Yep, although I despise doing water changes I know that it's one of the tools in our arsenal for high tech tanks. Once you get into the habit of the water changes and integrate it into your life's routine the dreariness will dissipate. I don't like getting up out of my nice warm bed early every morning either, but it's just something that's gotta be done, isn't it? More fish are killed by dirty water than any other cause, including CO2 OD.
TrickyT said:
I purchased the Interpet Anti Hair Algae for my LFS the said it would give removing the algae a ;jump start; but not solve the problem. The did not stock the JBL SIliccatEX but it was he had used and it had cured his problem. Had to go to another LFS to get it.
Well, Methadone was used as a jump start the kicking of heroin addiction, then the users got addicted to Methadone.
Here is what JBL has to say about SilicatEx:
A special filter material which eliminates silicic acid and phosphate
* Silicate (silicic acid, SiO2) causes unattractive diatom algae in the aquarium.
* Mains water often contains levels of silicates which create problems with diatom algae.
* This filter material permanently absorbs silicate and phosphate, preventing the growth of diatom.
* 1 packet (500 g) absorbs 5000 mg/l SiO2 or PO4 and is sufficient for 200-400 litres.
* For freshwater and saltwater.
We've already had plenty of evidence that Silicic acid and it's precipitates have no correlation with diatom algae and therefore cannot be a cause. People who use RO water are just as likely to get diatom algae as anyone else. We also see that diatomic algae typically forms under high light at tank setup but rarely if ever recurs in the tank after some months even though the levels of silicates are just as high later on as they were at tank setup. So this conclusion is completely inaccurate. ADA Powersand is made of Pumice which is extremely high in silicates, so this should mean, for example, that those who use PS should have a higher incidence of diatomic algae, which is not the case at all. I've used mains water for decades and I don't have diatom problems unless I turn up the lights prematurely. I actually have had higher occurrence of diatoms using RO water, so again, this is a mis-correlation. As far as the PO4 removal, we know that's a red herring. I use tons of PO4 and have neither diatoms nor BBA, nor hair as a result. Removing PO4 from a high tech tank only causes more problems. While it may be true that diatom algae feed on silicates, it is not true that silicates can cause the appearance of diatom. So if it's not true for diatomic algae then it's certainly not true for BBA/hair which has nothing to do with silicates or with PO4. It's very difficult to demonstrate cause and effect in complex systems like our tanks. We don't really know what cured this persons problem unless we were to know all the things that he did and unless we knew all the environmental conditions he set forth in the tank.
TrickyT said:
I have never though of adding Excel, used to use it before I got my CO2, is it ok to use it as well as CO2?
There is no reason why Excel cannot be used as a CO2 supplement along with gas injection. Excel/Easycarbo is the one true silver bullet in our arsenal because it addresses the root cause of CO2 related algae by feeding the plants with CO2 while at the same time being toxic to algae. it's only drawbacks are that it's expensive and that it can also be toxic to us. Used daily with care, it's the best jump start you can do, especially if you have concerns about gas toxicity to fauna.
TrickyT said:
I have 2 drop checkers in different areas of the tank, which are both the 'correct' colour green Should I increase the injection so that it goes nearer the LIME colour, but keep an eye on my fish for distress? I will also start injecting 3 hours before lights on.
The spray bars of the 2 pumps are at about 30 degrees down from the surface of the tank. Should I change this to around 45 degrees to 'push' the water around a bit more?
Well, lime green is our reference color but it does not automatically mean that it's sufficient for a given tank. That's because the CO2 profile of a tank is not homogeneous. The concentration in the plant beds can be as little as one tenth the level at the top of the tank, especially if flow distribution is sub-par. I assume you are using 4dkh water in the dropcheckers and not tap water or tank water? Otherwise the lime green reading is a complete illusion. Also, When is it lime green? If the checkers are not lime green when the lights turn on then this is also a CO2 concentration instability and will contribute to BBA.
Filter outlet placement and flow distribution are both science and art. I normally don't angle the flow downards, but instead keep the spraybar effluent strictly horizontal. As long as the flowrate is strong this usually is the better geometry. Read about it in these threads:
Difference in drop checker readings in different positions
Water flow in the planted aquarium?
Cheers,