90l tank Filtosmart Thermo 200 vs 300

[IJLFishy]

Hi all I'm setting up a new 90l rimless tank that will be heavily planted, CO2, with Chihiros A601 light. I really don't want a visible heater in a tank that size if I can help it. I'm looking at the Oase Filtosmart filters either the 200 or 300. Does anyone with experience of these filters think the 200 is sufficient?

My other option was going to be a Fluval 207 with a JBL in line heater but just seems like a leak waiting to happen?

Thanks

Any other ideas welcome

 

[MrClockOff]

Hi, I’d say 300 for CO2 injected tank as it does move 10 times more water an hour that size of your tank.

Cheers
Dan

 

[IJLFishy]

Hi thanks!

Would a Biomaster 350 be too much/overkill for this tank?

 

[Tim1343]

I’m running a Biomaster Thermo 350 on my 60 litre tank. And I think I need more flow. So in my opinion definitely not overkill for a 90 litre.

 

[MrClockOff]

Hi thanks!

Would a Biomaster 350 be too much/overkill for this tank?

Even better as you get higher flow rate and prefilter.

 

[IJLFishy]

Thanks went with the Filtosmart 300 in the end as the Biomaster I wanted was on eBay and sold. I watched a video on YouTube by Pondguru on this filter and was going to copy his changes but it looks like he's misunderstood the flow of this specific filter. Is the biohome he talks about worth the extra cost? Thanks

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

is the biohome he talks about worth the extra cost?

<"No">. I'm guessing it works fine as an aerobic filter media, mainly <"because of its shape">.

Floating cell media is probably <"the best filter medium">, but <"they all work">, as long as you keep <"them fully oxygenated">. <"Best Filter Media">.

The only issue surrounding canister filters and nitrification is the <"finite amount of dissolved oxygen"> that enters the canister.

Anybody who talks about <"simultaneous aerobic nitrification and anaerobic denitrification"> in a filter is either after your money, confused <"or deluded">.

I watched a video on YouTube by Pondguru on this filter and was going to copy his changes but it looks like he's misunderstood the flow of this specific filter

He just wants to <"sell you some Biohome">.

cheers Darrel

 

[IJLFishy]

Thanks for your help. Lots of reading there and very interesting! I fell down several rabbit holes along the way.

So I've garnered that I don't need to worry too much about what kind of bio media I use but focus more on maintaining well oxygenated water 24/7. Ensure high levels of gas exchange (surface agitation, plants, CO2 - I'll have to reread some of these posts) and to use coarse sponges in the filter which will prevent clogging and will allow the circulating water to remain well oxygenated which will also help the filter manage bioload more effectively?

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

So I've garnered that I don't need to worry too much about what kind of bio media I use but focus more on maintaining well oxygenated water 24/7.

That is it for me, <"everything else is less important">. I think @_Maq_ is of the same opinion.

Ensure high levels of gas exchange (surface agitation, plants, CO2 - I'll have to reread some of these posts) and to use coarse sponges in the filter which will prevent clogging and will allow the circulating water to remain well oxygenated which will also help the filter manage bioload more effectively?

Yes, exactly that, use <"simple and robust mechanisms"> to oxidise any ammonia (<"TAN - NH3 / NH4+">) and nitrite (NO2-) and then use plants (and water changes) to mop up the nitrate (NO3-) resulting from microbial nitrification. <"Correspondence with Dr Ryan Newton - School of Freshwater Sciences, University of Wisconsin—Milwaukee">. It really is as <"simple as that">.

I also use the <"leaf color and growth"> of a floating plant to estimate the fixed nitrogen content of the tank <"The scientific background to the "Leaf Colour Chart"">. At some point I'm going to try Red-root Floater (Phyllanthus fluitans) <"in the mix as well">.

cheers Darrel

 

[_Maq_]

help the filter manage bioload more effectively?

I'd like to stress that in a modestly stocked planted tank the bioload is largely managed by the tank itself. The plants' roots in collaboration with microbes together present a very efficient, complex, and truly "natural" filtration system. Modest fish-feeding and good oxygenation is all it needs to work.
As for the filter, rather than biofiltration, it ought to be used for mechanical and chemical filtration, and, essentially, to make the water (and surface) move. Canister filters should be just modestly filled with media; we want the water running unhindered and well-oxygenated. Ordinary sponges provide good basic mechanical filtration and can host decomposing microbes as well. For chemical filtration, I often use activated carbon to lower dissolved organic compounds in the water column. Still, activated carbon cannot completely replace water changes. There are supposedly "things" in the water which accumulate in time and may do a harm. We don't know much of a detail on those "things", but regular water changes have been proving beneficial without much dispute in the community.

 

[IJLFishy]

Hi didn't want to start a new thread purely to ask this question.

For those that use steel lily pipes do you use jubilee clips (something else intended for this purpose) to secure your filter hose to the pipes?

Thanks

 

[hwscot]

My other option was going to be a Fluval 207 with a JBL in line heater but just seems like a leak waiting to happen?

I have a Blau 90L cube tank, been running a couple of years now. Main filtration is a 207 which I suspect is more than adequate although, being a bit belt and braces I also use a small internal power filter with a sponge, which also aids flow. I have mini K1 in the middle basket .. a bit of a pain to manage it when cleaning as the stuff gets everywhere till you get the knack of managing the baskets, but seems to be doing an excellent job. Sponge prefilter on the intake and when I do clean out the filter there is barely anything to clean. The hose tap block thingy works very well, but I guess an inline heater must be a risk. I've hidden my heater behind scape.

 

[bazz]

Hi didn't want to start a new thread purely to ask this question.

For those that use steel lily pipes do you use jubilee clips (something else intended for this purpose) to secure your filter hose to the pipes?

Thanks

I don't even with a 2180 blowing through it, just warm the tube with hot water, push on using a wiggle motion ensuring it's well seated, allow to cool and harden for a couple of minutes, switch on filter.
Cheers!