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Homing In On Cyanobacteria (aka 'BGA')

jaypeecee

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Joined
21 Jan 2015
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Location
Bracknell
Hi Everyone,

As some of you may know, I took an interest in Cyanobacteria some time ago*. Specifically, how do we keep this Blue-Green Menace under control? Preferably, eliminated. I'm finally homing in on a possible answer. There are, in fact, a few options but some are more workable/practical than others. Within the next few days, I'll finalize what I think is the best option and explain further. There is one important caveat that I'll draw to everyone's attention. And that is that I am not an expert in this field, merely a hobbyist who had grown weary of seeing Cyano in any of my tanks.

* please see Cyanobacteria Identification - At Last!

To be continued...

JPC
 
Hi Folks,

I figured that it was (once again) time to add to this thread, which I see as a 'Work In Progress'. I ask that anyone interested views it in this light.

Over the last few months, I have carried out a few experiments to see if it's possible to keep Cyanobacteria (aka BGA) under control, nay, eliminated. Coupled with this, I have read a good many scientific papers to improve my understanding of the factors that promote Cyano. To date, I have identified the following as being important (in no particular order):

[1] Water pH

[2] Water hardness

[3] Phosphate

[4] Iron (and Oxidative Stress)

[5] Total Organic Carbon/Dissolved Organic Matter

I still think it's possible to prevent and eliminate Cyano from our tanks. Indeed, I have done just that in one of my tanks. I'll provide a link.

To be continued...

JPC
 
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Hi Folks,

I figured that it was high time for me to add to this thread, which I'm hoping to approach as a 'Work In Progress'. I ask that anyone interested views it in this light.

Having pulled together and studied nine documents, mostly scientific papers, I suggest the critical nutrient to be managed in our tanks to keep Cyanobacteria (aka BGA) under control is - iron. As Cyano require light for photosynthesis, they are most prevalent in the water column. So, logically, it makes sense to supply iron from the substrate for the rooted plants. Obviously, iron is not the only element/nutrient/fert required by Cyano. Far from it. But, it seems to be what would be called the Limiting Nutrient. But, if we cannot add iron to the water column, then what about Epiphytes? Well, I have a tank in which I have healthy Java Ferns and I dose closely-monitored iron and there is no Cyano.

To be continued...

JPC
I have had this bacteria and started adding iron and flourish excel too. I added an air diffuser because the circulation was slow and this cleared 80% of it over night
 
I have had this bacteria and started adding iron and flourish excel too. I added an air diffuser because the circulation was slow and this cleared 80% of it over night
Hi @Sprayman60

Iron addition would likely have the effect of promoting Cyano. But, Flourish Excel is probably what helped to eliminate the Cyano. Flourish Excel is marketed as 'Liquid Carbon' but is generally out of favour with many UKAPS members if used for its intended purpose.

JPC
 
Hi JPC,
Looking forward to hearing your conclusions. I've had 4 previous tanks over the years and never experienced BGA but it has become my nemesis with my latest tank!! For what it's worth I'll add my amateur observations to the mix....would love to hear your thoughts!
150 lit tank set up Jan 2019 with 100% tap water. Quickly found out it was too hard (21 GH, 15 KH and high pH 8.2 and 25 mg/l NO3), although plants seemed to grow well! Replaced half the water with RO to get 7GH, 6KH, pH 7.4-7.6) before adding livestock. Used 50/50 tap water/RO (non-mineralised) for water changes. Plants initially grew really well but started to get bad BGA problems by the end of the first year. Water test (dipsticks) gave NO3 at 0-10 mg/l, 0 mg/l phosphate, 7-14 GH, 4 KH, pH 6.8-7. Tried more regular water changes and BGA got worse - covering everything, smelling strongly and visibly reforming and growing within hrs of meticulously cleaning the tank! Started using 50/50 mineralised RO mixed with tap water and raised GH to 14, KH to 6-7 and pH to 7.2 - 7.4. BGA much improved but not totally gone. Bought some new bogwood which stained the water brown and algae visibly shrunk and reduced. Sadly, it grew again once the wood aged and staining stopped. 2 yrs after initial set up decided my filter needed an upgrade so replaced with stronger flow model - this helped greatly and I started feeding plants with occasional root tabs and some solubles, added some volcanic rock substrate to the gravel and I thought I had finally cracked it...BGA was minimal and hard to find! Now 3 yrs after set up I am seeing problems again, although this time the BGA is a brown colour and growing more slowly but otherwise the same as before (peels off in sheets). Photo attached. Water is testing as 14GH, 6-10KH, pH 7.4, 5 mg/l N03, 0 mg/lit phosphate. I haven't been as good with water change frequency of late, nor have I used plant feed for a few months as didn't want to feed the BGA but plants look a bit pale. Any thoughts welcomed on next steps!?
 

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Hi @Stella

Welcome to UKAPS!

Please tell us about your aquarium lighting. What are you using? How long is the lighting on for (this is known as the photoperiod)? What is the brightness set to?

JPC
 
Your nitrates and phosphates are too low. How do you fertilise?
Thanks Hypnogogia...I thought that might be the case, although a while back my nitrates had increased to 40 mg/l (but phosphate was only 0.25 mg/l) as I was late on a water change and the algae was no better. My fertilising has been a bit sporadic. I was using some root tabs and some soluble feed (Potassium nitrate, Magnesium sulphate, Potassium phosphate) but I ran out of root tabs a couple of months ago and haven't bought more yet. What levels of nitrate and phosphate would you recommend?
 
Hi @Stella

Welcome to UKAPS!

Please tell us about your aquarium lighting. What are you using? How long is the lighting on for (this is known as the photoperiod)? What is the brightness set to?

JPC

Hi JPC,
I have 2 x 25W fluorescent Aquagrow tubes run for 10.5hrs/day. Same ones used for life of tank.
 
Hi @Stella

Thanks for the lighting information. Unfortunately, being fluorescent lights, it isn't easy to adjust brightness. But, I'd be tempted to reduce the photoperiod from 10.5 h/day to 7 h/day. But, this is only one factor in many.

It's difficult to know where to start. May I suggest that you read the following thread from beginning to end? That will give you an idea of the stages that you may need to go through. Then, come back with your comments/questions.


JPC
 
Hi @Stella

Please advise which ferts you are currently using and their dosage (how much and how often). Whilst some aquarists choose not to use test kits, I don't fall into that category. So, please let us know which test kits you are using (if any) and let us have current readings. You mentioned test strips previously but these are not reliable.

BTW, are you using CO2 injection?

JPC
 
Hi Everyone,

I was recently in discussion with @Happi. We were discussing how the Total Nitrogen : Total Phosphorus ratio could play a part in the growth of Cyanobacteria. I am not questioning for one moment the success of the experiments conducted by @Happi. But I also discovered a paper that states "TP alone was a much better predictor of both total and relative cyanobacterial biomass than TN or the ratio of TN : TP. (Total Nitrogen : Total Phosphorus). For anyone interested, please refer to the following:


Also, the section entitled 'Carbon and Cyanobacteria' at the bottom of Page 429 is of interest.

JPC
 
Hi Folks,

I started this thread on 1 Jan 2022 specifically to act as a central resource where we can bring together our collective knowledge about Cyanobacteria. Waiting in the wings at the moment, I have various bits 'n' pieces that I hope to add soon. If anyone has a specific Cyanobacteria (aka BGA) problem for which immediate help is required, please start a new, separate thread.

I hope what I'm suggesting is agreeable to everyone.

JPC ;)
 
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Any additional thoughts on this @jaypeecee

For what it's worth I smelt cyano a couple of times in a tank I completely rescaped back in July, but it eventually dissipated so I ignored it - however I now note pretty obvious green slim in front sand substrate - only visible from front, not on surface of substrate and no obvious smell.

Anecdotal thoughts:
With very few exceptions I have kept my tanks in very hard water and have never experienced cyanobacteria;
This is my first time in consistently amending my water with RO and the first time I've seen cyanobacteria;
The front sand substrate was probably OD with JBL Fereopol Root (perhaps ties in to your comment on iron);
While finding RO sweet spot I noticed the cyanobacteria smell mostly in the days after heavier RO use i.e. softer water seemed to exhaserbate it;
I cannot disregard light as I upgraded to a WRGB2 Pro, light has however been reduced for some time and I may reduce further;
Co2 injection, flow and light now more aligned and despite the visible cyanobacteria at front sand section it has not progressed further from the initial smell months ago;
I'm currently [last four days] using 5ml 6% H2O2 injected directly into the effected substrate, little bit in multiple sections (injected deeply with fine non-sharp needle) every morning, has not impacted filter and all inhabitants snails, shrimp and fish are fine - this includes shrimp and snails subsequently grazing over effected area (which will bubble) - this does seem to be clearing the treated areas but too early to tell;
I also had BBA issues in this tank, prior to me noting the visible BGA, that seem to be subsiding now - part of my thought process on BBA was the classic reduce organic matter, maintaince, good CO2 distribution and flow, and frequent large water changes, however I can't help but think all of these also clear Ammonia even if at unmeasurable levels, therefore I went all out NO Ammonia which included all of these things plus morning and night doses of Seachem Amguard;
I also dose 20ml Algexit (Salicylic acid) once weekly - I have read up on this as I know you have. I have also used it previously to no effect - however whether it is different parameters in my tank this time or the other factors I saw clumps of [black] BBA cleaving off into the water column days after treatment [I do not believe this is BBA life cycle as I've always suffered BBA in this tank under different set ups and never observed similar, though I have had visible die off (pink/white) only for it to later return. Historically BBA only ever went when the tank was left to it's own devices, low tech, infrequent water changes no dosing - ran fine like that albeit with limited plant Sp. doing well [CO2 no doubt playing a part here];
I tried both Excel and APT Fix (latter would be my preference when it comes to livestock) but neither had a meaningful effect though I would not OD them and am not comfortable using them at all TBH;
Dosing is probably EI+ I tried reducing but it didn't help BBA and plants did worse;

I have EVERYTHING usually used for BGA at my disposal, however I am reluctant to dose the water column with many of them so will be limiting my efforts to treating effected area only at the moment.

I'll keep you posted but just wondered if you had any additional thoughts.

Mat
 
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