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What dechlorinator?

EA James

Member
Joined
22 Jul 2019
Messages
572
Location
Staines-upon-Thames
Hi all,
Long time user of seachem prime here, I had the 1L bottle that has lasted me years! Obviously its a great product but is there an alternative? Just curious that's all.

I have a 300L tank that's now been running about 6 years so its super mature! Not sure if that makes a difference?!!
Just interested to hear some opinions or options

Cheers, James
 
They pretty much all do the same (make chlorine and chloramine safe for inhabitants), but the only difference is a) the chemicals they use to do that and b) what additions they include.

I have used 2HR Aquairst Pure, API Water Conditioner, Vitamin C, and some other brands like AquaCare. There does seem to be some narrative that sodium thiosulfate is harder to overdose, but I am not a chemist!
 
Hi all,
Long time user of seachem prime here, I had the 1L bottle that has lasted me years! Obviously its a great product but is there an alternative? Just curious that's all.

I have a 300L tank that's now been running about 6 years so its super mature! Not sure if that makes a difference?!!
Just interested to hear some opinions or options

Cheers, James
It really has nothing to do with the size or maturity of a tank. It’s about ensuring fish and other livestock are not exposed to any chlorine.

I’m not sure what the maximum allowed levels in tap water are outside North America. But here the maximum is 4ppm.

When chlorine comes in contact with organic matter it causes cell damage which is reasonably quickly fatal to microorganisms but larger organisms - like us & fish too, need longer contact times to be harmed.

Fish exposed to chlorine long enough are likely to show signs of breathing trouble first, such as gasping at the surface. There can be neurological symptoms such being unable to maintain normal swimming posture or necrosis in the gill tissues.

Or a fish may simply die suddenly.

If you do a big water change and forget the dechlorinator, you won’t see anything untoward happen right away.

Look at instructions for using bleach water to disinfect surfaces as an example. They all say the surface must be clean first - no dirt or grease can be present because it interferes with direct contact of chlorine & organisms.

Then once the bleach water is applied, the surface must remain wet for at least ten minutes in order for the solution to have the desired effect.

Technically speaking, in a lot of tanks you could add a few litres of water that isn’t dechlorinated and have nothing noticeably bad happen to the fish - it will get oxidized by microorganisms before it’s been there long enough to damage the fish.

But dechlorinators aren’t a huge expense and I very strongly favour the ‘better safe than sorry’ approach when it comes to their use.

There are other brands similar to Prime but only one that I am aware of which is as concentrated as Prime.

Seachem Safe is much more concentrated because it’s a dry powder but dosing it accurately for water volumes in the average aquarium is rather inconvenient because it is so concentrated. One has to measure doses of mere milligrams.

Seachem says you can’t mix up a batch of Safe to use as you would you use Prime because it won’t last, which might be true or possibly just self serving.

But why risk plants and fish you care about?
 
I have an under sink water filter in the kitchen (and also use Rainwater) so I don’t use a Dechlorinator for water changes.
I do though use *Sodium Thiosulphate when I regenerate Purigen.
At least I did. I’ve never checked before but the test strips I used last time didn’t show any Chlorine after just rinsing the Purigen in tap water so I’m not sure it’s really needed?

* Crystals bought from a Chemical Company on eBay.
 
I like vitamin C as a dechlorinator because it is good for the health of most living organisms. I dislike adding sulphur to the aquarium like you get with most of the commercial aquarium dechlorinators.

It has been claimed on certain websites that using vitamin C as a dechlorinator is "bad" because it adds organic compounds to the tank water. I argue that all organic compounds are not created equal. For example: would you rather eat a vitamin C tablet or a tablet made from dried poo?
 
What dosage do you use?
The dose I used was 1 gram of Vitamin C per 100 litres of water, which is enough to treat over 3 ppm of chlorine/chloramines in the water.

I used to test for Total Chlorine, and it never got above 0.8 ppm where I live, so this was MORE than enough. Testing after using Vitamin C showed a 0 PPM Total Chlorine reading. So, it did indeed work!
 
Pretty cool.
It actually is pretty cool! Not sure why I stopped, really, went back to sodium thiosulfate for some reason. Perhaps I could not believe it actually was effective?!

I used it for about a month (4 water changes) and did not see any negative impact on fish or plants, nor algae issues.
 
Hi all,
..... I’m not sure what the maximum allowed levels in tap water are outside North America. But here the maximum is 4ppm....
Normally 0.5 ppm in the UK, and chlorine (Cl2), rather than chloramine (NH2Cl).

You always have the risk of emergency dosing, if the integrity of the water main is threatened. This could potentially be with chloramine, even if normally it isn't used.

Cheers Darrel
 
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