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Swamp Creek - 2 years on updated June 2012

Re: Swamp Creek - updated 10/2010

Ray said:
Keep going with the updates, I love these warts and all journals, and this scape has potential now the growing pains are over. What happened to the Vortech, ditched for spraybars? I was wondering if it ran silently as it is a very desirable piece of kit on paper. Thanks.

Garuf said:
Any updates? I'd be really keen to see how it's looking at the moment.


Garuf and Ray thanks for prompting me to update! Worklife gets in the way of the important things in life like aquascapes. Ray the Vortech runs really quiet even at high speed which it only does while the lights are on.

I recently had my folks visit the UK for a few weeks and had to leave my other half in charge of Swamp Creek. She did a good job but when I got back I found the flow through the spray bars was reduced due to a poor connection in the tubing in the tank.

Ray the growing pains are still present it's just hurting in different places! I'm stil enjoying the scape but I am struggling to nail the variables that might be causing me problems.

1. I have a long standing problem with a film that develops on the surface of the water over a week.

2. I have had a major melt of my cyrpts - I've even lost some some completely. The new leaves grow well then suddenly melt.

3. I have algae, I'm managing it but it's not gone. It's a black hair like algae on the margins of leaves.

4. I've lost some inverts - not sure why but may be associated with the use of easycabo.

5. A single stem of my pogostemon stellatus has started to grow in a spiral. Recently it appears the same stem has straightened out.

So I've done a few things to try solve these problems, the changes took place about two weeks ago and I think they are making a difference.

1. I've reduced my lights from 100% to 70%. This gives me a PAR reading of about 25 at the substrate level. I reduced the photoperiod to 7hrs from 9hrs.

2. I've increased my water changes to 50% twice a week.

3. I've replaced 30% of the siporax in my filter.

4. I remove all algae infected plants every week.

5. I have removed my spray bars which I realise are a useful tool to improve flow, however my problems started when I switched to spray bars (and increased lights so there are other factors...) I replaced the spray bars with a Lilly pipe and I installed the vortech mp10 which had been removed when the spray bars were installed. I have better flow now although the back right corner is a bit of a dead spot either way.

So the other things which remain constant are a CO2 at a rate of 10 - 15 bubbles per sec, 700 lph eheim (rated at about 1500 lph), EI dosing of ferts, easycarbo approx. twice a week.

I thought it would be easier than this to be honest and the scape is stalled as I try get the crypts to grow.

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Here is the twisted pogostemon
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Re: Re: Swamp Creek - updated 10/2010

So I've been quite frustrated lately. I have some stag horn algae and and some spirogyra. The spirogyra seems to be on the increase and I've decided to do a 3 day blackout. Not much else to say really.

I think I've covered the other aspects, lights have been reduced, increased ferts, minimising fluctautions in co2; improved flow..
 
Re: Re: Swamp Creek - updated 10/2010

I've never seen anything like it on that distortion! Spirogyra can be a real pig to shift, good luck! Have you read jamesc's plantedtank guide? That has the best, algae guides.
 
Re: Swamp Creek - updated 10/2010

Ok so I've just finished a 3 day blackout. I can see how this has affected some BBA on the marselia and there is definitely less spirogyra around but it is still present. BBA present but looks white in places

Just to recap.

1. I have cleaned my filter
2. I dose the top end of EI as recommended by Jame's excellent website. i.e. for 180l - 1/2 tsp KNO3, 1/8 KPO4 and 1/8 trace alternating.
3. I do a 50% (at least) water change every week
4. I have reduced my lighting so that the substrate plants receive approx 25 PAR (recommended that substrate gets 30 PAR -Tom Barr). lighting period is 7 hours
5. I have a vortech 10 powerehead and its turned up enough to create a good flow (most areas of the tank have plants swaying in the breeze)
6. My filter delivers 700lph (1700lph rated)
7. CO2 is FE and yellow (approx 5 - 10 drops per sec)

So the advice I'm looking for is

1. Is their any mileage in increasing my ferts above the recommended level? (with spirogyra probably not!)
2. Can I dose Easycarbo at 10mls daily? 180l tank. I have fissedens in the tank and some shrimp.
3. When you blackout do you need to change the water every day for 3 days? Squiggley says no, others imply you need to. Do you keep dosing ferts through the blackout?
4. Do I keep alternating between 3 days normal and then 3 days blackout until the spirogyra is clear.

These pictures were all taken a moment ago on my phone so they are not ideal photos but you can see where I am at the moment :bored: [Malcolm and Isabel are keen aquascapers and never far from me when I'm tweaking the setup]

I've lost all my crypts along the back of tank! Have increased flow though and trying to keep co2 stable.

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Re: Re: Swamp Creek - updated 10/2010

Time to cut those infected leaves, and perform a water change, ensure the filters are also maintained on a regular basis, easy carbo will help if you are short on CO2, flow might be an issue even with the extra powerhead, on my rio 125 I have a 1500lph rated filter, a koralia nano 900lph and a Koralia 1 rated 1500lph and I still think that is not enough flow lol

If the nutrients and CO2 do not reach the plants they will start to deteriorate and get covered in algae, ensure you CO2 is up to scratch also which is the cause of algae in most peoples tanks, too much light and not enough CO2 to cope with it.

Tank is looking good though :)
 
Re: Swamp Creek - updated 12/2010

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Right so I've made a few changes in the past 8 weeks. I tried to get rid of the spirogyra, BBA. A few blackouts later and on its return I decided to get rid of some of the marselia it was growing in, next thing I knew I'd removed all the marselia.

I turned down my lights but also lowered them closer to the tank. I measured the PAR values at the substrate which were in the region of 20 - 40 depending on where I measured. (2x point light sources so I get some overlap)

With the light intensity reduced I introduced Hygrophila pinnatifida, hygrophila difformis and ceratopteris thalictroides, Crypt balansae, crypt wendtii mi oya, crypt wendtii green. I also tried to grow glossostigma as a carpet plant but it would only grow vertically.

I noticed that the surface film I'd been having a problem with stopped. I made the mistake of messing with my filter doing a partial clean and ended up introducing a load of muck into the tank when I switched it on.

The following week the algae seemed to make its return - not surprising given my balls up with the filter.

I realise that with BBA its likely my flow is not adequate despite the movement I see in all my plants. So I decided to go back to Clives advice months ago to use a spray bar. I made one this time out of acrylic tubes. Version 1 is installed and as soon as I get the gear sorted I'll have a wider diameter outlet v2. I have an external 1800lph thats probably producing something like 600lph. I have a vortech mp10 but decided to switch that off tonight as I think its interfering with the back to front flow pattern in the tank.

Today I removed the glosso and planted some crypt wendtii tropica, staurogyne and hair grass.

I have a bad feeling that I'm going to get some serious BBA in the hair grass.

I have stopped EI dosing and am adding TPN+ 10mls once daily for 7 days a week, 10mls easycarbo once daily and 5 pumps of some brighty K I have hanging around. 50% water change weekly. FE CO2 - 5 to 10 drops per sec, sera inline diffuser, solenoid on 4 hrs before lights up, drop checker lime green to yellow.

I just can't seem to rid myself of this BBA!
 
Re: Swamp Creek - updated 12/2010

tyrophagus said:
I just can't seem to rid myself of this BBA!

sounds like a case of too much light intensity mate.

It looks quit mildly planted, so limiting the light would be were i'd start.

At least 2 x 50% weekly W/C would do some good to.
 
Re: Swamp Creek - updated 12/2010

foxfish said:
You have had a hard time with your tank mate!
Lets hope your new regime works out - how is the cat?

Cats OK. He still needs feeding via his stomach tube but he's eating more by mouth so theres still hope. He does have trouble keeping his weight up. A happy cat in all respects though so worth trying to get him better.
 
Re: Swamp Creek - updated 12/2010

Today I added another external filter which is rated 650lph. I manufactured the acrylic spray bar version 2 and installed that on my main eheim rated 1700lph. It runs across the back of the tank and has an internal diameter of 20mm. The previous version was quite narrow and that restricted flow.

The 650lph spraybar is at the bottom of the tank at the back and it sprays vertically up the back wall in the right half of the tank as you look at it. This area has been difficult to get flow into as the hardscape blocks flow.

I'll see if I can post a diagram. The flow in the tank looks really good, better than ever and I hope it sorts out my problems with BBA.
 
Re: Swamp Creek - updated 12/2010

So I thought I'd post about how I made my spraybar. Nothing new if you search the forum except for the bending spring I used which I found recommended on another forum.

My first spray bar was to narrow. I'm not sure about the physics but if the spray bar is narrower than the rest of the filter pipe work then it creates resistance to flow. The same goes for anything you put into the outflow of the tank like external heaters or co2 reactors.

Here is my solution. THE PHOTOS ARE FROM A PHONE so they suck - its all I had at hand.

I ordered from http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/clearplasticsupplies/ (~£10 for 2 of each length)

20mm x 2mm Clear Acrylic Tube Plastic Plexiglas Pipe 1m
External Diameter: 20mm
Internal Diameter: 16mm
Wall Thickness: 2mm


25mm x 2mm Clear Acrylic Tube Plastic Plexiglas Pipe 1m
External Diameter: 25mm
Internal Diameter: 21mm
Wall Thickness: 2mm

A HOT AIR HEAT GUN 2000W PAINT STRIPPER for about £13 off ebay

And a 20mm internal pipe bending spring from UK Plumbing Supplies
http://www.uk-plumbing.com/rifeng-20mm-internal-bending-spring-p-53653.html (approx £4)

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Previously I'd seen bending of acrylic with salt used to pack the pipe or electrical cord but this is an easier way in my limited experience (I've not tried the other ways).

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The 25mm tube is the main spray bar cut to fit the tank. The swan neck is the 20mm tube which I bent by heating and using the pipe bending spring. I have 3 other pipe bending springs because I initially made a smaller spray bar and I bought the wrong size. The 20mm internal pipe bending spring has a diameter of just less than 16mm!!

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1st attempt - notice the folding at the first bend.

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With a bit of practice and using a wine bottle as guide to bend around.

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So the swan neck has an ext diameter of 20mm and the spray bar has an internal diameter of 21mm. This way the swan neck fits neatly into the spray bar and I use a bit of plumbing tape to create a seal.

I heated the end of the narrower 20mm ext diameter tube and crimped it with some pliers to seal the end. I use a short section of this in the end of the 25mm spray bar fixed by drilling a hole through both and using a match stick as a rivet, this way I can clean the spray bar properly.

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I did find it difficult to attach the filter pipes especially as one of the clear filter pipes I attached had an internal diameter of 15mm! By heating them in boiling water they eventually stretched to fit. The photo is a bit distorted, it looks worse than it is.

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The first neck (near) is a glass cal aqua neck, the 2nd and 3rd are acrylic and you can see how the 20mm external diameter acrylic fits into the 21mm internal diameter acrylic. This way I can rotate the spray bar without adjusting the swan neck. (I'm running 2 filters now) I need to make an intake next but ran out of acrylic pipe hence the black tube.

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The 2nd spray bar is just above the soil behind the hardscape at the back right side of the tank. The bar sprays upwards towards the surface to create flow behind the hardscape and compliment the flow of the main bar.
 
Re: Re: Swamp Creek - updated 12/2010

Nice job :thumbup:

Very useful tip with the plumbing bending spring as I'm planning to try to make a 12mm spray bar for my nano. If I had the skills it would be cool to have some made of stainless steel, ADA style!
 
Re: Re: Swamp Creek - updated 12/2010

those pipes look the dogs danglies! i think someone had a former life as a plumber lol.

i wish someone would manufacture them for those of us not so plumbing orientated.

i have to say though im not keen on the way you've sealed the spraybar, the teflon tape just makes it look messy, after all that effort i think it should look perfect, im sure ive seen pipe end sealers at plumbers and builders merchants, you know the rubberised ones with ribs? ive seen them in opaque white, but dont know if they go up to 20mm diameter.
 
Re: Re: Swamp Creek - updated 12/2010

Fantastic pipes. Thanks for guide and links I will do same with my nano tanks!
 
Swamp Creek

I have posted a longer explanation in the filter sectionhttp://ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=14188

Basically I have a 1700lph filter producing 432lph. I have a plan.

So you might see that I've battled algae for a long time, not major algae but enough to require stripping leaves back all the time. My crypts melt regularly, especially around water change day or just after. I could not grow glosso. I've used a lilly pipe then spraybars (tmc ones - rubbish), then a lilly pipe and now I'm back to my home made spraybars.

I overdose ferts if anything, I have measured PAR levels for light requirements.

One thing thats always bugged me is why I have to dose my co2 so high to get a response in my tank. Its at 10 bubbles per second.

I think I may have found the source of my problems! :p
 
Re: Swamp Creek

I've installed my eheim compact+ 3000 pump driving my co2 reactor and external heater. The filter is an eheim pro3 2076 and it now has no obstructions to its flow except sintered glass.

Heres a camera phone (slightly shaky) you tube clip showing the flow and spray bar configuration. The surface spraybar is driven at a rated 3000lph and the angled spraybar behind the hardscape is driven by the filter at a rated 1700lph.

0 - 30sec = whole tank
30 - 1:00 = close up
1:00 - 1:50 = spraybars/surface movement



I plan to use a timer to switch off the external pump an hour after lights out and to switch it on with the co2 3 hours before lights on. The 2076 filter can also be set to reduce its flow after lights out. That should give the fish and shrimp an easier time.
 
Re: Swamp Creek

Hi Tyro

That some ripple you have, know wonder you're injecting co2 @ 10 bps, the more surface ripple you have - will vent of the gas quicker, that why your DC is yellow within the video, if it were me I would drop the spray bar down or twist the bar so the returning water is flowing in a downwards direction and drop your DC to mid water or even lower still, try and aim for a light shimmer on the water - just like you were lightly blowing on the water. This will keep the residual gas with the water column and with a bit of luck (fingers crossed) you can reduce the BPS, keep your eye on the DC to give some indicate what the Co2 ppm is.

Regards
Paul.
 
Re: Swamp Creek

Paul the thing is I've managed to drop my bubbles per second to about 5 since I have increased flow and surface movement. Its probably down to improved dissolving of gas into the water column with the large increase in flow through the co2 reactor. The vid was taken at 5 bubbles per sec. I agree that I'm probably losing some gas from the increased surface movement and have added water to the tank ( effectively lowering spraybar).
 
Re: Swamp Creek

As always I'm struggling a bit. Just need to keep trying things and see if I can eliminate the algae, get my crypts to stop melting and see if I can grow a carpet plant. I planted Eleocharis parvula about 5 weeks ago and have had no runners, some top growth. I turned up my lights and they did not respond, then I stared losing some crypt leaves.

Have added spraybars, a 3000lph external pump driving the co2 reactor (in addition to 1700lph filtration), upped my ferts to at least double EI, 50% water change per week + odd top up, 10bps/yellow drop checker, 7hrs lights.

My conclusion is it must be poor co2 diffusion despite a yellow drop checker. My flow down to the carpet seems better than ever.

My next step is to change the sera reactor for an UP Atomiser which seems to get good reviews on the forum. It's on its way from HK

This is a hand held shot at f2.8 with pump on so the there a bit of blur. Feeling lazy!

The ceratopteris in the left hand corner is temporary - just trying to have a decent plant mass. The staurogyne is a test to see what I can grow at the carpet level - its actually doing ok, better than the hair grass which had a trim today.

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