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Beginner

Good afternoon everyone

Again thank you for your previous answers

Quick question
If I do a 30% to 50% water change, how do I get the new water to a decent temperature before putting it in?. I guess if I do a 10% change it won't affect drastically the general temperature but with a 50% Im worried about killing them.
I guess I could buy a new termomether for the bucket. If that is the case, any thermometer you advise?
I have bought the Seachem Prime that will be used from tomorrow and I have bought some PH testing stripes (that I don't know how to use) but I hope they will help to keep track of the situation in the tank
Please advice
Thank you
 
Just mix water from your hot and cold tap in a bucket, add dechlorinator, then siphon in.

This may not be recommended, but I judge the temperature by hand. I'm always within a couple of degrees. Changes in temperature of that size have never caused an issue.

If you are nervous, Just do.more frequent smaller changes. Or get a thermometer (the digital ones that also measure TDS are handy and only about 10 quid. TDS is something not to worry about right now but could be handy in future.)
 
You could have a thermometer for the bucket, or you could do like I do and stick your hand in the tank to feel the temp, and then stick it in the change water and compare. You want it to be a close match but a few degrees off wont hurt them. I regularly do large (75%) water changes with water up to around 4 degrees lower than the tank.
If youre using tapwater you can match the temperature coming out of the tap before you fill the bucket all the way. Sometimes youll want to adjust a little bit along the way.
If youre buying a thermometer specifically for the bucket I would go with an old fashioned non digital one. They seem to pick up on the temperature the fastest.
For your tank I would suggest a digital thermometer for accuracy.

Seachem Prime is good, dose according to the bottle instructions :thumbup:

PH test is alright, but in the critical startup phase I would prefer to have liquid tests for ammonia (NH3/NH4) and nitrite (NO2). Take note of the -i- in nitrite. Nitr-A-te is not toxic in the same way as nitrite. Liquid tests are more accurate than strips.
If youre on a budget you can just assume that your water will have either ammonia or nitrite and change water anyway, but at some point you will want to know if the tank has "cycled" and is stable, so that you can ramp down your water change schedule. For this the test kits come in handy imo.

I see Kezzab has beaten me to it but I will post anyway to supplement 🙂
 
I’d suggest thermometer, especially if new to the hobby as some fish etc can be sensitive to temp changed. Cheap digital ones off Amazon, I use this one and it adjusts almost instantly.
 

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Hufsa said:
PH test is alright, but in the critical startup phase I would prefer to have liquid tests for ammonia (NH3/NH4) and nitrite (NO2). Take note of the -i- in nitrite. Nitr-A-te is not toxic in the same way as nitrite. Liquid tests are more accurate than strips.
Click to expand...
This! I know a lot on here aren’t a big fan of test kits, but I think getting these two plus a nitrate one will allow you a better idea of what is going on, and where you are with your cycle, rather than just guessing. It will also help you identify any emergency water change situations that need taking care of straight away, which can happen during cycling due to the build up of toxic levels of ammonia or nitrite, which can occur.
This is a better indicator to use than when fish start dying IMO.

Once your ammonia and nitrite levels go down to virtually nothing, and your nitrate levels start rising, you know you are home and dry with the cycling :thumbup:
Some brilliant nuggets of wisdom already posted here by members.

The only thing I would add is that I would advise running the tank a little cooler than 26 as well. 23 or 24 degrees C. More O2 for the fish in the water, less likely to encourage algae/diatom issues and also costs less to run.

Welcome to the forum and good luck with your new aquarium 😀
 
Hi @confusedman

I'm assuming you already have a thermometer in the tank? If this is the case then I personally don't see any need for another one. Like others have said check the bucket temperature via hot/cold tap with your hand and try to match to that of the tank. Next when pouring put your hand on the surface of the tank water palm up and let the water from the bucket run over your palm, if the temp is vastly different you will notice the difference.
As a saftey net just check the temp via the thermometer in your tank after each bucket is poured and adjust to suit.

The ph will likely drop a bit as the tank cycles and its easy to get hung up trying to control it, if you're doing regular large water changes i wouldn't worry to much about it for now.

Do your water changes regularly, don't over feed and check daily that all your fish are still there and looking healthy.

Cheers.
 
Agree with the above other than lowering the temp to much. Angelfish and rams prefer warmer temperatures and I think dropping to 23 at this point is asking for trouble. If you do want to lower the temp maybe drop it 1 degree.
If the tank needs more agitation/ oxygen put an air stone in for now until its cycled.
 
Hello again everyone.
Ive got a question.
If I do daily 20 litres water changes and I use Seachem Prime...
1. I use the product following the dosage indications in the new water (and Im not sure if this Seachem would treat the rest of the water when they mix)? or
2. I should maybe put some in the tank water before I add the new water to treat the potential ammonia?

Thanks again
 
i Believe the instruction is to dose the tank if you change directly to the tank, if via a bucket then dose to the volume of the bucket. I do the later as I pump from a 30lt bucket as my combi boiler doesn’t keep a consistent temp....
 
I pour it in where the hose is pumping into the tank so that it dissipates and mixes quickly when doing it like this. I know it’s fish safe, but I don’t like the idea of just pouring it in to the tank in an area where there is no movement when the filters are off, for fear of the fish swimming through an area where it’s concentrated. Not sure if it might be harmful if breathed in by fish when it’s concentrated for that couple of seconds after being poured in?

Either that or a wait until the water change is done and the filters are back on, and then slowly trickle it into the water jet returning from the filters so it’s mixed quickly.

Im paranoid on this front from an incident I had early in my time of fish keeping, where I used an API product. I just dumped it in the tank when filters were off during a water change, and the next day 75% of my tanks inhabitants were belly up.
I put this down to how I had added the treatment, and have never had the same issue by doing it like this since then.
 
confusedman said:
Hello again everyone.
Ive got a question.
If I do daily 20 litres water changes and I use Seachem Prime...
1. I use the product following the dosage indications in the new water (and Im not sure if this Seachem would treat the rest of the water when they mix)? or
2. I should maybe put some in the tank water before I add the new water to treat the potential ammonia?

Thanks again
Click to expand...
I think you're using a bucket so I'd mix it in with that. A standard dose of prime to treat the whole tank you'd use 1.5mls but for the next week you'd be best to double dose to try and alleviate any ammonia/nitrite build up.
So that would be 3mls at water change split between the number of buckets you use.

Edit... I should add make sure you do your water changes during the day when the light is on and just to be cautious watch the fishes reaction in the immediate hour afterwards ( watch for lethargic behaviour or gasping at surface).It's just a precaution but prime can lower the oxygen levels after initial dosing.

Cheers.
 
Last edited:
UPDATE

The Hemiographis Colorata and the Ophiopogon Japonica P. have been removed. The filter media and the Pistia stratiotes, Salvinia minima and Anubias Barteri kindly donated by Shangman were added. The preexisting Anubias and Anacharis are there too.
The Angelfish, 2 Guppies, the Silver Molly, the Albino Corydora and two Cardinal Tetra went back to the shop.
Unfortunately one Tetra and the two Blue Ram, as John q very well predicted have died (with great feeling of guilt on our side)
So now the Swordtail, one Dalmatian Molly, one Black Molly, one Guppy, one Platy and one Honey Gourami are left.

We've been doing 20 litres water change daily and we were thinking about reducing it at every other day. We are using Seachem Prime.
When should we start adding the TNC Complete for the plants?

Then plan, as advised otherwise is to add a Cory when the tank is more mature. One single Cory or two Pygmy ones?? I read that the Pygmys don't clean as much but at least is not a lonely one. Please advise
The idea is to add a Nerite snail too.

Thanks again for follow this short (but very bumpy) journey
 
Hi confusedman,
I wouldn't feel to guilty about the Rams, their fate was likely decided long before they came into your possession. The vast majority of specimens for sale in local fish stores have very weak immune systems and have often endured a hellish life prior to you chancing upon them.

Regards the corydoras I'm afraid it's bad news, they really should be kept in groups of 6, you could possibly push your luck and have 4 but having 1 isn't really cricket. If you did put 4 in your tank you'd be nearing capacity again.

Without sounding harsh spend a bit of time researching the species you plan on keeping, seriously fish is a good starting point for the basics. Again sorry if this sounds harsh but knowledge is power as they say.

So congratulations on taking some of the fish back and hopefully the ones left will now have a better chance of survival.

Cheers.
 
sparkyweasel said:
That's a good point @alto.
@confusedman ; it's very different to feeding people, or dogs, cats etc. A large part of what we eat is fuel to keep our body temperature constant. A fish's body temp is controlled by its environment so it doesn't need nearly as much food. Also, most of what we eat is largely water, whereas most fishfood is dried, so a flake contains much more nutrition than a piece of, say, cabbage of the same size.
That's me just trying to emphasise, - VERY small amounts of food are plenty. It can be hard to get your head around this.
I know there's a lot to take in at first, but it will all come together. 🙂
Don't get down-hearted. Please keep us updated with developments, good or bad.
You're on the way to a nice tank there, with the way you've arranged the wood, Anubias and Anacharis.
Click to expand...
Thank you @sparkyweasel , very encouraging
 
No more deaths so far. We added some Java Moss today.
Doing 50% water changes every other day. Using Seachem Prime
Now we have a bit of a internal conflict about this Bladder snails: pets or pest?
Flatmate wants to cull them scared that they will turn into hundreds. I would keep them
 
Hello everyone

We have to wait a bit before adding any more fish but we need to start looking at possible candidates.

I don't know why I feel like a Corydora is a "must" in every tank. We originally got an Albino cory that was sent back to the shop when we realised about the overcrowding.
Reading that we have to keep then in groups we decided then to get (in the future) four pygmy ones.
As we wanted to get some shrimps and a Zebra Nerite snail, do you think they would do a similar amount of cleaning..? I mean, could we not have the corys and get somenthing else instead?

What we have atm: 1 swordtail, 1 Guppy, 1 Honey Gourami, 1 Platy, 1 Black Molly, 1 Dalmatian Molly

The original idea getting 4 pygmy corys, two female Guppy, 3 Cherry (for an example) Shrimp and de Zebra Nerite snail. This would take us slightly over capacity

Please advise

If you think of any other fish suitable or you think this proposal is a total disgrace i would like to hear it all.

Thank you
 
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