• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

Water Changes - How do you do yours?

I think the issue here is the required dose is very small, most of the devices to add things to flowing water are aimed at adding quite considerable amounts of fertiliser/weed killer etc. ie the containers are many litres in size.

If you really want to measure accurately as opposed to just adding "capfuls" get some 5ml syringes from Ebay to dispense Prime or dilute the Prime 10:1 and dose 50ml instead of 5ml from a measuring bottle.
 
ian_m said:
I think the issue here is the required dose is very small, most of the devices to add things to flowing water are aimed at adding quite considerable amounts of fertiliser/weed killer etc. ie the containers are many litres in size
Click to expand...
Sorry, I should have been clearer. I meant to dilute it first before putting it in the feeder.
 
I would of thought you need to keep things simple and therefore less things to go wrong.

- Dose tank with Prime enough for 180litres in your case.
- Add water to tank via hose pipe from mixer tap.

Job done.

Some people put cold water straight into their tank, especially if you only have plants, however when I did this in the winter the tank temp dropped below 15°C and fish were not happy, which is why I went to the heated water butt route.
 
I just run an air pump and heater set to temp for a couple of hours. Then i pump the water in and out via a window cleaning pump.:) saves my rotator in sholder lifting and holding 5 gallon containers at shoulder hight and pouring słów not to mess plants up. I also do this when i clean pipes on filter. I put the inlets pipe off the pump to the filter outlet and draw all the air out.
2epurega.jpg
 
Pumps and water butts seem a waste of time, money and space, unless your tap is unsuitable. Our lass complains enough about things in the house that "SHE" dosent need and i dont have a garage. I change 300l a week and havnt got anywhere to put that much water. I like the idea of restarting filter syphon with a electric pump but i would have to hide it in cabinet as a permanent part of filter plumbing
 
I did note on another post that if you intend to use Seachem Purigen then you cannot use declorinators that have the slime coat protection such as Aquasafe.

I did this and got some more Purigen and switched to Seachem Prime and low and behold the clarity appears to last longer.

I fill up buckets in the kitchen tap mixer adding syringe fills of the appropriate tank measurement of Prime.

Fish seem to be fine.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Not at all, i do not store water, it was all bits i have left from window cleaning. No garage either pump goes in shed containers in a shelf i built in wood shed. 300 l is a lot of water. Id ideały do what someone has done on here and have a constant tricle change hard plumbed tank etc. Id love to build a purpose spot with the dream tank. Ive even thought about plumbing a smallish plastic tank and ballcock in the eaves with plastic push fit trunked in behind tank with a tap on wall hidden.:)
 
ian_m said:
I would of thought you need to keep things simple and therefore less things to go wrong.
- Dose tank with Prime enough for 180litres in your case.
- Add water to tank via hose pipe from mixer tap.
Job done.
.
Click to expand...


This^^
Been doing this method for 2 years,cold & hot water taps used.
I still have the same number of Amano's now that i started with.
 
stu_ said:
This^^
Been doing this method for 2 years,cold & hot water taps used.
I still have the same number of Amano's now that i started with.
Click to expand...
. Do you have a cylinder or boiler? I suppose i could test Some how for cooper levels in our storage tank.:) the method you use sound a simple method.
 
My house is old.
We're still on the old system of boiler in the kitchen, hot water tank in the airing c'board
 
dw1305 said:
Hi all,

This is true, the PIMS (Phosphate Induced Metal Stabilisation) treatment of drinking water means that it won't have any copper or lead in it, details are in this post: <HMA filter | UK Aquatic Plant Society>.

cheers Darrel
Click to expand...

That means this must work then, but i wouldnt like the idea of gunk in cylinder getting into tank
 
Big clown said:
I like the idea of restarting filter syphon with a electric pump but i would have to hide it in cabinet as a permanent part of filter plumbing
Click to expand...

You could just put in a caniser filter outlet and run the pipe into your cabinet and terminate it in a good (i.e. non drip) inline shutoff valve then whatever piping / hoze connector you wanted. So long as the outlet is deeper than water you take out on the water change the shutoff valve should vacuum lock the water in the pipe. Once you open it again it should start automatically.
 
stu_ said:
My house is old. We're still on the old system of boiler in the kitchen, hot water tank in the airing c'board
Click to expand...
Sadly me too. It's why I was trying to avoid using the hot water tap. I also lack a mixer tap. Perhaps I should be spending my money on plumbing instead of a planted tank? :p

I am shortly going to have a go at putting a long lengh of hose pipe coiled into a very hot bath and feed it from the cold tap. See if it can turn it into a large heat exchanger. It'll depend I suppose on the thermal conductivity of the hose, but otherwise it's exactly the same arrangement as a hot water cylinder, only without the copper.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top