10 gallon shallow rescape

[dw1305]

Hi all,

the soil isn’t keeping it stable, in my opinion anyway

OK that makes a bit more sense. It won't, ion exchange doesn't work quite like that.

If you want stable dKH you need a <"carbonate buffer">. Normally that would be limestone (CaCO3) which will go into solution until you reach about 18 dGH and 18 dKH, when the water is <"fully saturated with calcium (Ca++) and bicarbonate (2HCO3-) ions">.

If you add a more soluble carbonate compound (which is actually all of them, CaCO3 has the lowest solubility) then solid CaCO3 will precipitate out of solution and if you add an acid (a proton (H+ ion) donor) then some of that HCO3- will be converted to CO2 and more of the limestone buffer (solid CaCO3) will go into solution. If you have a limestone buffer? The dKH will always be stable, and it will always be ~18dKH.

This is the water chemistry that allows <"Neothauma shell beds"> to build up in lake Tanganyika, or Coral reefs build in the sea.

I tested a little in tap water first and that was the effect it had. Genuinely curious how it will effect my tanks soft water.

The softer water is the longer the <"active substrate will remain active for">, this is <"just the numbers game"> in the graphic below.

into a tank with a KH of 7 (in theory I’d like it at 4),

The active substrate won't do that. You could use an inert substrate and RO and add a <"carbonate compound"> (like KHCO3) to give you 4dKH.

1dKH = 10.7145 ppm CO3

If you want 4dKH because "nitrification is compromised at less than 4 dKH"? That just isn't true.

cheers Darrel

 

[Aktasak]

Hi all,

OK that makes a bit more sense. It won't, ion exchange doesn't work quite like that.

If you want stable dKH you need a <"carbonate buffer">. Normally that would be limestone (CaCO3) which will go into solution until you reach about 18 dGH and 18 dKH, when the water is <"fully saturated with calcium (Ca++) and bicarbonate (2HCO3-) ions">.

If you add a more soluble carbonate compound (which is actually all of them, CaCO3 has the lowest solubility) then solid CaCO3 will precipitate out of solution and if you add an acid (a proton (H+ ion) donor) then some of that HCO3- will be converted to CO2 and more of the limestone buffer (solid CaCO3) will go into solution. If you have a limestone buffer? The dKH will always be stable, and it will always be ~18dKH.

This is the water chemistry that allows <"Neothauma shell beds"> to build up in lake Tanganyika, or Coral reefs build in the sea.

The softer water is the longer the <"active substrate will remain active for">, this is <"just the numbers game"> in the graphic below.

The active substrate won't do that. You could use an inert substrate and RO and add a <"carbonate compound"> (like KHCO3) to give you 4dKH.

If you want 4dKH because "nitrification is compromised at less than 4 dKH"? That just isn't true.

cheers Darrel

This is all so foreign to me, I’m new to aquasoil, RO and all, it’s all just making me more confused than I already am. 😫

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

it’s all just making me more confused than I already am

Buffering and pH are <"fairly complex concepts">. A lot of people will use this to try and sell you useless (or minimally useful) products to counter a problem that doesn't really exist.

Have a look at <"Aqua Noob"> distilled in <"Bedside Aquarium">

Personally I'd recommend just using the water you've got <"Aquarium Gardens">. I'm a rainwater user (I've always used rainwater), but if I didn't have access to rainwater? I'd use our tap water.

dare someone to say hardwater is an inhibitor to an amazing scape!

cheers Darrel

 

[Aktasak]

Hi all,

Buffering and pH are <"fairly complex concepts">. A lot of people will use this to try and sell you useless (or minimally useful) products to counter a problem that doesn't really exist.

Have a look at <"Aqua Noob"> distilled in <"Bedside Aquarium">

Personally I'd recommend just using the water you've got <"Aquarium Gardens">. I'm a rainwater user (I've always used rainwater), but if I didn't have access to rainwater? I'd use our tap water.


cheers Darrel

I won’t go back to using my tap water sadly, it’s just too hard to use with my betta, RO is the only way.
I’m just wanting to rescape my tank with soil and inert sand, but it just seems to get more and more confusing and frustrating. 😂😭

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

I won’t go back to using my tap water sadly, it’s just too hard to use with my betta, RO is the only way.

You can remineralise your RO water with a minimal amount of tap water. All the other mineral nutrients you add with your fertiliser addition, it honestly is as simple as that.

Cheers Darrel

 

[Aktasak]

Hi all,

You can remineralise your RO water with a minimal amount of tap water. All the other mineral nutrients you add with your fertiliser addition, it honestly is as simple as that.

Cheers Darrel

So would you think that using the Fluval stratum and then only adding minerals for the GH as the stratum would take care of the KH? If it’s possible to run a tank on 0kh, then I’d be okay doing that, I think.

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

If it’s possible to run a tank on 0kh, then I’d be okay doing that

It is definitely possible <"Soft water tank">. These "active substrates" were developed for <"Bee Shrimp keepers">, who want water with low carbonate hardness.

So would you think that using the Fluval stratum and then only adding minerals for the GH as the stratum would take care of the KH?

Not exactly, the substrate won't add any hardness (dGH), what will happen is that the initial H+ ions on the exchange site in the substrate will be swapped for a calcium ion (Ca++) from the water column. This process will continue until there are an equal concentration of calcium ions in substrate and water, at which point the substrate is no longer "actively" reducing the pH of the water.

It is your tap water that adds calcium and bicarbonate (HCO3-) ions, magnesium (Mg) ions are added in your fertiliser addition (or as "Epsom Salts"). If you add more tap water the substrate will stop being active more quickly <"Tropica soil raising my KH">.

If you really didn't want to use tap water?

Scrapped this remineralisation as did it with the last scape and it worked out fine, nothing worth repeating. Changed to 90% RO and 10% Cambridgeshire tap to remineralise for something new. It’s also quicker, easier and cheaper… what’s not to love?

You could add a minimal amount of dGH and dKH via calcium chloride (CaCl2.nH2O) and <"potassium bicarbonate (KHCO3)">.

cheers Darrel

 

[Aktasak]

Not exactly, the substrate won't add any hardness (dGH), what will happen is that the initial H+ ions on the exchange site in the substrate will be swapped for a calcium ion (Ca++) from the water column. This process will continue until there are an equal concentration of calcium ions in substrate and water, at which point the substrate is no longer "actively" reducing the pH of the water.

It is your tap water that adds calcium and bicarbonate (HCO3-) ions, magnesium (Mg) ions are added in your fertiliser addition (or as "Epsom Salts"). If you add more tap water the substrate will stop being active more quickly <"Tropica soil raising my KH">.

So if I just use a GH buffer, would that work as well? I’m planning on doing the rescape today and I’m still super torn on what to do and what works best for my fish (and Nerite snail), plants and the tank long term.

Sorry if I’m being a bit dumb or not understanding properly, like I said, I’m really new to all of this still. 😫

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

(and Nerite snail),

So your Nerite needs harder, more alkaline water. If you want softer water for your Betta? You will need to rehome the Nerite.

They are just organisms that have a different water quality requirements <"Advice on KH">, you can think of it like one needs a sauna and one a fridge. There might be a lukewarm room where they could both exist, but your Nerite won't survive in softer, more acidic water.

cheers Darrel

 

[Aktasak]

Hi all,

So your Nerite needs harder, more alkaline water. If you want softer water for your Betta? You will need to rehome the Nerite.

They are just organisms that have a different water quality requirements <"Advice on KH">, you can think of it like one needs a sauna and one a fridge. There might be a lukewarm room where they could both exist, but your Nerite won't survive in softer, more acidic water.

cheers Darrel

Ah yes I completely forgot that the snail would need harder water! I can definitely sort out rehoming the little guy, as much as I love watching the snail in action.

 

[Aktasak]

I ended up taking the plunge! I used the Flora First Brown Planting Substrate rather than the Stratum, so far so good KH has remained stable at 7, GH is currently 12 which is a bit higher than I’d like but it was around this in the previous scape. More plants will be added, I’ve got my eye Blyxa japonica, Echinodorus aquartica and Rotala H’ra, any advice would be appreciated for plant ideas.

Testing has gone well too, with ammonia and nitrite at 0; haven’t tested the nitrate though so I’ll do that next.

I might consider changing the filter though, it’s a bit of an eye sore! I’ve got my eye on the Oase filtosmart 60 or the 100! Paired with these: Aquario Premium Neo Flow ver.2 Medium 13mm
But I’m concerned my betta will be stupid enough to get himself sucked into the skimmer 🤦‍♀️

Thanks!!

 

[Aktasak]

Just wondering if a nutrient rich aquasoil can raise GH, its keeping my KH very stable at 7 though which is nice.
I imagine it can due to initial leeching of nutrients until it’s stabilised.

Thanks! ☺️

 

[Aktasak]

AR Mini is currently looking bad, it seems to be turning green? I might look at lowering the light a little, little bit of staghorn too as well I think..
Not much to update here, haven’t seen much change in any plants except the AR Mini but I think it’s too soon to say.