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10 planted tank myths

Hi Darrel,
dw1305 said:
I also agree with "Glueyporch", assuming that sufficient PAR is supplied the potential for plant growth is increased by the addition of macronutrients (including a carbon source), and when I say plants, I am covering the whole range of photosynthetic organisms.
The problem with lumping all autotrophs together is that they each will have different mechanism. So it's easy to say that Growth Potential is increased for all with increasing nutrient concentration, but what we are saying is that the triggers are not the same for algae as they are for Macrophytes. The mechanisms are similar but not exactly the same. Algae have the spore and vegetative states. The only analog you could compare with Macrophytes would be stem and flower. It's really difficult to predict, for example under what conditions a submersed macrophyte would flower. Nutrients alone would not necessarily do it but may be part of the trigger equation. It appears to be a similar story with algal blooms, because they bloom from spores.

Nutrients alone will not trigger a bloom. Once the bloom occurs the nutrient concentration may be a factor in rate of growth, so that's where the "potential" would come in, and I'm not even sure that it does because I've seen some brutal algal blooms in nutrient starved tanks, which leads me to believe that algae don't even care that much about nutrient concentration even in the vegetative state. We've shown that they certainly don't care when they are in the spore state.

I think people don't pay enough attention to the transitive nature of algae and the existence of the two states. We've observed that plant health, more so than just plant growth, is a stronger factor in determining whether or not there is a bloom. The path to plant health lies in availability of those very same nutrients others decry.

In your tank, I'm fairly certain that despite your claim of low nutrients, that there would be plenty of nutrients in the sediment due to reclamation of plant biomass from decaying tissue, food and fish waste. There may even be nutrients in the tap you use for water changes as well, although I don't really know that, and of course that wouldn't be true if you're using RO. As you mention, the long term stability of the tank allows the plants to adapt to the lighting levels, to become better CO2 gatherers, and allow shading or other adaptations to the light energy. But I'm pretty sure that did not happen overnight.

It's a similar story with Viktors observations:
viktorlantos said:
...As many stuff in this hobby this isn't a simple yes or no of course. I can grow HC with a 30cm nano with 2 small lamps in our gallery, but using the same plant in a 45cm height 240L tank and using only mid light there and the plant will look very different or will die off. Of course with a par meter i could identify easily how much light it gets on the bottom in both tank, but i only can measure it if i succeed somewhere. So at least i have a working example on a specific plant.
Viktor I reckon a lot has to do with CO2/flow/distribution. It's easy to get good flow in a 30cm nano but not very easy to get good flow in a 240L behemoth. Here is D. diandra and P. stellata under a low light condition. The nutrient loading was, as usual for me, quite massive. Flow/distribution was excellent. Now, fair enough, I got bored and added huge levels of light, causing the stelleta to smother the diandra into oblivion.
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There's plenty of evidence that these plants don't need massive lighting, but that they definitely have a higher LCP than say, that of a fern, or a moss. As I always say, difficult plants are difficult because they require better flow and more CO2, not just because they have a higher LCP.

Cheers,
 
It comes back down to the question: Are the high light plants or are they actually high CO2 demand plants (which in most cases is pushed up at the same time as the light is increased. I make no secret that I favour the latter description here and think that if the CO2 was pushed up and the lights left alone you would end up with Tom's result (if you know what you are doing)

I think you're missing the point of the article a little Viktor. It's not a 'guide on how to gain success'. Its not to be used as a 'it says here that this can happen so it should for me. Its quite simply dismissing the myths within the hobby that we are know are false.

Like Tom says. You can grow supposed highlight plants under very low light. So there's no point in the article saying that 'some people can' it is purely dismissing the myth rather than giving a breakdown of how many people can do it.

A Goalkeeper can score a goal from his own six yard box 120 yards away. 1000 people can try it though and what would the result be? However we have to say that it is possible. We can never say that it can't happen because the 1 in a million (Pat Jennings springs to mind) has shown it is possible and therefore that is what the article points out.

Andy
 
viktorlantos said:
Tom, do you have a reference where plants requirement include micromols? I would love to use that too.

Nope, I got something better, a light CO2 curve, Troels and Ole likely got a few of these maybe? Maybe not.........

See figure 6.

Not easy to make and not much $ for research, but it's where most of the action is I believe.

http://www.plantphysiol.org/content/58/6/761.full.pdf

Here you can see at low light, that the plants are EXTREMELY competitive for what? CO2.
So they can start photosynthesizing asap, and suck out all the CO2.

This way in natural systems, they beat out the other species.
This is what drives evolution in aquatic FW, low light and good CO2 uptake.

when we add CO2, this removes the competitive interactions...........so we can easily grow many different plant species together, in non CO2 systems, we also trim and can remove, but often, we see a dominate species in sucgh systems, rarely a wide range of diversity, if so....it's either a large system with few plant % total biomass, or CO2 enriched springs..........

Regarding light and low CO2/high CO2, low light./high light,. Troels and Ole put out this article which I've linked MANY times:

http://www.tropica.com/advising/technic ... light.aspx

So there's some research references that offer support for what George stated.

I do not find anything that George stated problematic at all, and he questions these things.........which is not bad.
We do not know many things, but basing them on poor assumptions is even worse IMO.
 
dw1305 said:
I think that, as long as you are prepared to have a "low tech - low nutrient - low productivity" aquarium, nutrient reduction is a valid technique of planted aquarium management. I also think that for the majority of "non-specialist" planted tank keepers it is a better option than EI.

Why is it a better option? because any changes happen more slowly, and this stability gives the aquarium keeper more chance to find out what has gone "wrong".

I agree, and from a simple success %, it's the highest % success rates with folks if they follow the advice. but they love the CO2 dope...........

Would I trade stability, a more limited range of plants and some periphyton development for an "all singing, all dancing" High Tech tank? I'm not an aquascaper, so no, I would choose stability every time.

cheers Darrel

As I often state, no one method will meet all goals of the aquarist.
Many that are very passionate about plants and scaping however will want to garden and those will collectoritus disease also seek CO2............

Same with Reef folks wanting to frag SPS corals, you can grow them with less light, but colors lack and growth rates are slower. Plants? I'm less sure about more light giving better color vs simple developmental time for Chl a/b masking the reds etc. I've run some tanks with moderate low light and actually measured it with the meters and found most nice well scaped tanks are about 40-50micromols over the sediment.

These are tanks in the top 20 of the ADA contest.
Curiously, my own tanks sit in this same range.

I do think there is a lot to be said for good light management for goals whether it be CO2 or no CO2 methods.

You can still do a darn good job scaping without CO2 or Excel/easy carbo, my own Bettea macrostoma tank:

ca09afe4.jpg

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So a nice looking scape and novel technique, methods can be done there as well.
 
I have to agree with Viktor regarding light. It's true that medium lighting can probably grow most plants, but some plants really need higher intensity lighting in order to reach their full potential. For example, turning plants like Rotala sp red and Ludwigia inclinata verticillata var Cuba orange/pinkish. I managed to get my hands on a PAR meter recently and checking my LIV var Cuba stem, it only starts turning reddish in its veins at ~200 umols. That's quite a lot of lighting.

I personally feel that a nice glosso/HC carpet in CO2-injected tanks is not considered difficult these days due to the wide-spread availability of nutrient-rich substrates, CO2 equipment, big filters and good lighting technology.

All this is based on my own experience with my own tanks. I don't consider myself an expert in any way.
 
flygja said:
I have to agree with Viktor regarding light. It's true that medium lighting can probably grow most plants, but some plants really need higher intensity lighting in order to reach their full potential. For example, turning plants like Rotala sp red and Ludwigia inclinata verticillata var Cuba orange/pinkish. I managed to get my hands on a PAR meter recently and checking my LIV var Cuba stem, it only starts turning reddish in its veins at ~200 umols. That's quite a lot of lighting.

I personally feel that a nice glosso/HC carpet in CO2-injected tanks is not considered difficult these days due to the wide-spread availability of nutrient-rich substrates, CO2 equipment, big filters and good lighting technology.

All this is based on my own experience with my own tanks. I don't consider myself an expert in any way.

Here's the same plant you imply needs 200 micromol growing here at 50 micromols, nice lawn of HC and plenty of pantanal. Cuba is even easier........

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It's about 120 here near the surface.
220Lcuba.jpg


But the bottom of the tank is still 40-50.............and the W/liter or Gal is pretty low, well under 2w/gal.
 
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