New uncycled tank: to plant or not to plant?

[Sylrae]

I've spent many hours reading the very informative threads and comments by Darrel, Dr Tim, the planetcatfish threads and others. It seems that how/if people choose to cycle their tanks can be somewhat controversial, and unfortunately, it was all a bit overwhelming and I have been left more confused than before I started.

I'm setting up a new nano Spec V using ADA Amazonia ver 2 substrate, no cap, and pressurised co2 (first timer!). I would prefer to avoid adding garden soil/compost. I do not have access to mature filter media as a bacterial starter.

I'd like to plant primarily monte carlo, dwarf hairgrass, marsilea crenata/minuta, cryptocoryne parva, and some epiphyte anubias mini coin & bucephalandra. All tissue culture.

1. Based on all the information I've read here today, am I correct in thinking that when setting up the tank, I can simply add everything at the same time from Day 1: aquasoil, plants, co2, freshly treated tap water (prime) etc?

2. Are there any benefits to cycling the tank with the aquasoil, then adding the plants a few weeks later? (Such as avoiding melt or plant loss?)

3. I understand Dr Tims/Tetrasafe is not considered necessary, but is it worth it if it's a clean new tank and the plants are all tissue culture?

4. What is the best order to set this up to increase the chances of success?

5. I understand the pros of dry ferts but would prefer a simple liquid option; which of the 2hr Aquarist products would be most suitable?

Once the tank is cycled and safe for livestock I will add dwarf shrimp, then later a betta. I am not in a rush to add livestock, I just want to understand what will provide the best start for the plants to get the tank nice and healthy and in what order I should do things to avoid plant loss. I am concerned about some of the comments regarding high ammonia during cycling killing/melting plants.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Syl

 

[Little]

My advice is to plant everything except the buce day one. Use a load of floating plants day one too. Then add buce after two to six weeks.
Other tips from me is to start with low light and ramp up a little each week.
Skip bottled bacteria and ask someone for some floating plants or filter muck instead.

Regarding dark start, it will help reduce start up water changes but honestly might as well just do a normal start and change water daily for a week or so if your keen to get going.
I like dark start as I really like taking my time.

 

[simon_the_plant_nerd]

1. Based on all the information I've read here today, am I correct in thinking that when setting up the tank, I can simply add everything at the same time from Day 1: aquasoil, plants, co2, freshly treated tap water (prime) etc?

Yep, just put it all in at the same time. That’s my approach. Unless you are growing very specific or sensitive plants, everything will just adapt. It will take time for culture grown plants to adapt to underwater life and you may as well just get started.

2. Are there any benefits to cycling the tank with the aquasoil, then adding the plants a few weeks later? (Such as avoiding melt or plant loss?)

Nope. ‘Cycling’ is for the benefit of fish and other animals. Plants won’t care what you do.

3. I understand Dr Tims/Tetrasafe is not considered necessary, but is it worth it if it's a clean new tank and the plants are all tissue culture?

Filter muck, plants or wood from an established tank would be better.

4. What is the best order to set this up to increase the chances of success?

Success I think in this hobby is usually linked to patience. Get it all planted and start your maintenance routine as you mean to go on. It will take time for things to establish and get going so just be patient and stick to the plan.

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

Are there any benefits to cycling the tank with the aquasoil, then adding the plants a few weeks later? (Such as avoiding melt or plant loss?)

In this case I think there probably is, purely because the soil is going to leach ammonia (NH3) and tissue cultured plants tend to be fairly sensitive. Possibly a dark start and plenty of water changes?

If you do want to plant I would definitely add a floating plant, "Nile Cabbage" (<"Pistia stratiotes">) might be the best option or <"Using stem plants as a filtering aid at Start Up!">.

Filter muck, plants or wood from an established tank would be better.

It would be, but if you don't have access to this? Then a additive might help, have a look at <"Correspondence with Dr Ryan Newton - School of Freshwater Sciences, University of Wisconsin—Milwaukee">.

.... If you do need to add nitrifiers the best source is from an aquaponics or aquaculture system that is already running and removing ammonia. Some water or sediment/soil or part of the biobilter (if there is one) is an excellent starter. Without this source as an inoculum then you could add some roots from plants from any other tank that is running - these are likely to have nitrifiers associated with them. A small clipping put into the tank would be enough.

In some lab tests we found that adding previous material from a running biofilter could reduce ammonia oxidation start-up time from 2-3 weeks to 2-3 days. We also tested a commercial product of nitrifiers & it did decrease the time to ammonia oxidation start-up. It was slower than our biofilter material transfer, but much quicker than doing nothing. However, the microbes present in the system from the commercial product disappeared over a few weeks and were replaced by those more common to our system. So, it seems some products could help “jump-start” the process, but it will be a lot less predictable and ultimately may not determine what microbe succeed in the long run ......

These are Dr Newton's findings.

Success I think in this hobby is usually linked to patience. Get it all planted and start your maintenance routine as you mean to go on. It will take time for things to establish and get going so just be patient and stick to the plan.

Pretty much that.

which of the 2hr Aquarist products would be most suitable?

You will need one with all the nutrients present <"2Hr Aquarist APT 3">.

cheers Darrel

 

[simon_the_plant_nerd]

It would be, but if you don't have access to this? Then a additive might help, have a look at <"Correspondence with Dr Ryan Newton - School of Freshwater Sciences, University of Wisconsin—Milwaukee">.

A good point.

@Sylrae If you would like some floating plants and a bag of filter muck, let me know and I’ll post some to you. 👍🏻