• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

Positioning Spraybar?

As this no longer seems to be about spray bar positioning, beginning a new topic re specific plant growth issues might generate more assistance

Details such as those listed in the beginning post of Dragons Den
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/dragons-den.57416/
are useful

If possible include photos of tank set up, plant closeups etc

bhavik said:
also does decreasing the temp of the tank a couple of decrease increase the amount of CO2 can hold from the atmosphere from surface movement?
Click to expand...
I think you’re asking how surface movement affects CO2 transfer from air to water column?
And will this improve with lowered temperature?

My thoughts
- what is the current tank temp?
- what is the target temperature?
- is this the only source of CO2?
- are you adding “liquid carbon” supplements? if so, what exactly?
- is fish load moderate? light? heavy? (a list of snails, shrimp, fish species and number would help me deduce effects of CO2 from livestock)
- what are tank dimensions? - volume to surface area ratio is important when considering passive diffusion

When you provide minimal information, all I can do is guess (wildly) at possible factors and effects, the more detail you provide, the more informed my guesses might be
 
Yea if you decrease water temperature the co2 is more readily dissolvable. Green Aqua run all their tanks at 22-23 degrees for this very reason I believe
 
Also would keeping up the water changes help in getting stable co2 in the tank?
Say water changes ever 1-2 weeks?
 
Water changes add co2 to the system temporarily. Either do them once a day before lights on or do them as part of your maintenance regime.
 
Ok that’s fine so the more water changes I do the better the co2 will be?
 
bhavik said:
Ok that’s fine so the more water changes I do the better the co2 will be?
Click to expand...

I use a pH controller Via a PLC to control my tank, its a bit OTT, however it does make things easier IMO. I always get the pH drop after a WC a bout 25% faster after a WC it is dependent on how much of a WC I do and how close the WC is next to the CO2 starting OFC but there is allows a significant difference.
So IMO/IME the user who doesnt use a pH controller and just injects CO2 at a constant rate and duration will on WC day have a bigger pH drop for lights on. I not saying a pH controller is worth the money or in fact needed, I would say the opposite in fact. I Good pH probe/pen on the other hand is very useful.

I do plan to take the pH controllor off my tank, as I only use it the control a fast pH drop with having duel CO2 injection, but do plan to have the CO2 on time before lights shorter on WC day (made easy with PLC)
 
That makes perfect sense. I was assuming anon injected system, in which a water change will add co2, if the water is already saturated with co2 from a night of continuous injection and no 'users' then what you have observed will be true.
 
bhavik said:
???
Click to expand...

If that is referring my post about CO2 and the change in the time it takes to reach target pH/[CO2] via the pH controller. What I was trying to say is that if the WC is near lights on then you will get an increase in [CO2] for lights on just in doing the WC, however you would need to to it every day and you would still have fluctuating [CO2] as the [CO2] will decrease as it degases and the plants use it. Fluctuating [CO2] is worse than no CO2
 
Agreed, looking back you are not injecting co2, so water changes will add co2 for maybe 1 day max, but fluctuating levels of co2 in your system are not good. So in conclusion we do not recommend water changes to increase co2 levels.

As an aside, I now dose guteraldehyde with my water changes to minimise the risk of algae taking hold during this "time of change" which is proving quite effective.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top