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Rotala

M

max73

Member
Joined
3 Jul 2023
Messages
223
Location
Italia
good evening, I wanted to know what is missing from the rotala juce or is it an excess? because before they were colored but I had zero cyanobacteria and nitrates, as advised I increased the ferrilization and brought the nitrates to 10 but the colors of the rotales are no longer there. Instead the red plant at the bottom which I don't remember the name has become enormousIMG20250217173430.jpgIMG20250217173413.jpgIMG20250217173419.jpg
 
Hi all,
max73 said:
good evening, I wanted to know what is missing from the rotala juce or is it an excess? because before they were colored but I had zero cyanobacteria and nitrates, as advised I increased the ferrilization and brought the nitrates to 10 but the colors of the rotales are no longer there.View attachment 227292
Click to expand...
It looks like you might have some <"iron (Fe) deficiency issues">, these may now be more apparent with the increased growth due to the lessening of nitrogen (N) limitation (the very pale new leaves).

cheers Darrel
 
hi darrel sorry I wrote badly and translated badly. I had the nitrates at zero and they were colored, but I also had the cyanobacteria. I raised the nitrate to 10 and the cyans disappeared but the colors of the rotales too. Do you think it's low iron?
 
Many red plants turn red in low nitrates and really bright lights with plenty of co2. I think nitrates are required for production of chlorophyll so limitation of it results in redder plants.
 
1. Size of tank.
2. Age of the system approximately.
3. Tap water parameters.
4. Filtration and Media.
5. Lighting and duration.
6. Substrate.
7. Co2 dosing or Non-dosing.
8. Drop Checker.
9. Fertilizers used + Ratios.
10. Water change regime and composition.
11. Plant list + Invitro/Emersed.
12. Inhabitants.
13. Full tank shot and surface image.
 
80.40.40 chihiros wrgb2 60cm 7 hours oase 600 matrix filter and co2 sponge 5 hours before turning on the lights. ada v2 bottom more dennerle
 
Last edited:
Had low nitrates, now have high nitrates. Plant starts producing chlorophyll. I think it’s probably this simple. There may be other things happening but I grew red root floater in barely any nitrates with intensely bright light and it didn’t have a spot of green on it.

WaterCulture

Thread 'Nitrate Starvation, Red Colouration promotion'

Hi everyone, hope you are well.

I know its a tried and tested measure that a combination of high lights, co2 and All nutrients, while having minimal Nitrate promotes red colouration by deactivating the gene responsible for green chlorophyll.

However my tank has a nice mixture of plants with the potential to be very red (H'ra, AR Mini, Red tiger lotus, lugwigia super red etc)
but also has alot of green plants which will never turn red.

So my question is, while low nitrates are advantagous to my reds, will my greens suffer ?

Thanks

www.2hraquarist.com

How to grow Rotala Rotundifolia

The attractive orange-red Rotala rotundifola is a fast growing stem plant that has been a staple of the planted aquarium world for a long time. This is a detailed guide on how to grow Rotala Rotundifolia, including how to overcome challenges in keeping this species.
www.2hraquarist.com www.2hraquarist.com

www.liverpoolcreekaquariums.com.au

Red Plants & Nitrates

Some varieties of “red” plants only reach their full colouration when availability of nitrate in the water column is limited. This is because a lack of nitrogen delays the development of chlorophyll, which is what makes leaves appear green. Without the chlorophyll, red or orange plants can...
www.liverpoolcreekaquariums.com.au www.liverpoolcreekaquariums.com.au
 
max73 said:
5 hours before turning on the lights
Click to expand...
Your tank is obviously outstanding but I think personally your CO2 levels look too high, more like the levels for a plant only tank. Fern/forest/mid-green is fine, your indicator looks too close to yellow for my comfort, to my eye a little beyond lime green. This is probably beyond the comfort level of the fish. I also think that Darrel our real expert is probably right and that some sequestered/chelated iron would be a good addition, I might even be tempted to up the Nitrate a bit, I generally find <10 is best to keep algae under control but some plants in very intense light and with very high CO2 quickly pull out the Nitrate from the water column, so <20 after fertilisation might help. But clearly you aren't doing much that is wrong. Very impressive plant mass of some quite demanding plants.
 
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