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Two faced tank, take 3

LMuhlen

Member
Joined
23 Mar 2022
Messages
504
Location
Brazil
It has been a few months past 2 years, so the second iteration of this tank was undone. Previous journal.

Issues with the previous setup: too much jungle, hard to make maintenance, I didn't trim the anubias and it got out of control, many plants pressed against the glass because of all the stone hardscape, I couldn't grow most plants, the soil quickly spread everywhere out of where wanted it to be, mixing layers and all that, most areas had a very thin soil as a consequence and I couldn't get the plants to stay rooted. The use of polystyrene to add volume became a headache when the roots entangled with it and pulled everything out of place. I think overall the light was too weak, the CO2 level was all over the place.

And once more, too much jungle, the wife didn't like it. (I did and the fishes looked like they did too, but... priorities).

The transition to the new layout was a mess and the house looks like a war zone. But overall things went according to plan and I'm now where I thought I'd be. Like I did during the first rescape, I did a 2-weeks dark start. It worked well the first time, let's see how it goes now. But that means that all the fishes and the plants need to be kept somewhere for 2 weeks. The first time, I did this during "winter" because of vacations, and there was a lot of stress for me and the fishes with the water quickly dropping in temperature while I moved the fishes around. I also kept them in my 90L water change bucket with the canister running, and it was far from ideal, and I couldn't really see anything in there. This time I followed the weather forecasts closely and found this 2 weeks break from a series of cold fronts that were hitting us. I bought a 200L kids swimming pool (one with no inflatable parts) and it worked as a temporary house. Did it work? Yes. Did the fishes like it? Hell no. But I think the biggest issue was that I was so afraid that the fishes would jump, that I kept the level very low. I now see how being at a low level could be perceived as a danger for the fishes, a trigger to swim away to other bodies of water. They were permanently on the edge, darting away and crashing against the pool sides with any movement in their room. On the bright side, no fishes jumped out, not even the hatchetfishes.

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The plants weren't exactly in prime conditions, and their time floating in the pool didn't do them any favor. I gave away 90% of the plants, including almost all the anubias.

Anyways, like I mentioned somewhere, the idea was to make a cleaner layout. I adapted an idea that I saw in a picture once (and never again, as I lost the picture) of having a nice vase inside the tank and have it planted, with the surroundings as bare sand. It was a much smaller tank, it had a single beta in it, but my idea was to replicate it and add a nice eleocharis carpet around the vase. Mostly because I never had one and I wanted the experience. Finding a suitable vase was actually much harder than expected. It needed to be wide, but short, but not too shallow. And somewhat pretty. And affordable. It took me a couple of months searching, from vases, to salad bowls, fruit bowls, handmade, imported... Not a single option worked. Then I moved to sink bowls and that's where I got it! I'd have never guessed, but they were the right size and I just had to search a little to find one that wasn't boring white and/or priced for mansions.

The plan was to have only 2 vases as hardscape. I thought the fishes would miss the jungle, but I'd have to live with it. But then something unusual happened. I discovered that I can't remove my wood piece from the tank, it doesn't fit through the opening in the tank's hood. Long story short, this hood was made completely different from my specifications, but I accepted it because the guy took so long to make it and he was so late to deliver it, that I just didn't have any fight left in me. And it is bolted in a way that I fear that if I remove it, I won't be able to assemble it back into place without messing the current fit. So the wood piece stayed, and that gave me an excuse to keep one of my anubias and I'm sure the fishes will enjoy a place to hide when needed.

So fast forward 2 weeks, this past weekend I removed all the water, planted my assorted emerged grown new plants and the almost dying old plants, a million bits of eleocharis, filled it back up, moved the fishes back and it's done! Of course this single line took over 12h of dedicated work to get done, but I'm sure most are familiar with this kind of thing.

In the mean time, I changed the lights, their positions, moved away from the Finnex fixtures (I will use them again when I make a smaller tank) and kept the 2 50W 5000K industrial fixtures and the 2 35W Chinese indoor growth blurple fixtures. Right now the white fixtures are "dimmed" with black tape to ~60% light. I built, tested, fixed, tested, fixed (many times) my DIY horizontal reactor. The conclusion is that I suck at DIY. In the end, it is still leaking, but instead of trying to fix it, I'll just collect the water and pump it back into the tank. It is roughly a drop per minute, half a cup per day. I like this reactor concept, but time will tell if it works for me.

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First impressions are that I got carried away and bought too many plants for the very limited space I got to grow them in, using the vases. But this is a good thing. If I can't control myself, the limited room will. And I'm sure some plants won't adapt, so it will be a survival of the fittest kind of situation. And if they all grow? I'll figure something out. Another first impression is that I have way more fishes than I thought. It shouldn't be a surprise, but it was much harder to see the fishes in the jungle. I had been thinking of what new fishes I would add to the layout, but now I think I'll just keep the ones already there. Oh, I sold 2 of the 4 L075 plecos. I figured that the new layout wasn't very pleco friendly.

I mentioned in the previous journal that every now and then I would find some sterbai cory babies. When I searched the tank I thought that I had maybe 15 cories, so considering the jungle factor that was probably ~20 cories. This experience allowed me to get a precise figure of 43 cories. And now, without the jungle, they look like a 43 cories shoal. And it got me thinking... who in their right mind tries to grow a dense eleocharis carpet with 43 cories?

Oh, and as a final note, the wife said it looks much better than before. So mission accomplished.
 
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I'm excited to see photos! Hope the fish all settled in well 🙂
 
Writing on the PC and having the pics on the phone, it takes some time and a few edits to get it all in the post hehe
 
It has been a couple of weeks.

During this time, I had a very hard time keeping the plants rooted. The blue acaras were intentionally pulling them out on a daily basis. It was really frustrating. As it happens, two days ago they laid a new batch of eggs, so I'm hoping that they will calm down now. In fact, I haven't had to replant anything since then. It was a big surprise for me, though, because they laid eggs 2 days before the big disassemble, which added a new layer of stress to the procedures. I was actually expecting to breed them again, so I wanted to make it work. The parents spent the next 2 weeks in the improvised swimming pool, stressed to the limit, in constant fear of any movement in the house, barely eating, and then 2 weeks in the new tank, and voilà... breeding again. Only 4 weeks in between, including 2 very uncomfortable ones.

I managed to keep 10 babies alive and now I'm not sure how to proceed, because I only have one extra tank and I think the 1 month old babies are now big enough to eat the new born ones that should be ready to collect in less than a week. I'm considering moving the older ones to my blackwater tank, but then it will be a pita to get them out...

As expected, the 43 cories are raising hell on my eleocharis carpet attempt. I now have maybe 1/3 of the initial eleocharis and most of them have already been replanted many times. But they are growing new leaves and spreading a bit, so I'm hoping that they will soon be better rooted and eventually they will be dense enough to keep themselves in place. That is, if they last that long.

With all the uprooting, some plants evolved really well, others only a bit and some are basically unchanged and still completely in emersed form. I'm hoping to start to trim the emersed bits of the better plants soon.

There is a small presence of diatoms evenly spread on most plants, especially on the old emersed bits. With the already yellowy lights, it makes the tank look very autumnal.

I got a school of Inpaichthys kerri (royal tetra). I had never seen them before, but they are supposedly adapted to slightly warmer water, so I think they will do well. I liked that the name Inpaichthys is an homage to INPA (national institute for amazonic research), because they were first identified near one of their posts. Dr. Kerr was a director there, or something. As things stabilize, I want to thicken my shoals with more rummy noses, hatchetfish and pencilfish.
 
This tank has been an exercise in handling frustration. I'm hopeful, though, that the future shines brighter (although I may reduce the light...)

After I moved the blue acara couple to their own tank, my issues with plants being dug out reduced drastically, to normal levels. The couple looks happy in their own tank, but no spawning yet.

The plants overall are not looking good. And the algae are having a feast. Trying to look at the bright side, I marveled in how so many different algae managed to coexist in the tank, none of them getting the upper hand on the others, a very leveled battle. It is unfortunate, however, that in these last few days it seems that a winner crawled from the bottom to claim their spot in the light. It seems like at long last the ruler of all will be a cyano. But a weird and unpleasant black cyano that doesn't form the usual thin films and instead engulfs the leaves in a black goo of dread. Doesn't smell as bad as regular cyano, though. Who knows...

Just before the cyanos took over, I decided that I would give up on having a low and leveled CO2 injection. I don't have the skills to pull it out, it seems, at least not in this setup. And I'm done experimenting and pushing my limits. If CO2 is a crutch, I want the whole electric cart. It took a while, but at some point I managed to upgrade my DIY horizontal reactor. In the process, I discovered a key building flaw in it and it became clear that it was underperforming severely, even considering my low CO2 aim. So I was hopeful that having fixed that AND increasing the size of the reactor, I would get things back on track. The drop checker went from a dark teal (I often wondered if that thing was even working) to a bright yellow. The fishes didn't seem to mind, so it was a win. All until 3 days later the cylinder ran dry. I don't think there was a leak, only bad luck... the last refill was in March, so it was really time to have it refilled. But of course it happened Friday and I had to wait until today to get it filled, and that means that the tank will have stayed 4 days without CO2, just 3 days after a big concentration increase. Stability who?

The day after I fixed the reactor, I spent the day away and returned to find the tank half empty, the living room flooded and the CO2 tubing burst open. Anyone's first thought would be that I messed with it too much during the upgrade and wore it down, but I didn't touch it at all, it was maybe the only part that didn't get any attention. It was just some karma payback that it would burst just when I thought I got things working again. In the end, it costed me my circulation pump that burned down. I had another one to replace it, but it is a little stronger.

The black cyanos rise to conquest really took place this week when the CO2 was new, the circulation was stronger and the plants should be recovering. To my surprise, a big blorb of cyanos grew overnight on the substrate sand on the far side of the tank, where the water current hits the side glass and goes directly down. I expected cyanos to like calmer water, so I'm not sure if it was the CO2 or the extra flow rate that gave it a push. The sand is inert and pretty clean on that region. My optimist side says that the extra CO2 made the plants so happy that all the other algae took a hit, that's why the cyanos rose to power. Yes, it was a good thing. It means all the other 547 types of algae started dying.

I have a lot more to complain about, but it will have to continue later. In conclusion, so far, I'm tempted to just blast the cyanos away with antibiotics. Since the CO2 ended, I drastically reduced the light to try to make up for it. maybe that will hurt the cyanos a bit. I'll give the tank one week of proper CO2 and lights and then decide if I go with antibiotics or not.

On the next chapter, which plants are doing better, which ones are already gone? And the mystery of the disapearing fishes.
 
CO2 is back in, after 4 days. I noticed that I had a small 5cm length of the old tubing still installed, between the bubble counter and a push-in connector. So I quickly decided to replace it, before it cracks like the rest and floods the room again. As it happens, while I was holding the tubing closed with one hand and cursing that I didn't add a one-way valve to hold the water, and using the other hand to push the new tubing into the tight fit of the bubble counter outlet, I cracked the bubble counter in two... Good thing that the needle valve outlet fitting works for tubing as well, or I would be in a really bad place. And then I proceeded to regulating the gas flow through the reactor without a bubble counter. Fun times.

Now, back on track, a plants list, and a lenghty description of their evolution (or lack of).

The original idea was to have an eleocharis carpet, and I bought what the local market calls Eleocharis minima. It was showing promising growth and very short new leaves, only 2cm tall (although maybe it would grow larger if it had time), but the army of corys was driven and determined to pull out every single one of them. For maybe a month I fought back, replanting them as I could, hoping that they would eventually root better. But it was in vain. The age of eleocharis came to a short end. I planted trial versions of the plants I had around the tank and, even though they held better, they didn't grow healthy, always getting covered in algae. Monte Carlo, Ranunculus papulentus, Hydrocotyle tripartita. The hydrocotyle is growing better than the others, but not what I wanted for a carpet, so I'm keeping it trimmed in a nice contained ball in a corner. Upon giving up on the plants I had, I bought glossostigma as a desperated attempt and to my surprise it is going really well! It is maybe the only plant that has new growth clear of algae and it is spreading surprisingly fast. And compact. The leaves barelly ouside of the substrate. Now, knowing that my CO2 was probably VERY low, maybe that was the issue with the Monte Carlo, but from memory, I had this notion that glossostigma was also demanding regarding CO2. Maybe decades ago low CO2 was considered high CO2... I'm hoping that the other carpets will also do fine now that CO2 is back on track. Maybe when there is a carpet in place, I can add eleocharis in it to keep it protected? Or maybe mixing plants will be a nightmare.

On the dark side of the tank, in the vary back where the wood piece is, I have very large anubia coffefolias, some mini anubias, some buces and some moss. The coffefolias are doing OK, maybe even better than they were in the previous setup. But the buces and the mini anubias are a mess and I can't keep the moss in place, it doesn't adhere to the wood at all and keeps being pulled by the wave maker.

In the large vase I started with a collection of tall stems and some short plants around the edge. H. tripartita is growing well, but old growth is slowly getting covered with algae. I trim the bush every now and then. Blyxa has stopped in time. Doesn't grow, doesn't get algae. Althernanthera mini is ugly, it grows but in awful shape. I've never been able to get a pretty althernantera, but the fight goes on. Althernanthera not-mini is almost dead and got engulfed by the faster stems. I moved it to the other vase, but not promising. Staurogyne started badly, original growth got covered in black, but new growth is looking really good. Slow growth, though. It got hit hard by this wave of black cyanos, this weeked I gave it a fierce clean. It is one of the promising ones. Bacopa monniieri and ammania bonsai are growing OK, but getting some green string algae on the older leaves, and now black cyanos as well. Also got a good rinse this weekend. The A. bonsai got some side shoots that I replanted, and already got it trimmed a bit. The B. monnieri is growing fast enough and got a few trims so far. Proserpinaca palustris did what it always does with me, grows some adapted leaves very quickly, then stops completely and slowly rots from the bottom up. It is the only plant declared extinct from the tank so far. Pogostemon deccanensis wasn't growing at all and before it died completelly, I moved it to the other vase when it got covered by the faster stems. It now has some 3cm of decent looking new growth, but it is so low, I consider it to be frozen in time. I have a Myriophyllum that came as a freebie with the other plants, don't remember the exact name, it is growing very fast and gets trimmed every 2 weeks (and is the reason why other plants get shaded). But the leaves quickly get covered with green stringy algae. Rotala sp. “Vietnan” also grows fast, same thing as the Myriophyllum. It is now getting attacked by the black cyanos, though. A friend gave me a rotala he says is H'ra. I'm not so sure, but it is now growing well, although it took some time before it started growing. Rotalas seem to like my water, overall. There is an Echinodorus parviflorus in there as well, it doesn't get as much light because of the tall stems next to it, so I thought it would grow well and algae free, but it is looking terrible. Absolute mess. Good thing that it is somewhat hidden so it doesn't ruin my day everytime that I look at the tank. It put out a flower stem that gave me a new plantlet. This weekend I finally cut it lose and added it to the blue acara tank. It lasted 2 days before being pulled out, it is currently floating haha. The mother plant is not dead and I think it will start growing well at some point, but all the current leaves will have to be removed when it gets something healthy growing. Finally, some assorted cryptos. They were the favorite target of the blue acara couple, so they used to spend more time swimming than rooted. Now that they have some piece, they are growing really well and among the most algae resisting plants.

Finally, onto the smaller vase, I have Nesaea pedicellata and Hygrophila araguaia looking terrible, but still constantly growing. They were maybe a bold choice, but when I started this setup I was expecting great results for this tank. If the new CO2 boost doesn't change their shape, they will be removed. They were the first plants to get attacked by the black cyanos (and many other algae before that). Lobelia cardinalis “Small Form" is growing well, now that they are finally left alone to grow without being pulled out. Still, the algae are hitting it like everything else. Ranunculus papulentus is looking worse and worse, each new leaf smaller than the last, it will probably die completelly at some point. Monte Carlo spread well, but got completelly covered in algae. Some parts grew pretty large leaves, others grew ugly small ones, and now they are all back and terrible. CO2 will fix it! I got some Cryptocoryne cordata “Blassii”, it now looks the same as all my cryptos... Sometimes I think that this farm only grows one species and sells it with different names. Finally, my Echinodorus aflame plantlet is still a plantlet... It is in a delicate balance with slow growth of short leaves, otherwise healthy looking, but with algae creeping in. It can go either way at this point.

And I think that was an exhaustive list of what's in there. Exhaustive in more than one sense. Oh oh, frogbits! Yeah, I added one of them, and now, months later, they are 2. Very curious as to why it is not growing like it used to. It looks green enough, but something odd is happening there. Yesterday I grabbed a handful of it from my other tank and added to this one. Let's see what happens.

Next chapter, fishes, and how they vanish in thin water.
 
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Finally, the last chapter in this triple post for venting my frustrations, the fishes!

Since forever, I've had my shoals slowly decreasing in numbers, but almost never finding any bodies. Since the previous layout was a thick jungle, I thought it was to be expected that the fishes would sometimes die in secrecy and be eaten/decomposed before I could notice it, at least the smaller fishes. With the new layout, I thought that I would more reliably locate the eventual dead fish. As it happens, this mystery only got worse. I first noticed something weird soon after the fishes went back into the tank. One male black phantom tetra developed some disease and was visibly dying. For a few days, I followed closely to see if it would get better or if I should remove the body. Then one day it disappeared. I looked everywhere and no body was found. At some point, I decided to try a new species and bought 10 Inpaichtys. I had an issue with my quarantine and added them straight into the main tank. Slowly bu surely, the little inpas went missing one by one even though they all looked very smart. It was very frustrating. When I thought it would be the end for them, 4 remained, and they lived happily for almost 2 months, until last week. Whatever was happening stopped. I even considered getting more of them, but decided to wait. Last week, during the CO2 shenanigans, as a consequence of all the changes, I was checking the cabinet many times a day, and one day I found 2 inpas dead in there. The net that covers the only side of the tank that isn't protected by the hood had loosened a bit in one corner and formed a small opening. And with my luck, that was enough for not only one, but two happy inpas to jump for their death in less than 12h. I honestly find it hard o believe, but they were there. I have no idea how people keep tanks with an open top. Now I have 2 impas...

A after the inpas stopped disappearing, I decided it was time to thicken some of the shoals, so I got a bunch of rummy nose tetras and hatchetfishes. They were kept in quarantine for 10 days. At some point, I was about to be away from home for 5 days and moved the fishes to the main tank, where I have an auto feeder. All looked well. When I came back, 12 rummy noses had disappeared, no bodies in sight. The hatchetfishes were still there. Today I noticed most of the hatchetfishes are gone too...

Too many deaths, no bodies, the evidence is overwhelming. As much as I didn't want to believe it, it must be the blue acaras eating them. I never see them showing the least bit of interest in other fishes, and with the main couple moved into the other tank I only have 1 large adult and 3 juveniles in this tank, but I don't see any other possibility. I thought at some point that the inpas were small enough to be eaten. Maybe once they grew a bit they crossed a threshold and that is why the last 4 survived. But the rummynoses are much larger than the inpas. The hatchets are thin but also large. The black phantom was also large enough that it couldn't be swallowed whole. I'm honestly at a loss. Also, why do the eating stops? I have 8 rummynoses in the tank still, and they've been there for a long time. There is even a small pencilfish, a lone survivor from the previous layout... It is as if the perpetrator only goes after recently added fishes. And possibly only at night, I never see anything suspicious, ever.

But as much as it furstrates me, I'm done adding small shoalers. I won't get rid of the blue acaras any time soon, so my plan is to go for larger fishes. Maybe a barb, or a larger tetra. Melanotaenias? And the train of broken shoals remains in the tank as a living memory of all the fishes that were bought and lost over these years. I have 2 serpaes, 1 pencilfish, 2 black phantoms, 1 red devil, the 2 inpas, 8 rummy noses and 7 hatchets. All of them started as large shoals. And now they will have only each other as company unless I change something in the future.

On a completelly different note, a couple of weeks ago I lost 2 garra flavatras. They died less than 24h apart. These bodies were easily found and removed. No idea what happened, but the remaining 2 garras look well enough. It was particularly sad because the garras were with me for a long time and I have never had any issues with them. And to lose 2 at the same time, very odd as well.

The Blue Acaras are really rare to find around here. Because of some weird comercial agreement between amazon countries, we can't import any fishes from non-brazilian parts of the amazon forest. Even if they are bred abroad and possibly hibridized and have nothing to do with the wild caught fishes. If they carry the same latin name, they can't be imported. Before I understood this, I looked everywhere for importers who would bring them, with no success. Local websites describe them as being very peaceful and compatible with comunity tanks and planted tanks. Somehow someone managed to import them (and I was told that the importer got themselves into a mess because of it), that's how I got mine, but it probably won't happen again any time soon.

But I'm now questioning all this alledged compatibility with planted tanks and community tanks. OK, they only started wrecking my plants once they formed a couple. But now the evidence points to them as being massive fish eaters. If not them, then who? Is the cories army possessed by an angry deity? Is my lonely ghost shrimp eating multiple fishes as large as it is? Are the 2 sabajii plecos out for fresh blood? Is someone breaking into my house and stealing my fishes?


Whatever the answer is, I won't buy any more fishes until the mess with the plants is solved. And then I'll probably look into new and larger species.

And now, with all of that out of my chest, I rest and wait for time to bring back serenity.
 
During this last water change, I took some pics, not that the tank is very presentable at the moment.

For the better or for the worse, things evolved. Black cyanos approached what I considered to be a point of no return after a week of more intense combat, so after a particularly meticulous attempt to siphon it off, which was still somewhat ineffective given that it adheres pretty well to plants for a cyano, I decided to use antibiotics. Erythromycin isn't available around here anymore, maybe because of issues with resistant bacteria, maybe because of commercial reasons, but the natural successor is azithromycin. It was surprisingly hard to find recommendations online for the dosage, so I went with 2 doses of 1.5mg/L. I was expecting near immediate results, based on what I remember happening a while ago when I did this for regular cyano cyanos on a shrimp tank, but it took 2 to 3 days to start seeing any change. Alas, they are gone. Partially. There is some dead mass still stuck to some plants, like the Monte Carlo, but I've been siphoning some flakey stuff from the substrate that I think is dead cyanos that gets unstuck. I'm doing 2 water changes weekly, 50% each, since then. Water was very milky at first, now it is getting better.

Naturally, other algae are being quick to replace it, but it is definitively an improvement. The plants look healthier and the algae are less aggressive.

I removed most of the pedicellata, it was growing tall and terrible. Now with less algae, more CO2 and overall more tank maintenance, they have a final chance to regrow in a sufficiently healthy form. Otherwise, it is gone for good. I still have some emersed stems that I may try to introduce again when things get more stable. Overall, I'm balancing trimming the faster plants to keep a good plant mass going, but also to prevent shadowing and issues with flow.

The glossostigma is still going surprisingly well, considering how all the other plants are struggling. I've seen noticeable improvements on the blyxa, H. tripartita and Pogostemon deccanensis.

From the fish side of things, I'm now at peace with the fact that the blue acaras are not compatible with small tetras. Even if the disappearance patterns are odd and leaving me with many questions, I'm moving on as well as I can. The rummy noses are on their way to extinction. But it is impossible to remove them. When I disassembled the previous layout, they were the last ones to be fished, and only when I removed all the water. In fact, I picked them with my hands when they were on nearly dry land. I did manage to fish the last two inpas and moved them to my blackwater tank. Funny how they changed from being the absolute smallest fishes in the main tank, to being the largest on the new one. They look very large when near the green neons and the tucanos. Not what I wanted for that tank, but whatever.

Now I have a new plan for this tank! I will go with gouramis. They don't get a lot of love around here, I think that they became too bread and butter for the more hype aquarists, but they are still pretty and large/peaceful enough to live with the blue acaras. Or so I hope. I also think that they will be more enjoyed by my daughter, she didn't really care for small tetras, not enough personality. My current plan is to get maybe 4 Tricogaster leeri and to choose one smaller species; around here they still go by the name Colisa. Current list of preference is samurai > chuna > lalia. But ultimately I'll pick what I can find at the LFS. I've never seen samurai live, only in import lists. Also, comments are that colisas are so hybridized nowadays and that there are so many commercial names, that it may be impossible to pick the actual species at a regular fish store.

Hardware notes:
I'm surprised at how well I'm being able to keep the temperature from rising during this summer. It is set at 25ºC and usually won't go beyond 26ºC. In the previous setup it would often get to 29ºC. The biggest change was that I drilled a hole in the hood and positioned the fan there, so that it blows fresh air into the hood. On the previous setup, I think it was mostly recirculating the already damp air and not being able to renew it.

I'm having a lot of issues with the filter intake getting clogged. It's too much algae/dead leaves and the intake is way too small. When it gets clogged, the surface skimmer starts pulling air bubbles, and they make a lot of noise in the filter. And now, with the CO2 reactor set inline, all the air going into it makes it less efficient. I tried adding a block of black foam, but it was worse somehow, it clogged even faster. I'm cleaning the inlet daily. When I had to go away for a few days, I just removed the surface skimmer and plugged it, to prevent air from going in. Now that the cyanos are gone, and with the plants being healthier with more CO2, I noticed that this scenario improved, but it still isn't ideal.

I only cleaned the glass on one side for these pics 🫣
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Top pictures were taken during water change, 50% empty.
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It's a slow day at work, so I thought I'd register my current dosing regime. Mostly so that I don't forget it, as I'm changing it soon.

Using KNO3, urea, KH2PO4 and MgSO4.7H2O. Urea is dosed 4 times a day with the dosing pump.
N: 2.5 ppm (roughly 70% from urea)
K: 2.5 ppm
PO4: 1.0 ppm
Mg: 7.0 ppm

Micros come from commercial products, I use a micros bottle and an iron bottle. No info on chelation, but my best guess is that the iron is gluconate.
Iron is dosed every 2 days with the dosing pump. Micros every 4 days. Average weekly dose is 0,24ppm Fe total. The micro mix is as follow, for the current dose (in ppm)

Mg0,039375
Mn0,09625
K0,035
B0,000875
Cu0,000875
Fe0,00875
Mo0,004375
Zn0,0875

It's a weird proportion, I'm considering changing brands when it ends. But it never ends.

I'm planning a change for my macro mix. When things go wrong, we question everything, and my cheap alternatives make me uneasy. My KNO3 comes from an unknown seller from an eBay equivalent. KNO3 is a controlled substance, so there was no other way to get my hands on it. My other salts come from lab suppliers, much more trustworthy. I was dosing very little K, and it got me thinking that if my KNO3 isn't actually KNO3, or if it is diluted somehow, then I'd be dosing even less K.

So going forward I'm going to use Mg(NO3)2.H2O, K2SO4, urea, KH2PO4 and MgSO4.7H2O. I'm also changing the proportions of urea and NO3 back to weighting more on the NO3 side. It got pushed heavily into urea when I was reducing the K dose. And while I'm at it, I decided to increase K and PO4 a bit.

I haven't dosed Ca because my tap water comes with some GH (usually I measure 3 dGH), which I assume is mostly Ca, so 21.5ppm. But I managed to get an answer from the water distributor, who told me that they make measurements for NO3 and hardness (only those 2 out of all the questions I asked). NO3 is between 1 and 2 ppm, so nothing to worry about. Hardness (which I'm not sure what they mean by it, KH or GH?) is supposedly 40ppm CaCO3. Now then, I decided to consider that it is in fact a GH measurement, and that it is probably mostly Ca, so that should give me 16ppm Ca. With the reduction in the Ca estimation, I'll also reduce Mg to keep the 1/3 proportion, whatever its worth.

So the new macros will be:
N: 2.5 ppm (40% from urea)
K: 4.0 ppm
PO4: 1.5 ppm
Mg: 5.3 ppm
 
A quick update. New fishes brought ich. The blue acaras are noticeably distressed, even though there are very few white spots. I actually only noticed the ich spots when looking for what was wrong with the acaras, which were acting weird. I'm not sure how to address this. Medicating the tank seems like a bad idea with all the cories and gouramis. The most used ich medication around here contains malachite green (apparently not good for sensitive fishes) and copper sulphate (looks like it is not to be used in acidic waters, creates toxic molecules). Salt also seems to be not an option with the cories and plecos. I could turn up the temperature, it would be the best time of the year for this, it's been actually hard to keep it down. But how effective would it be? I've had different results in the past.

My plan right now is to move the 4 acaras to a spare tank and medicate them there. This won't heal the tank, but it will hopefully resolve the most urgent matter.

And yes, I did knowingly skip quarantining the gouramis. My spare tank is full of cyanos, even though it has no light, only inert substrate and a filter, and it's been running for years non-stop. I didn't want to face this monster, considered that the fishes had been in the LFS for a good few weeks and looked fine, and decided to risk it. Now I'll have to clean the spare tank to use as a hospital...

On other news, I had issues with my DIY CO2 reactor, it fell apart. I had to rebuild it to its original smaller size, in emergency mode, but made it a bit more robust now. I'm thinking that I'll need to re-increase it when I get the chance.

Oh, and my magnesium nitrate didn't arrive. I may have been scammed.
 
After a few turbulent weeks, this setup is bound to see some stability, finally. For better or worse, things have returned to normal.

After a very long time, my magnesium nitrate was delivered last week, so I managed to mix my new macros recipe without the KNO3 that I came to distrust. As I was waiting for the salt to arrive and my previous macro batch ended, I spent some 3 weeks dosing the tank directly with dry salts... Not fun.

After the CO2 reactor fell apart, I managed to rebuild it in its previous smaller design and it came out considerably more robust than before. I guess I did learn some DIY skills with all these comings and goings with what was supposed to be a very simple reactor design. I've been getting much more stable CO2 levels since then, although I've had a few hiccups when the needle valve decided to stop cooperating.

The ich thing was a fiasco. I moved the blue acaras to a hospital tank, after removing most of the cyanos from it, and treated them with ich medication and 2g/L of salt. I was worried that they could become more aggressive in such a small tank, but it was the opposite, they became apathetic, sad even. After a week or so, most signs of ich were gone, but I couldn't return the fishes to the main tank, where it was still raging on. The acaras stopped eating and were very skittish. The main tank, on the other hand, I "treated" with just increased temperature. It was a disaster, but the silver lining was that with all the awful heat waves we've been having, I almost got to 30ºC by just turning off the cooler. In the end, I think that the increased temperature did more harm than good, all the hatchet fishes died within 2 days of the temperature increase. Eventually, all the tetras died. I was worried about having left overs from the schools of tetras I once had, and now that is gone. All the other fishes survived. When it was all over, I decresed the temperature over 3 days and returned the acaras. Hopefully, that's the end of this story. Only minutes after returning to the main tank, the acaras were already behaving normally and within a few hours they started eating again.

On the algae front, just like magic, suddenly things became much better. I reduced the light levels by an unkown amount by covering the spotlights with a single sheet of kitchen paper towel 😱 and suddenly the tank looks much better! I'm having a hard time believing how the combined colors of the covered spotlights and the indoor grow lights have suddenly become very satisfying. Looks professional, even! Also, the water became absolutelly clear, giving that empty tank illusion that hasn't happened in a long time. Even the pictures capture it. Of course, there is still algae on the plants, but it is so much manageable now, I'm filled with hopes for this setup now. Now I just need the plants to start growing healthier. Some already started, and I've been slowly getting to remove old damage growth without fearing that I'll kill the plant. I'm dreaming of a day when I get to just mow the entire tank and see pretty plants grow back with no ugly old growth.

I was surprised to see how some algae covered leaves simply cleaned up by themselves, some buces that looked too far gone are now completelly clear. Of course, the leaves don't look too good, but at least there are no algae on them.

I've been using salicilic acid, I wonder if it is responsible for this improvement. The turning point was on week 3 of the treatment.

After so many crysis, I'm now starting to get to worry about the layout again. I think I'll just remove the plants that haven't pulled through, try some different ones. The glossos are growing so fast, but my intention was to use eleocharis... It is not giving the effect that I expected for this vases design. Anyways, sounds like a luxury to get to worry about it.

Firstly, a homage to this little great warrior. It is a true survivor. It has been with me for a few years, and sadly has been alone for a good while now. It managed to not get eaten, somehow, and now survived the ich and temperature disaster. There is also a serpae survivor, who is the oldest fish in there, had him since 2019. Also an otto from that time, but I can't tell for sure because I have bought ottos at a later time as well.
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And random tank shots from the day I noticed how clear the water was and just had to take pictures (even though there was a stem floating in there).
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