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(NO MORE) 2,000L High tech BEAST

You know how they always say "swords are heavy root feeders!"

All my swords grow well, in inert substrate and no root tabs. I guess its how Clive always says, do EI dosing and you wont have to worry about ferts.

Check out my echinodorus cordifolius. I bought it because I read its the largest growing one. I actually wish it stayed the size it is. See for yourselves.



Thanks for reading
Fil
 
Well done!

I’ve lost track of this journal and just did a catch up now 🙂

300 rummy nose in 2000 litres - should do just fine, especially as auto drip was changing 400-600 litres per day
Depending on which species you had, they may be sensitive to oxygen levels - green water can easily decrease oxygen levels (both as a living bacteria and as a dying bacteria)

I’m dubious of any link between ammonia and your green water outbreak - for me it’s an annual Spring event ... most years it’s just a slight clouding of the water but I’ve also had the pea soup effect - which becomes a concern re oxygen sequestration
I’ve yet to measure any ammonia during the “trigger” season (obviously won’t measure any ammonia during a GW event as any free ammonia will be rapidly consumed)

Ultrafiltration (diatomaceous earth) is one of the most consistent methods for dealing with GW, UV likely comes in second (did nothing to my pea soup)

Large water changes (as in 80-90% not a mere 50% 😉 ) are helpful as it physically reduces bacteria level, and oxygenates water (most tap has significant dissolved gases including oxygen and CO2, depending)

Rummy nose can be sensitive to shipping, die off usually begins several days following and may be the odd fish here and there, or catastrophic
Columnaris may definitely be present (again death may be consequential or catastrophic depending on strain) and as this infects gill as a primary site, oxygen lack is again an issue

You can certainly “prepare” your filter for sudden fish increases by feeding heavily for a couple weeks prior, but the more usual method is just to feed new fish sparingly over the first couple weeks, combined with frequent water changes

Buying in smaller (juvenile) fish rather than adult size, generally improves success rate
- fish are definitely young and not aged
- smaller fish usually ship “better” re lower mass and volume for the limited water/oxygen present in the shipping bags
- young fish generally stress less over the crowding and change in environs than adult fish
And of course, they present less of a bioload change when added to aquaria
 
goldscapes said:
Is this on your Christmas list?
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LOL

Actually, Im struggling to take pics of plants in the middle of the tank. I might need a more low tech version of the blue eye. Would love to give you guys a "swim through" the tank 😀

Thanks for reading
Fil
 
If you’re serious about an underwater drone there’s a second hand Robosea Biki on eBay at the moment. It’s the perfect size for your tank and HOW much fun! (I’ve never used one though so might be a bit of a punt)
 
goldscapes said:
Robosea Biki on eBay
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Just seen it, the price is slightly out of my budget range, I was thinking more of a bag I can put my phone in!!! Hehe

goldscapes said:
Whenever my tank is getting the better of me I take a look at this thread to cheer me up!
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Haha that's hilarious!
Glad to be of use, any way possible 😉
Although to be fair, all the tech and plumbing helps narrows down maintenance to just trimming and water changes (and those are dead easy). My 50L shrimp tank gives me more hassle (tearing it down today).

Im actually planning a shallow 200L to sit next to the Beast. It will take excess plants from the big boy, possibly for re-sale.
I've got so much tech here, might as well recover some of the cost with little effort.

Thanks for reading
Fil
 
Rescape ongoing. Sneak peak below 😉

Rotala macrandra tissue culture pearling, despite being 70cm from the lights, and in the corner of the tank. I feel the Beast could grow any demanding carpet I wished. Maintenance on it? well thats another story...
(For those who feared such a deep tank wont have enough light at substrate.)

20181227_181130.jpg
 
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Dear god that looks amazing
im carpeting rotala h'ra right now, i dont see why you couldnt carpet rotala mac with some precision. I recommend planting them Sideways however, than planting them straight up, then trimming them Down. That proves to be less effective when making a carpet.
 
Filip Krupa said:
Rotala macrandra tissue culture pearling, despite being 70cm from the lights, and in the corner of the tank
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Impressive and proceed with caution IMO/IME, My carpet was struggling at one point so I increased the light intensity with extra lights and my carpet pearled like mad and was a sight to see and the carpet did really well then I started to get holes in my crypts increased the [CO2] increased the flow fitted reactors and so on until I had it pretty maxed out with the DC going clear at lights on with the setup at the time, then finally as the holes and melting got so bad I removed the extra lights but the carpet did great during the extra intensity. Crypt melt got so bad I ended up trimming them all back to the substrate level at one point, they all grew back fine esp when I decreased the light intensity. Mine was in 60cm deep tank but the depth from the surface of the water to substrate level was 50cm
 
DutchMuch said:
Dear god that looks amazing
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Strong choice of words! Thanks! 😀

DutchMuch said:
i dont see why you couldnt carpet rotala mac with some precision
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Thats an idea!
However, I tend to gravitate to less maintenance heavy options.
I will probably just grown the macrandra out and replant to a couple of places around the continuously offending white rocks 😀

Thanks
Fil
 
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