megwattscreative
Moderator
Hi all, wondering if the bright minds of UKAPS can help me narrow down the causes of some bacterial illness issues in my first tank. It's all documented in my journal if you'd like more detail.
I had some bacterial issues in my tank a few months ago after introducing new fish without quarantining. The fin rot and white spot cleared up after adding more filtration, more plants and a treatment with ESHA Exit and ESHA 2000. However, some corydoras still showed signs of bacterial illness months later (symptoms included white pallor on scales, sand sticking to fins/barbells, one Cory not regrowing fins). The most effected cory eventually died on day 2 of a second retreatment with Esha 2000, however it's a week on now and the rest all seem fully recovered.
This is what I've changed to (theoretically) encourage recovery:
-mass pruning of dead/melting plants (floating, emergent, submerged)
I am going to monitor plant growth (hooray for the duckweed index) before adding ferts back, however I am going to need to add ferts eventually.
I'd also like to go back to adding tannins with each water change. Here are my queries:
1. What do you think helped most/made the biggest change to bacteria?
2. Can you see any issues with lots of old/almost fully decaying leaves?
3. Could the ferts have contributed to the water quality in terms of bacteria?
4. Any thoughts on initial causes?
Looking forward, I have some questions:
5. when you add tannins, do you remove old leaves?
6. Do the leaves you add have to be totally brown and dry? I have been adding fallen leaves in clumps from an oak tree that have been blown off in storms, and some off them are still a little green.
7. Shall I keep up 50% weekly water changes? I usually do a 30% change, however I think 50% may be more reliable.
8. Shall I buy a new air pump for the matten filter? I'm currently using a secondhand eheim 200, however I'm pretty sure one of the tube outputs has failed which may have contributed to the decrease in water quality. It was just attached to an airstone floating in the back of the mattenfilter. I'm not fully clear on how airpumps work, or how to get the best out of mine!
9. Would treating planaria help? I've bought a trap, but am hesitant to use it right now and add more food to the system.
Thank you for any advice or thoughts - it's all very welcome. I'd love to learn from this and avoid any future issues.
I had some bacterial issues in my tank a few months ago after introducing new fish without quarantining. The fin rot and white spot cleared up after adding more filtration, more plants and a treatment with ESHA Exit and ESHA 2000. However, some corydoras still showed signs of bacterial illness months later (symptoms included white pallor on scales, sand sticking to fins/barbells, one Cory not regrowing fins). The most effected cory eventually died on day 2 of a second retreatment with Esha 2000, however it's a week on now and the rest all seem fully recovered.
This is what I've changed to (theoretically) encourage recovery:
-mass pruning of dead/melting plants (floating, emergent, submerged)
- standard softwater dose of Esha 2000
- increasing filter turnover
- repositioning hardscape and filters to increase surface disturbance
- 50% water changes without adding my usual ferts (solufeed 2:4:1, chelated iron)
- reducing feeding regimen to prevent build up of excess food (I know overfeeding just because they're begging is silly, but I grew up with @dw1305's truly demonic cat.. I'm unlearning the marginally safer path of least resistance)
- vacuuming up any excess food (and consequently some leaf litter mulm/snail droppings)
- taking out any extremely elderly magnolia/oak/beech leaves (there were a LOT in there)
- removing some dripwall tubing that was serving no purpose - thank you @ScareCrow for the idea.
I am going to monitor plant growth (hooray for the duckweed index) before adding ferts back, however I am going to need to add ferts eventually.
I'd also like to go back to adding tannins with each water change. Here are my queries:
1. What do you think helped most/made the biggest change to bacteria?
2. Can you see any issues with lots of old/almost fully decaying leaves?
3. Could the ferts have contributed to the water quality in terms of bacteria?
4. Any thoughts on initial causes?
Looking forward, I have some questions:
5. when you add tannins, do you remove old leaves?
6. Do the leaves you add have to be totally brown and dry? I have been adding fallen leaves in clumps from an oak tree that have been blown off in storms, and some off them are still a little green.
7. Shall I keep up 50% weekly water changes? I usually do a 30% change, however I think 50% may be more reliable.
8. Shall I buy a new air pump for the matten filter? I'm currently using a secondhand eheim 200, however I'm pretty sure one of the tube outputs has failed which may have contributed to the decrease in water quality. It was just attached to an airstone floating in the back of the mattenfilter. I'm not fully clear on how airpumps work, or how to get the best out of mine!
9. Would treating planaria help? I've bought a trap, but am hesitant to use it right now and add more food to the system.
Thank you for any advice or thoughts - it's all very welcome. I'd love to learn from this and avoid any future issues.
