• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

Ammonite jungle retreat.

I ask because your sump wont be at all suitable for a low tech as there is so little Co2 available in a low tech, what there would be, will in fact be gassed off down the overflow LOL
In my opinion, if you are going high tech, then you would really benefit from a better substrate like ADA.
I noticed you posted on our friend with the 5' tank & sumps thread... did you note he uses 7kg of gas every 8 weeks!!!

I think you need to make a decision which way to turn....

If it helps you - I would say to expect very slow growth from a low tech (painfully slow from my personal experience) & if you choose high tech just be prepared for the amount of C02 required to run your sump.
I am not trying to put you off either method just making sure you are ready for the contrasting choice!
 
thanks for the quick reply!
yes had noticed amount of CO2!
I'm am in no rush at all with this tank so all feedback and help is gratefully received!

it's all a new learning curve for me from what I was used to with marines.
 
Hi all,
I ask because your sump wont be at all suitable for a low tech as there is so little Co2 available in a low tech, what there would be, will in fact be gassed off down the overflow
This isn't necessarily true, trickle filters are very efficient at gas exchange, which when you are low tech. is actually an advantage. If you don't add CO2, normally during the photo-period the water will have very low levels of CO2, because it is continually depleted by photosynthesis. The water will be fully saturated with oxygen via the same process. If you have a large gas exchange surface that CO2 depleted water will re-equilibrate with atmospheric levels of CO2 more quickly and CO2 is a relatively soluble gas .

At night you would normally get a build-up of CO2 (and depletion of dissolved oxygen) when all of the biomass is respiring. In a trickle filter this effect is less marked, again due to the large gas exchange surface.

You can measure the changes in pH. In situations with a wide variation in CO2 and O2 ratios you will get a lot of variation in pH, where levels are more stable these changes are reduced. The actual variation in values will depend upon the carbonate buffering of the water.

cheers Darrel
 
I also am not convinced by the argument for minimising gaseous exchange in low tech setups. As Darrel points out, with a sump, trickle filter or as in my case a large, shallow tank with high surface area to volume ratio, dissolved co2 should remain relatively stable, which I can only see as a good thing.

It also means you don't need to be scared about water changes, as some low tech people are, as any swings in CO2 from fresh water should quickly revert to equilibrium.
 
OK then I am obviously wrong so get going with them water changes & overflows & trickle filters & let me now how it goes!


Hah, I don't know about 'obviously wrong'. Until someone does some proper experiments we're all just largely going off supposition, hunches and gut feeling anyway. For what it's worth, I've got tanks with lots of surface movement as I described, and others which are pretty much stagnant. They all have lots of healthy plants and barely a speck of algae, so its not like taking one approach over the other will condemn you instantly to failure. Sensible light levels, appropriate choice of plants and good starting plant biomass are probably more important.
 
Should look nice all planted up! What are your plans for plants?

Yes, running the sump will enable you to start maturing the media if you pipe the return to the first chamber. Just be wary of a fluctuation in params when you bring the main tank online - it'll be like having a MASSIVE water change on that so may not do the cycle much good.
 
This is my starting point for plants. Although I am tempted in trying a DSM for moss.

Anubias spp.
Aponogeton natans/crispus
Bolbitis heudelotii
Ceratopteris spp.
Cryptocoryne spp.
Echinodorus spp. inc tenellus
Egeria densa
Fontinalis antipyretica
Hygrophilia spp.
Lilaeopsis brasiliensis/novae-zelandiae
Ludwigia repens/natans
Microsorium pteropus. var.
Pistia stratiotes
Salvinia auriculata
Sagittaria spp.
Vallisneria spp.
Vesicularia dubyana
I've added some more stones around the base of the wood to blend them in a bit more.
 
Now that my tank is getting there I am now onto livestock options.

Questions. What are stocking limit guidelines and if I put tetras and gouramis in can I still have shrimp?!
 
Back
Top