This frogbit doesn't have Tiger stripes,.....I would guess lack of Nitrate and Iron.
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Marekm's 200L.
- Thread starter marekm
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This frogbit doesn't have Tiger stripes,.....I would guess lack of Nitrate and Iron.
Hi all,
Lack of nitrogen (N) shows in reduced growth with leaves that are small, as well as pale. Have a look at <"The scientific background to the "Leaf Colour Chart"">.
cheers Darrel
One of the issues with nutrient deficiencies is that if you "cure" one, another is likely to appear via <"Liebig's Law of the minimum">.
Lack of nitrogen (N) shows in reduced growth with leaves that are small, as well as pale. Have a look at <"The scientific background to the "Leaf Colour Chart"">.
cheers Darrel
Rotala and Frogbit look a tad peely wally......as they say in Scotland.😁
update: co2 fluctuations
another small issue I am having lately is having trouble dialing in CO2. Previously I was using the 1 PH drop method - PH value in morning was around 7.0, so I was aiming to achieve a PH of 6.0 during photoperiod. However as I mentioned before, when I added the 2nd filter, the PH did not rise to 7.0, only to ±6.8. It is now slowly getting back to the previous value of 7.0.
But the problem is that it makes the 1ph drop method unreliable if the baseline PH value fluctuates, so I was trying to use a degassed sample, as mentioned in this article on 2hraquarist.
What I did is I placed an air stone in a cup of water and let it run for 15 minutes. To my surprise the PH of the water was pretty high - 7.8, and it was slowly falling in the period of couple of hours until it stabilized at 7.6.
So I am now confused, is it possible that the water after running airstone for 15 minutes contained even less co2 than the baseline according to henrys law (0.6 ppm)? And can I base my co2 level calculation on the stabilized value of 7.6 and assume it would contain 0.6ppm of co2?
another small issue I am having lately is having trouble dialing in CO2. Previously I was using the 1 PH drop method - PH value in morning was around 7.0, so I was aiming to achieve a PH of 6.0 during photoperiod. However as I mentioned before, when I added the 2nd filter, the PH did not rise to 7.0, only to ±6.8. It is now slowly getting back to the previous value of 7.0.
But the problem is that it makes the 1ph drop method unreliable if the baseline PH value fluctuates, so I was trying to use a degassed sample, as mentioned in this article on 2hraquarist.
What I did is I placed an air stone in a cup of water and let it run for 15 minutes. To my surprise the PH of the water was pretty high - 7.8, and it was slowly falling in the period of couple of hours until it stabilized at 7.6.
So I am now confused, is it possible that the water after running airstone for 15 minutes contained even less co2 than the baseline according to henrys law (0.6 ppm)? And can I base my co2 level calculation on the stabilized value of 7.6 and assume it would contain 0.6ppm of co2?
I have increased the co2 injection so that the PH drops to 6.0 during photoperiod as opposed to 6.3. During night/morning it raises to around 6.9/7.0.
I think the drop checker is starting to get a bit too yellow so I am thinking to back up a little bit to target ±6.1, but fish/shrimp seem to be fine.
I have noticed nice 'pearling' that was definitely not apparent before, especially on rotala and echinodorus, so seems like the plants are enjoying the change. Unfortunately the hair algae and BBA seem to be enjoying the frequent changes as well, but I am hoping that I need to dial in the CO2 just a little bit and then everything should be set, so I can finally let the tank stabilize.
I think the drop checker is starting to get a bit too yellow so I am thinking to back up a little bit to target ±6.1, but fish/shrimp seem to be fine.
I have noticed nice 'pearling' that was definitely not apparent before, especially on rotala and echinodorus, so seems like the plants are enjoying the change. Unfortunately the hair algae and BBA seem to be enjoying the frequent changes as well, but I am hoping that I need to dial in the CO2 just a little bit and then everything should be set, so I can finally let the tank stabilize.
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update: the tank is continuing to make steady improvements. Today I have trimmed the rotala and I was impressed by the health, it is finally looking good all the way to the roots, not just the top parts. I was a bit sad to discard the bottom parts, considering how healthy they look.
I did a full PH profile of the tank:
a cup of aquarium water after 48hrs: 7.8
morning before co2 injection starts: 7.0
min. PH during co2 injection (typically after ±4 hours): 6.05
That seems to be in line with the recommendation of 1 ph drop during co2 injection / 1.7 ph drop of fully degassed water.
I still find the dropchecker color to be a bit yellow, but the fish/shrimp are doing fine, no signs of stress.
With the co2 finally dialed in, I am also confident that the fertilization is dialed in as well, so I think I am finally at the point where I can let the tank stabilize.
Other minor updates:
Seems like the floating plants did not enjoy the strong water flow, I have placed them in a tubing a couple of days ago so that they stay at one place, and I think I can immediately see improvements in growth rate.
The ludwigia seem to be doing much better as well, I think it was lack of co2 levels that caused the stunted growth. There are still some plants that are not doing as I would expect (monte carlo and bacopa purple) and there is still hair algae mainly on crypts, but it is getting better.
I am trying to let a new cup of monte carlo to adapt/transform in a cup, that way I can place it closer to light.
There is also one ammania bonsai plant, that is growing very slowly and struggling for months now, but it refuses to die, I am wondering if it will eventually make it or algae will kill it 🙂
I did a full PH profile of the tank:
a cup of aquarium water after 48hrs: 7.8
morning before co2 injection starts: 7.0
min. PH during co2 injection (typically after ±4 hours): 6.05
That seems to be in line with the recommendation of 1 ph drop during co2 injection / 1.7 ph drop of fully degassed water.
I still find the dropchecker color to be a bit yellow, but the fish/shrimp are doing fine, no signs of stress.
With the co2 finally dialed in, I am also confident that the fertilization is dialed in as well, so I think I am finally at the point where I can let the tank stabilize.
Other minor updates:
Seems like the floating plants did not enjoy the strong water flow, I have placed them in a tubing a couple of days ago so that they stay at one place, and I think I can immediately see improvements in growth rate.
The ludwigia seem to be doing much better as well, I think it was lack of co2 levels that caused the stunted growth. There are still some plants that are not doing as I would expect (monte carlo and bacopa purple) and there is still hair algae mainly on crypts, but it is getting better.
I am trying to let a new cup of monte carlo to adapt/transform in a cup, that way I can place it closer to light.
There is also one ammania bonsai plant, that is growing very slowly and struggling for months now, but it refuses to die, I am wondering if it will eventually make it or algae will kill it 🙂
Attachments
