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Inflow ball valve position question

castle

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19 Dec 2015
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Hopefully this image helps, the outflow from the aquarium to the pump has a T section where one pipe goes to the pump, the other goes to the drain. After the T both pipes have ball valves to turn off their flow. The drain would be gravity fed, with the pump off.

Have I missed anything here?

IMG_5916.jpeg
 
Sorry yes, I’m not a plumber so don’t know the correct flow diagram; i tried to flatten a 3D plan 😅 my question is about having the drain valve closed with the pump valve open would the pump create a vacuum/pressure off the T to the valve in the drain? Or am I overthinking it 👍

Your diagram is simplified and correct 😊
 
I would say you’re overthinking it. There may be some vacuum effect to the left of the T-piece but not at a magnitude even close to exceeding what the valve can handle.

In any event all it can do is suck the ball valve more “closed”.

My canister has a reactor with 3 ball valves that allow me to shut off water to the reactor so I can remove and clean it. During this cleaning time I simply turn closed the two valves to the reactor and fully open the other - letting my canister run while I clean.

Point if this: I’ve never had an issue with ball valves and rerouting water.
 
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One thing to take into account is cleaning the pipe work.

Every couple of years/months/weeks you may want to be able to completely take out the pipe work for a yearly/monthly/weekly thorough cleaning. Thus having some way of getting all the water out of the pipework and getting the pipe work apart easily will make this job a lot easier. Of course you could design it to be cleanable/brush'able in place.

I have seen many people assemble and glue pipe work in place, looks wonderful and is 100% leak proof, but once glued was impossible to remove from the tank for cleaning.
 
@ian_m i didn’t think of that, and it makes sense. I’ll add one this weekend - annoyingly wasted a bit of pipe but totally right.
 
Great point with regards to cleaning.

If it helps I used irrigation fittings that screw together to construct my reactor piping. So it’s quite easy to remove, take apart and clean as needed.

Perhaps you can find something similar.

1b3b055508671e3a2db4b8e16ea8cb29.jpg
 
The pipework for the most part is behind 1000kg+ aquarium, so it’s a bit of a mare to ever get behind should it fail.

I’ve planned now to add a “rodding” point at the top of the inflow so I can rod down to the T . For sanity I will also add another rodding point after the valve for the drain and I will be able to rod back up from the exit to the drain to in a worst case scenario.

After going to all this length, I should have sumped it.
 
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