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New tank query

Teena

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I’ve got a new planted tropical aquarium that has been cycling for about 2 weeks. I’ve been doing regular water changes but can’t seem to get the pH and ammonia to drop consistently (currently pH 7.7 and Ammonia 0.036) After a water change it starts to rise again after about 36 hours.

I’ve been adding Fluval biocleaner and bio booster with every water change.

I’ve read in some places ammonia levels are already down to 0 after two weeks. I’d appreciate some advice about whether it’s just a matter of being patient or should I be doing something else?
IMG_2738.jpeg
 
Hi all,
I’ve read in some places ammonia levels are already down to 0 after two weeks. I’d appreciate some advice about whether it’s just a matter of being patient or should I be doing something else?
Yes, just be patient. If you could get some fast growing plants? It would help. I like <"a floating plant">, but there are other options - <"Using stem plants as a filtering aid at Start Up!>. Once you have a reasonable plant mass your tank is "cycled". Have a look at <"Dark start vs old filter media?">
Dont add any commercial product, they are useless. Go to local LFS, buy dirty sponge and squeeze it inside of the aquarium, that will boost your cycle
Did you add ammonia (NH3) initially? If you did? It doesn't matter, but you don't need to, it doesn't serve any useful purpose, whatever other sites and LFS etc. tell you.

Have a look at <"Correspondence with Dr Ryan Newton - School of Freshwater Sciences, University of Wisconsin—Milwaukee">, it is a fairly technical thread, but Dr Newton's comments in the first post summarise where we are and backs up @nijat11's suggestion.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all,

Yes, just be patient. If you could get some fast growing plants? It would help. I like <"a floating plant">, but there are other options - <"Using stem plants as a filtering aid at Start Up!>. Once you have a reasonable plant mass your tank is "cycled". Have a look at <"Dark start vs old filter media?">

Did you add ammonia (NH3) initially? If you did? It doesn't matter, but you don't need to, it doesn't serve any useful purpose, whatever other sites and LFS etc. tell you.

Have a look at <"Correspondence with Dr Ryan Newton - School of Freshwater Sciences, University of Wisconsin—Milwaukee">, it is a fairly technical thread, but Dr Newton's comments in the first post summarise where we are and backs up @nijat11's suggestion.

cheers Darrel
Thank you that’s very helpful. I didn’t add any ammonia at the start. I’m happy to know I should keep going with what I’m doing and not missing anything. I added 5 new faster growing plants this weekend so hoping these will help.

I was cautioned about adding too plant fertiliser at this stage as it might lead to algae blooms. Would you agree with this advice?
 
I’ve got a new planted tropical aquarium that has been cycling for about 2 weeks. I’ve been doing regular water changes but can’t seem to get the pH and ammonia to drop consistently (currently pH 7.7 and Ammonia 0.036) After a water change it starts to rise again after about 36 hours.
The ammonia means something is still not right, but depending on your tap water supply, the pH and pH shifts you are observing might be completely normal. A pressurised water supply in a high-carbonate area will have dissolved CO2 that lowers the pH. After the water is not pressurised anymore (because it is in your tank) the CO2 will off-gas and the pH will rise. A pH of 7.7 can potentially be exactly the expected value.
 
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