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70L planted - first tank

Some quick updates

One of my new nerites on its back this morning. Sigh! Have righted it. Let's wait and see. Other two deaths and this incident all located by the heater. Not sure if related. Have ordered a heater cover.

Vertical swimming bentosi finally succumbed. Ragged fin bentosi not feeding. Sigh. Everyone else seems voracious, vigorous and looking good.

Have lowered my light closer to the surface, to see if that helps with my floating plants, which still aren't doing so well, particularly the older growth. Siamensis and sessiliflora and anubias all still happy.

Experience with the auto-doser is so-so. Getting some 'pull back' of liquid (about half a ml) over a day. No obvious signs of leakage from connections. Otherwise seems pretty functional.

Have a good day!
 
Hi all,
Some of the salvinia is already turning brown. What is up with me and floating plants!?
What’s your fertiliser regime - how much, how often?
I'd guess it is a nutrient issue as well.

Because it is a floating plant you've taken CO2 and light out of the equation.

I've found that I tend to lose Salvinia "auriculata" group over time in some of the tanks (run very lean), even when Limnobium and Pistia stay healthy. I don't know the reason, but I'm guessing that they have a higher requirement for, at least one, of the macro-nutrients.

cheers Darrel
 
Thanks both. I'm dosing Solufeed 2.1.4 and TEC prepared according to Happi's ratios. I dose 5ml 4x week for macros and 5ml 3 x week for micros. 3ml Fe once a week.

For the past three weeks until this week I've been dosing only 3ml of the macros due to the filter-being-off-for-ten-days issue I had. Back up to 5ml now.

Light is on 12hrs a day.

Will send pics later today all being well.
 
IMG_20230505_172228020~2.jpg

(there's also a tiny bit of limnobium lurking in there - it came in with the salvinia)
 
Hi all,
there's also a tiny bit of limnobium lurking in there - it came in with the salvinia
Right in the middle.

All your floaters look OK, but are <"growing sub-optimally">. I usually pinch the dying leaves off as soon as they pale and have brown tips.
Light is on 12hrs a day.
Are you running it at a low intensity? Your Pistia looks <"a bit "leggy">, which is often a sign of low light intensity.

I'd try upping the light intensity a little and <"see what happens">. If nothing changes? We will know it wasn't PAR.

This is what Nile Cabbage (Pistia stratiotes) looks like when it is <"really enjoying itself">.

pisstr3.0x1800.jpg


cheers Darrel
 
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I’m not familiar with feeding Solufeed, but if @Happi worked out the dose then you should be OK. Was it based on targeting specific values of NO3, or replicating what you were dosing with the TNC complete?
 
Ok, that's good to hear. Feels like keeping floating plants healthy is a litmus test of my basic aquatic plant skills, and I'm currently sub-optimal!

I am actually running at comparatively low intensity (compared to say six months ago) because of previous issue with the siamensis going pink in reaction to too much light. Possibly a pendulum swing reaction and it's been too low an intensity for the past number of months.

I will bring the light closer, but not as close as it was.
 
Do you based on this:

Dear UKAPS Members,

Looks like most of you are looking for an alternative to several premixed fertilizer, which are either no longer available or has become hard to find in the UK. it appear as Solufeed brand has been quite the new trend for some of the members and it certainly looks promising, even better than what Miracle Grow has to offer. I hope to see Solufeed brand here in the USA, but apparently its not available. am looking for a candidates who could test these two products in combination. the goal here is to test it, validate it, modify it, make changes as needed (even though the current recipe/plan should be sufficient and effective). #89

you will need these two products:
Solufeed 2:1:4
Solufeed Sodium Free TEC

these two seems like a good candidate when combined together. Most of you are probably worried about the Urea-N, but this is a much safer candidate compared to NH4-N. most of you might not know this, but most high-end brand use Urea as their main source of Nitrogen, those brands include ADA, Seachem etc.


this approach is much different from traditional EI dosing, such as including Urea and K being bit on the low side. From my perspective 5.3 K is plenty for a weekly dose, we can adjust this if someone really want to add more. This dosing can be used in low or high tech setups just like EI style dosing. It is my advice to maintain lower PH less than 7.0 just to be safe while using a fertilizer that usually contain Urea or NH4. I use to dose Urea in PH above 7.0 water without any issue, but with extra precaution.

The recipe below is based on 50-gallon (189.27 liter) aquarium and you can adjust the dosing to your own tank if needed.

500 ml solution, 20 ml per 50 gallon

Step #1
start with 450 ml Distilled water

Step #2
Add 0.25 gram potassium sorbate and mix till fully
dissolve

Step #3 (Pick one from the list below, White Vinegar is Preferred) and mix till fully dissolve
Add 0.25 gram sodium benzoate
Add 0.5 gram Ascorbic acid
Add 5-10 ml White Vinegar

Step #4
Add 31.545 gram Solufeed 2:1:4 and mix till fully dissolve
Add 5.721 gram
Solufeed Sodium Free TEC and mix till fully dissolve

Step #5
after mixing all the chemicals, add distilled water to reach the 500 ml solution

20 ml per 50 gallon (189.3 Liter) dose will add the following:


N 1 (Urea-N 0.466 ppm, NO3-N 0.54 ppm) this adds about 2.4 ppm NO3, Rest of the N is from Urea
P 0.2
K 1.766
Fe 0.11166
Mn 0.02818
Cu 0.003446
B 0.0125
Zn 0.019
Mo 0.002146
Mg 0.1266

EI style 3x a week dose:

N 3 (1.4 Urea-N, 1.62 NO3-N) this will add 7.18 ppm NO3, Rest of the N from Urea
P 0.6
K 5.3
Fe 0.335
Mn 0.08454
Cu 0.01
B 0.0375
Zn 0.057
Mo 0.006438
Mg 0.38

It would be nice for some of the UKAPS members to give this a trial and report back. I am fully confident that this is a perfect recipe for those who like EI style dosing with their 50% water changes. If anything needs to be changed, we can do that so we could further improve/adjust or modify the recipe without going too much into DIY, as the main goal is to try to keep it simple as possible. Dont let the Urea scare you

This is going to be the standard version, If i feel that we can further modify this, it will be discussed on a separate thread.
If so, how many times are you dosing this per week. Happi suggests 3x per week, it that gives a lot less NO3 than full EI. I’ve found that floating plants consume a lot of NO3.
 
Hi, it's the N1 amount there, yes. Dosing 4x per week. I decided not to go full EI. If I'm upping the light maybe I should up the ferts too but I'd ideally just tweak one variable for now.
 
Hi, it's the N1 amount there, yes. Dosing 4x per week. I decided not to go full EI. If I'm upping the light maybe I should up the ferts too but I'd ideally just tweak one variable for now.
If my sums are correct you’re adding about 9.6 ppm of NO3 per week. I’d suggest that’s insufficient for your floaters. For comparison, I add 30ppm per week.
 
Wow, that's quite a difference. I also have a spider plant with immersed roots, not quite in shot. That's put on about four very long leaves over the past couple of months (maybe a bit less).
 
Wow, that's quite a difference. I also have a spider plant with immersed roots, not quite in shot. That's put on about four very long leaves over the past couple of months (maybe a bit less).
That will also be taking nutrients out of the water, so I’d say you definitely need to up your fertiliser.
 
Not sure you want happy Pistia Stratiotes. They grow pretty big for a 70l....
 
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