyes, espei rasbora, neocaridina and a couple of odds and ends.

I am going home this morning. If anyone has any advice on adding heating up a too cold tank, let me know. I have a gas stove and a thermometer I can use even if the power is out. Keep your fingers crossed for me.

edited to add: I'm lightly stocked with fairly shallow tanks and have weathered power outages this long during the summer without issue. I'm not worried about oxygen yet, just the temperature.
 
The blue-eyes might be fine too, their distribution reaches quite far south.
If anyone has any advice on adding heating up a too cold tank, let me know
My main advice would be to make sure you do it slowly. Warm water holds less oxygen, so if you increase the temperature too rapidly it can form small bubbles that damage the fish's gills.

Fingers crossed that all your fish are fine!
 
I am going home this morning. If anyone has any advice on adding heating up a too cold tank, let me know. I have a gas stove and a thermometer I can use even if the power is out. Keep your fingers crossed for me.

I suppose you don't have any gas fireplaces... your house will cool a lot faster than the tanks due to the high specific heat capacity of water, but you obviously want to minimize heat dissipation. Throwing some thermo blankets, or just regular thick blankets over the tanks will slow the cooling.

I have a gas stove and a thermometer I can use even if the power is out.
Worst case scenario, you can drain some tank water and heat it up on the gas stove and slowly mix it back into the tank - go very slow and stir since you don't have any circulation.

Cheers,
Michael
 
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Update: power is finally in the process of being restored to my area, so hopefully it will be back soon. I'm moderately hopeful this will actually happen, but they have pushed their restoration estimate back many times already, so I will believe it when the lights come on.

I ended up staying at my parents' with my kids and my husband did fish-saving efforts today during his lunch hour. It seems like the water temperature bottomed out in the upper 50s (~14.5c) and he brought it up a few degrees with fresh water and left a container of moderately hot water floating in the tank. Hang in there, guys! He said the fish were swimming around, so there's that. I will see what I'm dealing with tomorrow, assuming the power is back on.

I feel awful because I have a plan for this, but was caught flat footed this time because it's unprecedented here to have extended outages unless there is a hurricane or an ice storm, so I typically have a good bit of warning to prepare. There's nothing more to do but wait it out now.
 
@ElleDee, I’d look into a power inverter that you can connect to your car.

Connect to battery, turn on engine, plug in extension cord, plug power strip onto extension cord.

My power went out for a short period of time recently when it was -10F/-23C. Had the inverter in a known place; took it out, installed it and powered my 5’ tank plus a space heater for two hours. My 10 month old never even woke up from his nap.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Whew, what a stressful week. It seems like a crisis was averted - no livestock deaths and aside from a possible unexplained TDS spike everything is back to normal more or less. (No, I haven't fully investigated this and I might not get around to it due to limited free time.) I am not happy with the ludwigia or rotala growth in this tank, but I am counting my blessings this week.

The new additions seem to adapting well enough though. The stargrass looks fantastic and every stem seems to be plumping up nicely. The hottonia is a bit more uneven. I have about six stems that seem to be growing well and have that nice snowflake look and the rest seems to be growing slower or stalled. The common denominator seems to be better substrate access and less competition for light. I like the texture of both of these plants and hope they continue to grow.

I have also added a bit of extra phosphate and it seems to be making a difference with the green spot algae. And by "a bit" I mean I sprinkled a minute amount of KH2PO4 in the tank a few times and watched for any improvement. I am not inclined to buy a phosphate test, so I am flying blind, but no regrets so far.

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I feel like every time I post a tank shot it never looks much different than the one before, but that's the reality.
 
It's been a bit, but everything is humming along. It's been an especially busy time at home, but I've done a respectable job staying on top of things and feel that my efforts have been rewarded.

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The 20-gallon is very chaotic at the moment because there is no scape or concept at all - I am just growing stems to the water line and then replanting the tops where there is room. It's getting jungly again and I do like that.
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The tissue cultures have acclimated well in both tanks and I'm reminded how much easier it is to manage this transition in a mature setup. I should try to remember that for next time and avoid brute forcing a bunch of emerged growth right at set up. I like these two species a lot. The stargrass adds nice lushness and the hottonia has a great texture.
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Everything survived the power outage, but each tank has a few annoying issues. Shortly after the outage all the old leaves on the Ludwigia repens in my 20-gallon quickly deteriorated. I am not worried about this - the dividing line is right where I resumed regular maintenance in December and it doesn’t like change.

Meanwhile over in the 22-gal I am having an issue with the suction cups on my spray bar coming loose and the changing flow has triggered a little BBA where it has never been before even as other sorts of algae are in retreat. I have been sitting on another spray bar for a long time now, so maybe I will change it out the next time I get a chance.
 
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