Struggling to grow anything that doesn't end up having algae issues

[papa_c]

Also I was informed not to fert dose the tank due to the algae situation.

And here lies the first thing I would change, totally wrong information.

My suggestion is start by removing as much algea as possible, multiple water changes making sure you get all the detritus out of the the tank.

Stick to known fert regime, don't miss any doses out.

Make sure you get a solid 1 point ph drop from the time the co2 comes on to when the lights switch on. Start with the co2 on 2-3 hours before the light and run it through the light period, switching of 30mins from the end. I would stick to one continuous light period 3pm to 9pm

 

[Nathanh2150]

Thankyou for your message,
so if I set the light to come on at 3pm-9pm and have the co2 to come on 12pm-6pm would that be ideal ? also as I have the light on a set timer to adjust the lighting what would you suggest as I'm thinking.. please correct me if this is a bit out for the lighting and photo period ...
2pm-0%
3pm-25%
4pm-40%
5pm-55%
6pm-45%
7pm-30%
8pm-25%
9pm-10%
10pm-0%

Also as I have recently stopped with the ferts would it be wise to start again as I was told it would create more algae ? and that I would need to let the plants use up and to settle with only the root tabs on the substrate. with the ferts I usually do 2 pumps

 

[Wookii]

Thankyou for your message,
so if I set the light to come on at 3pm-9pm and have the co2 to come on 12pm-6pm would that be ideal ? also as I have the light on a set timer to adjust the lighting what would you suggest as I'm thinking.. please correct me if this is a bit out for the lighting and photo period ...
2pm-0%
3pm-25%
4pm-40%
5pm-55%
6pm-45%
7pm-30%
8pm-25%
9pm-10%
10pm-0%

Also as I have recently stopped with the ferts would it be wise to start again as I was told it would create more algae ? and that I would need to let the plants use up and to settle with only the root tabs on the substrate. with the ferts I usually do 2 pumps

I think the light ramping is a waste of time, you have hour long periods where the light may be too low for the plants, but sufficient for algae.

10 minutes of ramping is sufficient for live stock, then just have the ready of the period at your chose light level.

As mentioned by other folks above, if you don’t feed the plants everything they need you invite algae to take hold.

Also, you still haven’t mentioned what fert you are using, or you’re tank volume?

 

[Nathanh2150]

Morning,
My tank is an aquascaper 900 tank information is ...

Aquarium Dimensions	Total Volume (Nett)	Glass Thickness	Cabinet Height	Number of Doors
L:900mm x W:500mm x H:450mm	186 Ltrs	10mm Ultra Clear Glass	830mm	2

So is it wise to start feeding the plants now as I haven't been feeding for the past month. Only as i had information that if i kept feeding ferts it would feed the algae so if i got the algae under control and gone from the tank to start feeding with ferts after.

 

[foxfish]

Hi Nathanh, if you can find some spare time I would suggest that you re read back through this thread as all your questions have been answered…. basically, you have previously been told a lot of false or incorrect information!

 

[Nathanh2150]

My ferts that I currently have

 

[mort]

There is so much information out there that contridicts other advice and it's can be tricky to navigate it all. I would go back to basics as constantly tweaking the tank in different directions without giving it long enough to see if it works, doesn't help.
There is so much info on this forum that will help but I'd try and get my head around what all the elements of healthy plants are and what causes issues. This thread is a good concise start but there's more on the algae part of the forum ALGAE PROBLEMS: Read this

Without offering solutions from your full tank pictures your problems stem from an unbalanced aqaurium and low plant mass. Plants are susceptible to algae when they aren't in optimal health and it's clear from the amount of bba you have that they haven't been growing strongly for sometime. You have gone the high tech route which can work really well even for less experienced people but it does rely on very heavy planting otherwise it's more difficult.

 

[Nathanh2150]

I am looking to add a lot more plants to the back of the scape as it's suggested in the previous comments that I need to add more plants which I'm more then happy to do to help resolve any issues that I am currently facing. also I'm now gonna start with ferts once again 2 pumps a day to give the plants the food they need. even though people have said not too. I'm also going to use a toothbrush also cut off any leaves that seem to have any algae on also doing weekly to 2x weekly water changes to help. With the saturation with the lighting period I'm now moving this to 6 hours a day turning on at 3pm-9pm and with the dimmer I'm not gonna have it dimming just a set % as I found this worked well on my small fluval flex co2 coming on 2 hours before light turns on also 2 hours before light switches off . I also have been looking into grabbing some (Panda Garras/Garra Flavatra) maybe a group of 5 all depending pricing and availability in my local aquatics store. but its all learning and I'm glad its not caused any loss on my fish as they cost an arm & a leg 😀
With the health of the plants iv had no floating leaves and none that have gone yellow/Brown (Apart from the hair grass even tho it is still has green stems)
(Once again thankyou to everyone so far that has replied to my post I apricate all the advice and help and i would of not of known where to start on dealing with this)

If you would like more photos of the plants then im more then happy to add more photos

 

[SRP3006]

I have a aquascaper 900 and I believe you may struggle to get a 1 point ph drop (lime green drop checker) in only 2 hours. My co2 is on for 4 hours before lights, co2 9am,lights 1pm. I probably wouldn't turn off the co2 2hrs before the lights either. 1hr is ample. The lighting time is fine for the Twinstar but I echo @Wookii comments regarding the ramp. A gentle ramp over a short time period is more than enough not to scare the fish and benefits the plants to not have to light output fluctuating throughout the photoperiod.
Definitely start adding the ferts that you have but have a look on this forum, there is a very good write up on EI dosing which would be a lot cheaper than the pre mixed expensive ferts you have.
Also if you have the time more water changes would be helpful to flush the system as you remove the algae. I'd probably be trying to do daily water changes.

 

[Nathanh2150]

Hi @SRP3006
It great that you also have the Aquascapper 900 well I was thinking the same tbo as it will be around 5hrs without co2. May I ask What Set-up you have and lighting ? as if we have the same and it works well for you I could also do the same to see what happens..

 

[SRP3006]

In the beginning I had a aquascaper 900, twinstar s and oase bio 600, co2 by a inline diffuser, all the kit was recommended by aquarium Gardens when I originally set it up. Only thing that has changed is the lighting, I changed to a chihiros vivid a few months ago but all the timings have stayed the same.
My twinstar was running at 100% and I was dosing EI ferts daily. I'm not for any moment suggesting you run your lights at 100% though just telling you how I was running it 👍

I would be following everyone's advice on this thread first before making too many different changes. First I'd reduce lighting and dose ferts. Then I'd increase maintenance and maybe add some floaters to help absorb some of the excess. Only once I'd got on top of the algae would I add anymore rooted plants.
Definitely start with a strong course of water changes and try to get as much waste removed as possible.

 

[Nathanh2150]

Good information thankyou 😀
with the light brightness what would you recommend as I'm thinking around 65% instance light lighting from 3pm-9pm without any changes in dimming or brightness so its always on the same setting's each day. Also 100% not adding anymore plants into the tank until the algae is completely gone as wouldn't want to affect them with algae 😀
With daily water changes would you say 50% for the first week and the 2nd week do once every other day 25% water change then the 3rd week twice a water change of 50% then the 4th week go back to normal routine?
And with the ferts to keep it going with 2 pumps a day in the morning before lighting comes on as the tank will have natural lighting.
with the co2 having it turn on at 11am and turning off at 8pm I also have an inline co2 defuser by co2art with ADA CLEAR piping and I clean those with a brush and the glass wear also once a week.

 

[sparkyweasel]

Also 100% not adding anymore plants into the tank until the algae is completely gone as wouldn't want to affect them with algae 😀

More plants will help you. You could get a big bunch of cheap Elodea from a pond shop to bulk up the plant mass, and then replace it with your chosen plants bit by bit when your tank is more balanced.

 

[Nathanh2150]

Hi @sparkyweasel
I was looking into grabbing some just to tide me over untill the tank is settled in and that I can add more plants but I was just thinking with this plant if it will be eaten as I know cold water fish love this plant to nibble on so didn’t know about tropical fish if they would do the same ? But it’s worth a go even if I grab just 3 bunches plus there not expensive Id say a couple of quid tops.

 

[SRP3006]

With regards to your ferts I haven't used any of the ones you have so can't help I'm afraid 👍
Water changes wise I'd prob be aiming for 50% minimum but I tend to do more like 80% and a couple on the bounce if I notice something wrong etc.
Something like hornwort floating would reduce light at the substrate and give you some fast growing stems to help.
I'd probably go around 40 - 50% on your light but I only used a twinstar for a while.

 

[sparkyweasel]

I was just thinking with this plant if it will be eaten as I know cold water fish love this plant to nibble on so didn’t know about tropical fish

Yes, Goldfish nibble on it, but most tropicals won't. Not sure about your Torpedo Barb, some barbs will have a nibble, but it grows fast and as you say it's cheap enough. 🙂

 

[papa_c]

I have a 900 and my summary to start with would as follows.

2 x 80% water changes back to back to get all the detritus out of the tank, possibly a third if you don't get it all.

Co2 on at 11.00 you want a full 1point ph drop in the ph profile before Lights on, search ph profile to understand more about this

Lights on at 15.00 at 50% (ditch the ramp up/down)

Co2 off at 20.30

Lights off at 21.00

Full fert dosing, don't miss any

Carry on twice weekly water changes about 75%

Leave this running and do not be tempted to change anything for 3 weeks. Study growth and don't miss any water changes.

 

[Nathanh2150]

@papa_c & @SRP3006
Thankyou for getting back to me with the good advice much apricated.
I have now set the light to 50% max light for the aquarium also the co2
fish tank times of light coming on is
3pm-50%
4pm-50%
5pm- 50%
6pm-50%
7pm-50%
8pm-50%
9pm-0%
Shall be doing daily ferts
co2 coming on at 11am off at 8.30pm


Will start all work on the tank on Saturday as that's my next day off from work and shall carry out all the water changes from then onwards.

 

[papa_c]

Important part of co2 is making sure you have enough going in.

Measure water ph before the co2 switches on, and measure again at lights on....you are looking for a 1 point drop in the 2 figures.

 

[Nathanh2150]

@papa_c
I have a PH Tester but I'm not sure that I know how to use it correctly as have neva checked PH in any of my aquarium's before
It was brought on ebay comes with all its attachments' ect.

But I do have tetra 6-in-1 testing strips that include Ph
which I use more