My DIY Reactor

Discussion in 'Completed DIY Projects' started by Behold, 23 Dec 2008.

  1. Ed Seeley

    Ed Seeley Member

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    Cheers James for that. I might be able to sort something out with that Wholesaler!! ;)

    I was after clear pipe to have a clear section to the reactor. Unfortunately the clear PVC is very expensive! I think I may just go with the grey 2" PVC I have behind the shed! The fittings I need are only going to come to £20 if I forget about having a clear body to the reactor!
     
  2. BINKSY1973

    BINKSY1973 Member

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  3. Ed Seeley

    Ed Seeley Member

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    That's Binksy. I've seen that and I believe that glue is for Acrylic to acrylic bonds only. I'm going to call a couple of suppliers tomorrow and see what they suggest. I reckon it's going to be a grey sealed reactor in the end though!
     
  4. Behold

    Behold Member

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    Yeah as ed says Clear PVC is not cheap. the main issue is due to the minimum lengths you have to buy it in. if it was bought in 1/2 meters it would be ok.

    To Be honest you could use araldite and a retaining screw or something. As the guys at hendeson's said the araldite will give the airtight waterproof seal. to do my brass fitting i have araldited it as well as cut a thread. the thread keeps it togeather. similar thing if you use a retaining pin of some sort.
     
  5. Ed Seeley

    Ed Seeley Member

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    Good idea Behold, and if it wasn't in a bedroom I might try that! :wideyed: :lol: Just not worth the risk!

    After the major hi-jack of your thread (sorry!), have you got the replacement hosetail yet?
     
  6. Behold

    Behold Member

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    Hey it may be a highjack but at least its on topic!!!!

    Na im going to call them to make sure its posted. its on first class post so likely it only was posted today so im expecting it before newyears.... im eagar now..... it was a good thing i broke it as i would have been impatient and installed it with me not there..... im in all week and weekend.

    I Also understand the not trying my idea.... if i was you i would either buy Clear PVC or not use it if your a bit worried. or use a few glues in a series of rings!! one will hold!!!!
     
  7. jonboy8465

    jonboy8465 Newly Registered

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    Hi all Happy new year. Whats the reason for using the grey pipe? I would like to give this reactor a go for my rena 450 . I have loads of the white waste pipe and fittings in 1 1/2 would this be effected by the c02 and break down?
     
  8. Ed Seeley

    Ed Seeley Member

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    The grey pipe is the standard PVC pressure pipe. It has a much wider range of fittings and is very thick and very resilient in case of any knocks. There is no reason why you can't use other solvent welded pipe as long as you can get the attachments to fit the 12 or 16mm flexible filter pipes on. You might be able to get solvent weld stepped hosetails that will be suitable.
     
  9. JamesM

    JamesM Member

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    Sorry Ed, no luck finding that email yet... I've lost my log in for [H]ardForum too >.<
     
  10. Ed Seeley

    Ed Seeley Member

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    No worries mate and thanks for looking. I think I'm going to just give it a go with araldite and then seal with some silicone too perhaps. Or go with PVC - I haven't decided!!!
     
  11. jonboy8465

    jonboy8465 Newly Registered

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    thanks for the reply. in the past on diy experiments i`ve found that you can use washing machine tails to connect hoses too or in some cases it`s possible to use hozelock garden hose connectors on some of the threaded fittings .
    Just as long as the c02 wont affect the solvent weld type. I`ve read about a venturi loop for reactors could somebody explain how this is fitted and how it works ? many thanks.
     
  12. Ed Seeley

    Ed Seeley Member

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    A venturi loop is when you take a piece of tubing from the bleed valve at the top where gas can collect and fit it to a reducing tee in the tubing before the reactor. As the water from the filter rushes past the tee it creates a low pressure area which sucks the gas collecting at the top back into the water mixing it again and preventing a large build-up of gas there.
     
  13. jonboy8465

    jonboy8465 Newly Registered

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    thanks for the explanation, very simple then? I have read about them but could not work out how they connected. many thanks.
     
  14. JamesM

    JamesM Member

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    Good stuff... post your build when you're ready mate, I'd like to have a go at this myself :)
     
  15. Voo

    Voo Member

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    If you're getting a build up of gas at the top, why do you use a 'T' piece instead of a bend, like at the bottom ?

    I guess there must be a reason as all reactors i've seen have this.
     
  16. Behold

    Behold Member

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    Because it will build in the bend still and will not push out always due to the size of the pipework. the top tee allows for collection in a unified manner. Also any CO2 not disolved may colate here and still disolve.
     
  17. Behold

    Behold Member

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    The grey pipe is soo solid its unbelivable. its good to 16Bar once glued so should be solid. I looked at white pipes and there is the bits there. the washing machine tails are too big i think and could cause an issue.

    TBH it is chunky.... but i feel like i could use it as weapon so im not worried its going to break.....
     
  18. JamesM

    JamesM Member

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    So where are you guys sourcing your parts? And what filters are you using?

    I'm in the market for an FX5 but worry about the auto release of trapped air screwing with the reactor.
     
  19. zed

    zed Member

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    I use an FX5 with my DIY reactor for around 3 weeks and seems to be fine. The FX5 switches off at 1AM to get rid of trapped air by which time the CO2 supply has been off for a few hours.
     
  20. Ed Seeley

    Ed Seeley Member

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    As to the whole 'bend vs tee' thing and the build up of gas; I'm going to build mine with a threaded straight connector at the top and the water entering at the top, like this;

    CO2Reactor-Layout1.jpg

    The CO2 will be injected via a 16mm reducing tee positioned just before the water goes into the reactor. I may also add a an Ehiem intake pips above with a 4mm brass airline valve at the top to bleed the air out.
     

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