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Anoxic filtration: An Interview with Kevin Novak. pecktec video link

I recently set up a 215 liter tank. Day 3/4 tank cycling I accidently injected more than needed ammonia (fishless cycle) and ammonia shot to 8 ppm. 2 BCBs and 3/4" gravel (I don't know what worked. My guess is the clay in the BCB) wiped out 8ppm ammonia to 0 in 48 hours. I think it was damn fast and impressive. Of all I had read 4/6ppm ammonia takes a week to get to 0.

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Hi all,
Day 3/4 tank cycling I accidently injected more than needed ammonia (fishless cycle) and ammonia shot to 8 ppm. 2 BCBs and 3/4" gravel (I don't know what worked. My guess is the clay in the BCB) wiped out 8ppm ammonia to 0 in 48 hours. I think it was damn fast and impressive. Of all I had read 4/6ppm ammonia takes a week to get to 0.
I'm not personally a fan of adding ammonia. I like <"plant the tank and wait"> until the plants are grown in method. The advantages of this are that you get a microbial assemblage that is more relevant to the ammonia level in the tank and you have all the advantages of a planted tank when you eventually add livestock.

Have a look at our <"Talking to Dr Tim Hovanec"> thread, it has a bit more of an explanation about the microbes that <"actually perform nitrification"> and why they aren't the ones <"we thought they were">.

We don't really know how <"Biocenosis Buckets"> but it is probably via conventional nitrification, in which case, assuming you had plenty of oxygen in the tank your quick oxidation of ammonia result maybe accurate.

Measuring ammonia/ammonium <"is slightly problematic">, which is one of the advantages of plant and wait, it removes the need for accurate measurement of any form of fixed nitrogen.

cheers Darrel
 
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Hi all,

I'm not personally a fan of adding ammonia. I like <"plant the tank and wait"> until the plants are grown in method. The advantages of this are that you get a microbial assemblage that is more relevant to the ammonia level in the tank and you have all the advantages of a planted tank when you eventually add livestock.

Have a look at our <"Talking to Dr Tim Hovanec"> thread, it has a bit more of an explanation about the microbes that <"actually perform nitrification"> and why they aren't the ones <"we thought they were">.

We don't really know how <"Biocenosis Buckets"> but it is probably via conventional nitrification, in which case, assuming you had plenty of oxygen in the tank your quick oxidation of ammonia result maybe accurate.

Measuring ammonia/ammonium <"is slightly problematic">, which is one of the advantages of plant and wait, it removes the need for accurate measurement of any form of fixed nitrogen.

cheers Darrel
I liked the ammonia method as I found it very easy to work (It was my first ever tank cycling) with and it is definitely fast. I dumped 15 mbunas in the tank as soon as I could once the cycle was over. Can't do that with other methods.
 
Hi all,
and it is definitely fast. I dumped 15 mbunas in the tank as soon as I could once the cycle was over. Can't do that with other methods.
No, you can't. This it is a circumstance where <"ammonia based cycling"> maybe your only option. The issue for me would be that the canister filter is then a single point of failure and that <"eventual disaster is inevitable"> if you don't add some more nitrification capacity.

I've slightly revised my view in light of the <"insane stocking density"> revelations in <"Bio Media for Planted Tanks">. I'm not a mbuna keeper, but if I was to keep a group of highly aggressive and herbivorous fish (let's say Tropheus sp.) I would want to keep them in a tank with a planted trickle filter, because they are the <"Rolls Royce of filters">.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all,

No, you can't. This it is a circumstance where <"ammonia based cycling"> maybe your only option. The issue for me would be that the canister filter is then a single point of failure and that <"eventual disaster is inevitable"> if you don't add some more nitrification capacity.

I've slightly revised my view in light of the <"insane stocking density"> revelations in <"Bio Media for Planted Tanks">. I'm not a mbuna keeper, but if I was to keep a group of highly aggressive and herbivorous fish (let's say Tropheus sp.) I would want to keep them in a tank with a planted trickle filter, because they are the <"Rolls Royce of filters">.

cheers Darrel
I have a cheap diy overhead sump just large enough to hold 2 of my BCBS in a chamber so that mechanically filtered water just flows around it not through it. The baskets have spacers underneath so that water flows around it (top right left and bottom too). Anoxic filteration "bugs" kick in after 2/3 months and I'm waiting for it as those bugs gotta do a lot of work .. because my tap water has 40/80ppm nitrates. So any water changes I do doesn't reduce nitrates in both my tanks. We'll see what happens. Point of failures are the pumps pumping water in the sump. 2 of them. 4" coral gravel substrate with slow water moving plenum underneath.
 
Hi all,
Anoxic filteration "bugs" kick in after 2/3 months and I'm waiting for it as those bugs gotta do a lot of work .. because my tap water has 40/80ppm nitrates.
I would very strongly recommend adding some plants, would a floating one (like Nile Cabbage (Pistia stratiotes)) work with your over tank filter (is there enough light?).

It isn't that the anaerobic denitrification of NO3- and out-gassing as N2 gas doesn't work, it can do, but the advantage of plant growth is that it allows you to <"see how much fixed nitrogen is being removed from the water"> in plant growth.

This picture <"from earlier in the thread"> suggests to me that the "biocenosis buckets" are working mainly by conventional aerobic nitrification, which isn't going to help you with nitrate (NO3-) reduction, but it will help reduce ammonia (NH3) and nitrite (NO2-) levels.

img_0698-jpg-jpg.jpg

This is from <"Optimization of the phytoremediation conditions of wastewater in post-treatment by Eichhornia crassipes and Pistia stratiotes: kinetic model for pollutants removal">.
........... In the case of P. stratiotes, 93.9% of PO43−; 83.4% of NO3−, 99.5% of NH4+ and 84.4% of COD were removed.
cheers Darrel
 
Hi all,

I would very strongly recommend adding some plants, would a floating one (like Nile Cabbage (Pistia stratiotes)) work with your over tank filter (is there enough light?).

It isn't that the anaerobic denitrification of NO3- and out-gassing as N2 gas doesn't work, it can do, but the advantage of plant growth is that it allows you to <"see how much fixed nitrogen is being removed from the water"> in plant growth.

This picture <"from earlier in the thread"> suggests to me that the "biocenosis buckets" are working mainly by conventional aerobic nitrification, which isn't going to help you with nitrate (NO3-) reduction, but it will help reduce ammonia (NH3) and nitrite (NO2-) levels.

img_0698-jpg-jpg.jpg

This is from <"Optimization of the phytoremediation conditions of wastewater in post-treatment by Eichhornia crassipes and Pistia stratiotes: kinetic model for pollutants removal">.

cheers Darrel
I used bottled drinking water (20 liter cans) initially .. while cycling the nitrates were never more than 10ppm but I found out later that expensive water had high nitrites! So I switched back to tap water. I have Coontail in mind. Might keep some in a mesh bag in the sump. Yes there is light but the chamber in the SUMP is not that big. We'll see.

SUMP.jpg
 
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Hi all,
I have Coontail in mind. Might keep some in a mesh bag in the sump.
<"I like Ceratophyllum demersum"> (Hornwort or Coontail). It wouldn't be as efficient as a surface floating plant, because it doesn't have access to atmospheric CO2.

I would definitely let it float free, it needs all the light it can get.

cheers Darrel
 
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