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Seting up a planted tank

Djjjohny1986

Seedling
Joined
19 Feb 2013
Messages
13
Hi and am knew to the forum I've keeped tropical in the past and I even keep marine t the min but never real plants its always Been plastic plants I want itto be low tech what soil / compost should I use heard about John innes no 3 stuff was going to put sand on top of it and was going to use a led light over the top do I need to add food for the plants ect I would be very gratefull for any help thanks
 
Well it depends on your budget really. You can use inert gravel with root tabs also if you don't want to cap anything. My choice will be Seachem Flourite as it doesn't break down over time and charges with the nutrients in the water column. For the light you need to make sure the LED you intend to use will be in the 6500K - 8600K range for plants to grow. Otherwise Algae around the corner. I would definitely add some sort of Carbon fertz to the list. I use Seachem Excel for this when not running Co2 on my tanks. Others will include either Iron or you can invest in a solution like the Tropica range that has all the micro elements combined. Or just get yourself Seachem Comprehensive and Excel.

I personally don't like the capping idea as this somewhat limits you in terms of re scaping. If you manage to disturb the lower parts it can cloud your water. My 5 foot tank has palm fiber peat capped with pool filter sand, and for this very reason I am going to change it to Flourite.

Also remember that if you consider plants like Swords or Crypts you need good root supply such as root tablets or nutrient rich substrate as they are heavy root feeders.

Good luck 😉
 
For the light you need to make sure the LED you intend to use will be in the 6500K - 8600K range for plants to grow. Otherwise Algae around the corner.
This is completely untrue. Algae lives around the corner and does not care what color your light bulbs are. That is a guarantee.

am going to use a 10k marine led light
If this looks nice then definitely use it, but just make sure you don't use too much light, whatever color you choose, because too much light of any color will trigger algal blooms, especially if you are not adding CO2.

Also remember that if you consider plants like Swords or Crypts you need good root supply such as root tablets or nutrient rich substrate as they are heavy root feeders.
This is also untrue. Crypts, swords and other plants enjoy and feed voraciously from the water column. Likewise, stem plants also feed from the roots. It's always better to have nutrients in both the water column and the sediment but it is never a requirement for the substrate to be enriched. Besides, if you are using a compost then there will be plenty of nutrients in the compost. Root tabs will be an unnecessary expense.

Cheers,
 
This is also untrue. Crypts, swords and other plants enjoy and feed voraciously from the water column. Likewise, stem plants also feed from the roots. It's always better to have nutrients in both the water column and the sediment but it is never a requirement for the substrate to be enriched. Besides, if you are using a compost then there will be plenty of nutrients in the compost. Root tabs will be an unnecessary expense

It is worth mentioning that is a plant has a vast root structure it will therefore demand heavy root feeding for good health. If you do not have a substrate additive like flourite or laterite you way want to add fert sticks or root tabs below the roots before you replant. These species will greatly benefit from such products.

This has been quoted from one of the articles. If I'm so wrong then why do you sell something that isn't true? Did you also analyse this column and single out certain phrases as not true?

As for the 10 000k lighting being good for plants.. Why is it that Iv'e used them with plants, Co2 and fertilizers and had no growth? I agree that these can be run combined with other known plant growing spectrum bulbs for aesthetic reasons. Not taking you one here, but it looks to me as if you are picking certain phrases to try and prove a point. Did I at any stage mention that these plants are root feeders only?

Growing plants have many good practices and no one thing can be singled out as the ONLY correct method. There are many good practices for growing plants.

Cheers,
 
This has been quoted from one of the articles. If I'm so wrong then why do you sell something that isn't true? Did you also analyse this column and single out certain phrases as not true?
Hi,
The answer is simple. You are so wrong because you assume that crypts and swords can only be successful if root tabs are used and you assume that if root tabs are not used then this will result in failure. So you are viewing the world through a tunnel and you are not seeing the wider perspective. All plants need nutrition for growing their structure but it does not matter where the nutrients come from.

In the first place, you glossed over the fact that OP intends to use soil/compost. Soil/compost mixtures are extremely rich in nutrition, which obviates the need for any additional nutrient supplementation.

Secondly, as I mentioned, if one were to use an inert substrate supplemented with root tabs, and if water column dosing were not being used, then it would benefit all plants, not just crypts and swords.

Thirdly, if inert substrates were being used and if water column dosing were being used alone then water column dosing will equally benefit crypts/swords as well as any other plant with roots in the substrate.

The wider picture therefore is that it is always better to have both a nutritious sediment and water column dosing however, it is important to know that crypts and swords do not need to feed from the sediment preferentially. If nutrients are available in the sediment then they will draw nutrients from the sediment. If the sediment is low in nutrition but the water column is rich then they will feed from the water column with no loss of performance. If both the sediment and water column is rich then they will uptake nutrition from both locations - and so will every other plant. All aquatic plants feed from whatever location they can. Aquatic plants that have roots have an advantage in terms of nutrient uptake potential over those that do not have roots, such as mosses. The purpose and function of roots is far beyond just feeding. Roots anchor the plant so that it is less likely to be washed away or uprooted if their is a disturbance such as storms. A solid root structure also allows the plant to live in a fast flowing stream, where plants with lesser root structures would be unable to live, for example. Large root structures are also correlated to plants that have a better ability to use sedimentary sources of CO2. Large root structures enable a plant to more easily colonize areas, using the roots as "runners". Crypts and swords will muscle in and dominate your tank if you do not regularly uproot them and trim those very same roots.

Plenty of uses for roots, but folks tend to hypnotize themselves and miss the broader implications.


As for the 10 000k lighting being good for plants.. Why is it that Iv'e used them with plants, Co2 and fertilizers and had no growth?
Because you have done something wrong in the tank which has absolutely nothing to do with 10,000K and you automatically assumed that your failure was due to 10,000K instead of blaming the failure on the true root cause. I don't have any trouble growing plants with any bulb from incandescent light bulbs 2000K through the range of 10,000K Actinic. If I were to guess, I would say that you probably had poor CO2/flow/distribution and simply failed to recognize the basic flaws of your technique. The reason for my guess is that there is a 95% probability that poor CO2 is the cause of failures in planted tanks.

There are plenty of people using 6500K bulbs and who fail miserably. Conversely, there are others who use 10,000K bulbs successfully without issues, so how can failure be attributable to color spectrum alone? I agree with the statement that
growing plants have many good practices and no one thing can be singled out as the ONLY correct method. That's why you should not single out 6500K or root tabs as the only correct method.

Here are plants grown with 10,000K:
8394110807_d3a902a39d_z.jpg

Here are plants grown with 4000K:
8394107087_48b5233981_z.jpg

Here is a heavy root feeder, in inert sediment, never seen a root tab, and grown under 10,000K:
8394117721_3b9090c7ea_z.jpg

Cheers,
 
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