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Internal UV Filter Some Benefits - Jury is still Out!!

ian_m said:
Because the algae has to be in the water column before the UV will touch it.
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Yes, I am aware of that. But the UV may prevent any future spores settling on glass and plants. Water changes may help some, but you can't be doing continuous water changes. The UV works 24/7.

ian_m said:
The UV light will be much stronger than the spores will meet in nature. But it does require sufficient "dwell time" for the UV to work, which the cheap UV units do not provide.
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Isn't the dwell time determined by the powerhead to which they are connected? The UV sterilizer is just a unit with a bulb, then you connect it to a device that pushes water through it so it's up to the user to set it up correctly.
 
sciencefiction said:
Isn't the dwell time determined by the powerhead to which they are connected? The UV sterilizer is just a unit with a bulb, then you connect it to a device that pushes water through it so it's up to the user to set it up correctly
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Yes, but when used in a filter, the flow rates past the UV, so that the filter is filtering, is far too short to actually do anything. But really you shouldn't be getting the spores in the first place, you are trying to fix the symptoms rather than providing a cure.
 
ian_m said:
Yes, but when used in a filter, the flow rates past the UV, so that the filter is filtering, is far too short to actually do anything. But really you shouldn't be getting the spores in the first place, you are trying to fix the symptoms rather than providing a cure.
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The filter I am using is just for this purpose. It's basically a powerhead pulling through a sponge at the bottom. It always had slow flow rate which was the reason I used it for the UV. I didn't install it for algae purposes but because I had the UV already and it was easy to connect to that filter.
The algae boomed when I removed all plants from the substrate at some stage and disturbed the tank a lot in the process. I actually needed that algae because I was growing a baby otto at the time. And right now I am trying to get algae in another tank so not all of us thrive to get sparkling tanks. What I am saying is that the UV seemed to clear the tank of the algae that was there. If you say it doesn't work, then the algae probably just ran its course itself. I can't know for sure. I am just sharing what I experienced.
 
I have had an algae bloom, couple of days/weeks after when I did a major replanting and "combing" of substrate to get the sand back underneath the Fluval substrate. Bloom was slight green algae on the glass but mainly a large "dump" of brown diatoms on everything. Just all went away by itself with possible help from Ottos scoffing the diatoms, but no UV was necessary.
 
ian_m said:
Yes UV does, but only if algae is in the water column and if the water is flowing slow enough.
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Yes. I know that very well. But you guys are saying even if setup correctly it won't work on anything bar Green water algae. I don't know how the algae spores move around the tank, I am guessing with the help of the flow but surely they end up in the water column too, or enough of them at least.
Maybe someone else that has UV in their tanks can give some input too.
 
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sciencefiction said:
But you guys are saying even if setup correctly it won't work on anything bar Green water algae. I don't know how the algae spores move around the tank, I am guessing with the help of the flow but surely they end up in the water column too, or enough of them at least
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http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/...y-good-for-combating-algae.35000/#post-374878
As explained here, spores settle out and don't get into the water column.

And along with UV dwell time usually not being long enough to kill spores, means spores survive.

Though on saying that, my local fish shop uses UV units (big v2ctron units, some even on their own pumped loop) on their open top and planted tanks. With out they suffer algae. They suspect it is all the "debris" and "detritus" carried in by customers, as well the public dipping their hands in the open top tanks causes the algae issues.
 
sciencefiction said:
Where do they come from before they settle instantly?
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My understanding is algae produces spore under two circumstance that you encounter in an aquarium, if the going gets tough the algae turns to spores to ride out the tough times and be ready for that time you have a "CO2 disaster" and if the going is good ie your "CO2 disaster" they massively divide and produce spores to spread. The spores settling is why algae appears in glass, wood, stones, plants etc.
 
Edvet said:
which fluid and reagent are you using?
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Hi Edvet, I have two types, one is a JBL reagent which I can add water at 4dkh from a shop bought bottle. The other type of reagent is a pre mixed solution from Aqua Essentials which you just add straight in to the drop checker. Currently I am using the JBL reagent in both drop checkers.

Why do you ask?

Cheers,

Steve.
 
Hi all,

Well I seem to have set the cat amongst the pigeons here, but I think the debate is healthy and interesting, and pretty informative even though there are differing opinions. After reading all the posts I am still weighing it up, or at least I was! I have ordered the UV 9 watt internal filter, which looks a pretty good build spec, see link on first page. Although it does state 500 litres per hour which flies in the face of the apparent 'Dwell Time' for the UV to have a reasonable effect on the water flowing through it. I might have to try reducing the flow through the filter so the water stays longer in contact with the UV.

However, I thought what the heck, even if the UV does not sort out the diatomous alge, at least there will be some additional filtration and increase flow around the tank.

I suppose if it works I will not really know whether it was the UV or the increased flow. Pity there isn't an 'on off' switch, still until I try it I won't know for sure. I have read so much stuff now on the net about UV reducing the 'Redox Potential' which apparently is a good thing.

The pictures below are not from my tank but it gives you an idea of what it looks like, at this stage it is not possible to brush or siphon off.

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT0uzdx4_JiKGjT4LA3CAC_v9OpobFAYGZTC6FE9R1bS8bWe6_s.jpg

fw_waste_sabrina.JPG

This picture probably shows it best what it gets like.

hairgrass.jpg

I know Clive will tear his hair out when he reads this but I dug out all my test kits😱 from the garage and did some measurements.

PH using Drops kit 7.0
PH using a PH Pen 6.90
PH reading off a PH Electrode in the tank 6.75 at lights on
KH 1.0
GH 0.0
Ammonia zero
Nitrite zero
Nitrate over 100 parts per ml - This caused by adding the KNO3 as per the EI Dosing regime.

Some might say I have great tap water, it comes out at zero KH and zero GH, yet the PH is 7.0 which doesn't compute either, so the GH and the KH in my tank is really low. I ned to find a safe way to buffer it up I think?

I bought a TDS meter recently and found the following:

TDS straight from the cold water tap = 90 ppm
TDS water coming out of my HMA Filter = 120 ppm (how does that work) I thought HMA Filters were supposed to filter dissolved solids out of the water not add them?
TDS in the tank = 200 ppm (Which goes up to 300 ppm straight after I have added the CSM+ Trace which I suppose is to be expected.

Any views, comments, suggestions or recommendations based on all of the above very gratefully received.

On another note, I have just added two L - Plecs mini chocolate type to add to the grazing crew, and I never thought I would say this, two Zebra snails! I put the snails in yesterday and the rock I sat them on is absolutely spotless this morning.

So the debate goes on, and it is really on the subject of 'to UV or not to UV? That is the question😀

Cheers,

Steve
 
Here are some actual photographs of what it looks like right now in my tank:arghh: Photo quality not brilliant, my son got his camera back!

DSC02387_zps436c8df3.jpg

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DSC02380_zpsb54d8af9.jpg

The slimy stuff is in the middle of the Monte Carlos.
DSC02379_zps8539b0f5.jpg

DSC02378_zps277d9a88.jpg

DSC02377_zps457c2548.jpg

This is the worst, the Staurgyrene is suffering like mad.
DSC02375_zps567e26be.jpg

The Eleocharis seems to trap it like debris in the wind.
DSC02374_zps9eab09eb.jpg

DSC02373_zpscc6f2c92.jpg

DSC02371_zps95f68b90.jpg

DSC02372_zps33f2b9da.jpg

The only good news is my discus are now feeding really well, coincidence?

Come on you Algae Warriors, or as the yanks say, 'Let's kick some Brown Algae Butt!!

Cheers,

Steve.
 
REDSTEVEO said:
I can't pump any more Co2 in from the cylinder because the two drop checkers are edging towards lemon yellow
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That's why i asked. Co2 is hard to measure, the 4KH dropchecker should be correct, other fluids (some evensay use tankwater)are less reliable. Have you tried more CO2? are the fish reacting if you increase the levels?
 
REDSTEVEO said:
PH using Drops kit 7.0
PH using a PH Pen 6.90
PH reading off a PH Electrode in the tank 6.75 at lights on
KH 1.0
GH 0.0

Some might say I have great tap water, it comes out at zero KH and zero GH, yet the PH is 7.0 which doesn't compute either, so the GH and the KH in my tank is really low. I ned to find a safe way to buffer it up I think?

I bought a TDS meter recently and found the following:

TDS straight from the cold water tap = 90 ppm
Click to expand...

Having a KH and GH of zero out the tap with a pH of 7 and a TDS count of 90 would seem to suggest the water is already loaded with buffers to raise the pH back up to 7 to make it safe for plumbing infrastructure (copper pipe) as neat RO (0KH 0GH 0TDS) is supposed to have a pH of 6.5 and would eat the pipes. There's probably other things making up that TDS like chlorine and chloramines so it's not all buffers.

From experience the pH buffers will be eaten over the course of a few days in tank so that at the end of the week your perceived injection pH profile measured with the probe will have shifted (added to tank biological influences this messes with co2 controllers big time if that's how co2 were being controlled).

I use BeeShrimpGH+ to remineralise RO/DI (0TDS) for my tank and so don't add any KH (presumed zero in tank). Your tap has 0KH but in the tank it's 1, are you adding any carbonates to do this or is it just how it ends up in the tank, if it's just how it ends up in the tank then likely as far as co2 is concerned it's probably still zero.

So at zero KH I can tell you straight away that if your pH is at 6.75 at lights on then there is no way you are adding enough co2, so I presume this is a mistake and you meant to say pH 5.75 at lights on. From experience co2 injecting (100% dissolution, no free bubbles) 0KH aerated water that has a pre injection pH of 6.7 requires a drop to around pH5.4 to turn the drop checker green/yellow, taking it down to 5.3 for me turns it strongly yellow and coincides with a fish hypercapnea event, evident with fish surface breathing and shrimps hanging on the waterline sponge above my Airstone and snails making a quick exit over the side of the tank (all gone now). Nerites don't last very long in this type of environment, usually a hole will first appear at the terminal point of the shell twist along with ragged edges on the shell around the opening.

With regards to UV I have no idea of the efficacy of mine on dealing with algae, it's on 24/7 and is an Aqua Medic Helix Max 9W inline unit that has about 300L/hr of flow going through it at any one time, it dealt extremely well with sorting out the white spot the fish had before they went in the tank and it's never returned since, that was 9 months ago so the bulb is probably on its last legs or already past delivering effective UV against anything.

🙂
 
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